North American Pinot Dinner

Wrapped in foil and served double-blind, these North American Pinots had to stand on their feet without the benefit of the halo of a specific Pinot cult influencing the group. Great way to see what they had to offer. And they offered plenty.

fresh ricotta dumplings on tomato
eggplant fondue with spinach and crisp prosciutto
foie gras torchon with port poached figs
pork rillettes with Dijon potato salad
veal terrine
duck liver parfait
prosciutto with grilled pear and blue whipped cream

• 2007 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Tasted double-blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. Nose has cherries, baking spices and white flowers, but there's also an unpleasant wood glue overtone as well. Fruit is interestingly lush, but a bit of extra oak in the mouth took this down a few notches for me too.

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• 2007 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Old Vines 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Tasted double-blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. This was a new experience for me in American Pinot in terms of matching more Burgundian profiles. Lots of dill on the nose, along with a savoriness that begs a sip. Very supple mouthfeel, no heat, but just a bit flabby and juicy, keeping this from the next level. That said, the finish has an exciting amount of minerality, conjuring an iron nail or the taste of a bloody lip. This won wine of the night; I had it tied for #3.

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• 2008 Aubert Pinot Noir UV Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Tasted double-blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. Nose like a rusty nail, a little hot, cherry cola in the mouth; a little greenness on a finish that was otherwise impressive in its length.

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with butter poached pears, almond mushroom wild rice, foie gras, parsnip crisps and Port sauce

• 2005 Auteur Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard 86 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  Tasted double-blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. On the nose, dill flower aromas bordered on sulfur-laden, and in the mouth, aside from slightly fat fruit, there was a strange malty vanilla overtone and a strange greenness on the finish. Not sure if the flaw was in this bottle or the wine in general. Unanimously last.

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• 2005 Kistler Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Tasted double-blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. Relatively straight ahead nose with some rose perfume and some baking spices. In the mouth, very silky blue fruit, nice balance overall. Although a bit sweet, I thought this was underrated by the larger group based on the comments.

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• 2006 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Tasted double-blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. This was very easy to enjoy. Baking spices, cherry, and *something else* on the nose, very supple mouthfeel, nice, cool fruits, but it was driving me crazy because I couldn't nail the *something else* flavor element that made it distinctive - until I realized - root beer. Root beer stands in for cola in the typical Pinot profile and makes this something very enjoyable, if a bit simple.

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• 2006 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir Ten 90 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  Tasted blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. I brought this and double decanted four hours before the dinner, leaving the bottle open until going to the restaurant. The double decant took care of some of the excess heat it displayed on the pop, no doubt. Nose includes soy and clove, and in the mouth this had more blackberry tones than many of the others at the dinner. Finish splays out a little bit, though - not quite as focused as those of a few of the other wines at this dinner. But this was tied for my third favorite out of nine on the night.

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• 2005 Marcassin Pinot Noir Blue-Slide Ridge Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Tasted double-blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. On the nose, cherry, mushroom, sage and a bit of dusty gravel. In the mouth, berries and soy, with anise, clove and more rocks. Superb length on the finish, which has hints of smoke. My WOTN by a good measure, the group's #2. The three others who also had this as #1 were Burgundy collectors.

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• 2003 Marcassin Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Tasted double-blind as part of a North American Pinot dinner. This had a very interesting nose, with lilac florals on the nose and multiple layers of berry. In the mouth, generous weight and lots of mushroom and earth that adds stuffing without flab. A bit of heat holds this back just a little, but the finish is smoky and sexy. My #2 of the night out of nine and very close to the next point up.

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bourbon chestnut ice cream and cranberry turnover

• 2002 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru 92 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  This was delicious as always, but just a bit more delicate or less open than my preference. Lots of pineapple and pear, delicious, good acid to hold it upright.

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• 2005 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru 93 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  This was more showy than the 2002 drank alongside, with huge amounts of apricot and a viscosity that rivaled the Sauternes drank next. Acidity keeps this from getting fat but it's voluptuous. Delicious.

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• 1986 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  This bottle seemed to be dimming a bit, with some metallic hints, but some pineapple, a touch of papaya and lots of buttery apple.

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In all, a terrific night, with incredible cuisine, a drop-in from Ris herself, some eye opening Pinot experiences and some palate-affirming pours.