Russell's Pebbles Fizz Offline II

A huge thanks to Russell for his generosity in providing the wines for this. A remarkably consistent group, albeit of varying style. Good luck to Bryan and Ian, now silf-like shadows of their former selves - watch out Keith!

• 2002 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Vieilles Vignes de Chardonnay

  France, Champagne

  En magnum. Quite a tight, chalky nose, opening up to honey and accacia. Smooth, rounded and quite low acid attack initially following through to a chalky minerality with decent acidity starting to come through. ***1/2

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• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ay La Côte Faron

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Slightly fuller gold than the Carelles. Again, a rich, full nose, less orange and spice than the Carelles. Full on the palate, some spice. Lots upfront here but it drops away a bit though this seems to resolve itself with more air. A touch of Cointreau startingvto show on the nose after a while. Red-fruited and full. ***1/2

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• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Les Carelles

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Light to mid gold. More here than the Cote Faron. Spicy nose, very gingery, then orange rind dominating with a touch of coffee bean. More zingy, spicier and longer. Zippier. Interesting. A food wine. ****

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• 2000 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  En magnum. Some honeysuckle and passionfruit on the nose but seems less open and expressive than the 02. Slightly reductive. Quite clipped through the middle and finish, though this does come back and lengthen with air. ***1/2

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• 2002 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  En magnum. Quite a light, fresh and slightly floral nose. Fresh, quite linear. Mmmm, really lovely nose, floral, becoming mode distinctly honeysuckle. Smoother and rounder and prettier on the attack but also longer with more in reserve than the 2000. ***(*)

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• 1996 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut

  France, Champagne

  En magnum. Floral, rounded, slightly honeyed nose. Smooth, rounded, good structure. This promises well, plenty in reserve. ***(*)

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• 1998 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut

  France, Champagne

  En magnum. Quite a light, fragrant, open, floral nose. Very approachable. Rounded, gingery spice. Almost a little too easy. Not quite as poised as previous, normal bottles, of this. ***1/2

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• 1992 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  En magnum. Deep straw. Lovely spicy nose. Ginger. Comous but really quite engaging. Long. Reasonably complex and pretty much a point. Impressive for the year and also in its own right. ****

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• 1993 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  En magnum. Mid straw. A lot fresher, crisper and cleaner on the nose. Same family style there though. Really quite spicey and gingery. Needs a while longer, but again, very good. ***(*)

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• 1999 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  En magum. Mid straw. More muted. Far cleaner and fresher. Not showing the spice and ginger of the other two. Restrained and relatively linear but hinting at the weight and richness to come. **(**)

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For me, the 92 Vilmart, 96 Roederer and Selosse Carelles were the picks for quality and interest but all the wines showed well and were neck and neck.