London Italian Blowout.. 24 Tn's:

London
Tasted Friday, November 5, 2004 by jamiekutch with 1,671 views

Introduction

After spending the afternoon at Windsor castle and having a light lunch of traditional English fare, (fish and chips & English pie) Kristen and I made our way on the London tube to a Tuscan restaurant called Caldesi @ 15 Marybone Lane, London W1. The night was a special one and fireworks were plentiful as Londoners celebrated Bonfire Night, a celebration since 1605 when Guy Fawkes was arrested as one of the conspirators in a plot to kill King James I and blow up Parliament. I was hoping for my own fireworks with some incredible wines I was about to taste.

We showed up about 15 minutes late and walked up the stairs to a private room with 11 .ebob junkies all awaiting our arrival. The champagne was pored and we got right into it.

Flight 1 - Champagne flight (3 Notes)

The Laurent Perrier was pored prior to my arrival and the chatter was that it changed in the glass. I found it to be wonderful. The 3 Champagnes were so different and it was such a great flight to start with (probably my favorite of the night). We tasted the champagnes one after another - not side by side. The Dom Perignon was particularly amazing. It was my 3rd time tasting it this year If you get anything out of these notes it should be that the 1996 DP should be bought by the case. It will be a classic and you won't be sorry drinking it now or in 20 years. There were numerous people who felt the Dom Perignon was the wine of the night. The Bollinger 1990 paired perfectly with the first course of food which is below.

  • 1985 Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siecle 96 Points

    France, Champagne

    Slightly acidic with a breadbox nose...Delicious with ripe fruit and yeasty undertones. Classic vintage Champagne with a bit less cream than the typical Krug vintage 85 and 88 I am used to drinki9ng. I wouldn't kick it out of bed any night of the week..

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  • 1990 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année 97 Points

    France, Champagne

    Gorgeous Champagne that was a delight to drink.. Thanks Chalres for bringing this Magnum... SLight palate of mulled apples / cider. Delicious undertones of crisp acidic apple and pear. What a treat --- I couldn't stop from going back and back again from this wonderfuful liquid with bubbles. A classic that drank perfectly tonight. Wow

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  • 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 99 Points

    France, Champagne

    Flirting with PERFECTION.... Back up the truck.. This Champagne is KILLER.... ELegant, crisp, Vibrant, balanced with just the right amount of acidity.. The true definition of finess. Citrus undertones with brilliannt integration of acid, fruit and acidity. You don't truly love wine unless you have a few bottles of this in your cellar.

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Flight 2 - Token Whites (4 Notes)

The wines below were served with thin sliced tuna, salmon and swordfish on lamb lettuce leaves and sun dried grey mullet roe. The food was delicious - onto the wines..

  • 1994 Gaja Langhe Chardonnay Gaia & Rey 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

    White light.. with pear and creamy undertones. Butter jumps from the palate with a fruit that seems a bit tired... If you own this, drink up.. It's possible the oak is showing stronger than the fruit. Non-the-less a fantastic bottle of wine that blows the socks off some of the crap I have tasted from California including Peter Michael and Kistler.

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  • 2002 Miani Sauvignon 91 Points

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Colli Orientali

    Soft and plush with an absolutly beatiful nose of peaches.. Amazing how closly this nose resembles a German Riesling. I spent a few minutes without tasting and only smelling this plush wine. Then disapointment set in on my palate. The wine was short thin and just didn't have the stuffing to back up that ohh laa laa nose.

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  • 2000 Gaja Langhe Alteni di Brassica 84 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

    Just simply not what I am looking for in a white wine by Gaja. Just about as simple as you can get with nothing original in color, nose, or palate. A real disapointment especially since I brought this wine. With so many more wines to go I dumped it and moved on... By far the weakest of the whites tasted.

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  • 2000 Le Macchiole Paleo Bianco Toscana IGT 89 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    Golden Hue. Sour patch notes on the palate with nice acidity. Not for me but others seemed to enjoy it.

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Flight 3 - 1993 Nebbiolo (4 Notes)

The critics didn't particularly like 1993 Nebbiolo vintage but with the food these wines performed wonderfully. We tasted these wines with homemade pasta ribbons served with hare ragu and it was simply marvelous. The wines paired perfectly with this choice in food. Yumm..

  • 1993 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Decanted a few hours prior. Sediment was very apparent and the wine kept a slight cloudy hue. The nose had a high acidic quality and along with the palate was the most acidic of the 4 wines in this 1993 flight. Tar and black cherries were tasted and this well endowed wine was a great match with our food.

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  • 1993 Gromis (Gaja) Barolo Conteisa Cerequio 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Dark purple color.. This wine was decanted prior to tasting. The nose had a sweet cherry bling.. Tar and licorice were found. Slightly drying finish. Elegant and tasty...

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  • 1993 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Dark brudding purple.. Sweet flavors of leather and tabacco.. Balanced wine of the flight - hints of wood with a nice acidic balance. Bling cheeries.. Medium body.

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  • 1993 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Smooth coats the mouth - mushroom and barnyard.. Perfume nose.. Slightly drying.. Tannins still slightly evident which lead to a slight bitterness. A nice Gaja and a good match with the dish.

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Flight 4 - 1995 and 1996 Nebbiolo (4 Notes)

Wow - 2 reds in this flight made me very happy. The 1995 Bruno Giacosa took home the award for "The Wine Of The Night" after we voted at the conclusion of the evening. The clerico wasn't too far behind and this flight was a true delight.

  • 1995 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba 96 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Clearly the winner thus far.. Delicious soy nose with black cherries and harmony and balance. Attack of black fruit that finish with subtlty and a lovely long finish. Green olives popped as the wine had time in the glass. A wonderful treat and shows Giacosa is a master of wine. I can only imagine how good his reserve wines are..

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  • 1995 Gaja Barbaresco 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Decanted 1 hour prior. Tones of asphalt and tar. Saturated black with drying tones. Nothing too exciting to this wine.

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  • 1996 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Purple rim this wine was very concentrated with ripe cherry fruit. Smooth and complex. The wine changed like a chameleon. Huge and complex. A terrific wine.

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  • 1996 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina 95 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Another winner.. I couldn't decide which wine I liked more, the Giacosa or this Clerico. This wine was massive and concentrated with massive fruit flavors of black cherry and touching on chocolate tones. A lower acid wine than its peers this wine was a show-stopper for me with a happy long tasty finish. This wine has a long life ahead of it.

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Flight 5 - New World Nebbiolo (1 Note)

Served alone as a break in the flights..

  • 1998 Hanna Nebbiolo Bismark Ranch 91 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

    Black in the glass. This wine was served by itself and for good reason. Big ripe fruit with an almost candy quality. Drying finish its style was all alone tonight.

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Flight 6 - Vertical of Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric Del Fiasc (3 Notes)

This was a very interesting flight in that we had 3 vintages of the same wine. It was a shame that the 1997 had a small trace of TCA. Served with overnight marinated wild boar's leg, slowly stewed with red wine, taggiasche olives and fresh tomatoes, served with truffle polenta. At this point I was thrilled with the food. This joint shouldn't be missed if you happen to be in London.

  • 1995 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Bling bling cherry popping from the rim with a almost jammy quality. Concentration was the highest of the 3 vintages and the body was full. A big too fruity was the only thing that held it back from a higher mark. It lacked the elegance of the 1996 while showing off its fat succulant fruit flavors.

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  • 1996 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    The winner of the 3 wines in this flight it kept pulling me back to the glass with its blanace and elegance. Its complex and concentrated. ~Seductive soft - charming. A great match for the food and my 3rd favorite red of the night.

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  • 1997 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc 84 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    My nose was in the glass and all I kept thinking was where is the wine? Smelled like water... (nothing) This wine may have had a small trace of TCA.. With so many wines on the table I didn't give it much of a chance at all and poored it to make room for the next wine.. The palate had a slight ply-wood taste. 1 out of 24 isn't bad.

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Flight 7 - 1996 Sandrone Barolo's (2 Notes)

The two Sandrones couldn't have been more different from the same producer and the same vintage.. Very fun. At this point out came a wonderful selection of Tuscan cheeses served with Acacia honey and raison and walnut bread. My favorite food/wine pairing of the evening was the Tuscan blue cheese dipped in the Acacia honey while sipping on the Vin Santo (see below). It was amazing.

  • 1996 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Big barolo with sweet tannins this wine was below its brother "Cannubi Boschis". It's powerful and rich yet has some feminine qualities showing small amount of herb.

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  • 1996 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    A big monster pulple Barolo. Tons of weight it was best left for the end of the evening. Concentrated and bruty with a fabulous full body finish. This could easily use some more time in the cellar - Cherry liquor this is a tiny bit port like.. Yumm..

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Flight 8 - Dessert Port and Vin Santo (2 Notes)

The two dessert wines were served with sponge cake marinated in Achermes liquor, stuffed with ricotta cheese and chocolate. Devine...

  • 1997 Fattoria Selvapiana Vin Santo del Chianti Rùfina 97 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Rùfina

    Absolutly delicious Vin Santo that had roasted nuts and caramel and maple syrup qualities. Amber color this was clearly the best Vin Santo I have ever tasted. Only 500 ml for 13 people there wasn't much to go around. Beautiful for our cheese course. Simple heavenly with a finish that goes on and on for a least a minute.

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  • 1970 Fonseca Porto Vintage 94 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Black purple color its legs hung to my glass. This beast was decanted for 6 hours and still smelled and tasted like a barrell sample. Thick plums and spicy with a long balanced finish. This is a wine that will hold the test of time. 34 years old and still just a baby. Amazing finish to an amazing evening.

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Closing

Linden Wilkie did one hell of a job organizing this event. From the food, location, organization, etc - it was by far the most professional tasting I have ever attended. Thank you to Linden and to everyone I met - it was an evening I will not soon forget.

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