Fifteen 2009 Cru Beaujolais

City Club of Buckhead
Tasted Wednesday, April 27, 2011 by MindMuse with 1,077 views

Introduction

Tower Wine and Spirits and Henry Fessy wines (now part of Louis Latour) presented a several flight pouring featuring Henry Fessy wines from all ten Beaujolais Cru villages, plus five non-Fessy wines.

Flight 1 - Crémant Reception (1 Note)

Flight 2 - Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Régnié flight (3 Notes)

  • 2009 Henry Fessy Saint-Amour 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Saint-Amour

    Pink ruby. Sweet raspberry/cherry, touch of banana, with dusty cocoa spice and a low tone of red plum. Pure and round in the mouth with red and black berry. Med finish with very light tannin. Simple, but balanced.

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  • 2009 Henry Fessy Juliénas 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Juliénas

    Quieter nose than the St. Amour, with raspberry liquer, violets. Dense and structured. Medium long finish, firm tannins, and nice acidity. 89-90

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  • 2009 Henry Fessy Régnié 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié

    Purple ruby. Big fruity nose with blackberry, violets, low tone baking spice. On the palate dark berries, cassis. Medium body and finish. 89-90

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Flight 3 - Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly flight (3 Notes)

  • 2009 Henry Fessy Brouilly 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly

    Ruby colored. Nose of red fruit, a little white pepper. This was supple on the palate with good acidity. Some finesse, short finish.

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  • 2009 Henry Fessy Côte de Brouilly 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly

    This one was pretty muted on the nose and not giving up much during the time we had to taste it.

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  • 2009 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly

    This Côte de Brouilly was bringing the A game. A deeply rich fruit profile on the nose. Dense and structured fruit on the palate. Rich, good finish. Another poster child for what crazy good juice you can get for a couple of sawbucks from 09 Cru Beaujolais.

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Flight 4 - Chénas and Fleurie flight (3 Notes)

  • 2009 Henry Fessy Chénas 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Chénas

    This was quite feminine in its profile. Strawberries, dried flowers, light spice. Nice lift. Others around did not seem to like this as much as me. It probably should have been near the beginning of the lineup.

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  • 2009 Henry Fessy Fleurie 87 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie

    Orange ruby color. Bright fruit on the nose. This had a nice silky texture, but marred by some alcohol on the finish.

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  • 2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Fleurie 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie

    Brighter and much more energetic than the Fessy Fleurie. This had a nice minerally, slatey texture. 90-91

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Flight 5 - Chiroubles flight (2 Notes)

  • 2009 Henry Fessy Chiroubles 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Chiroubles

    Deep ruby. Tart berry nose. Rather lean, though not mean.

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  • 2009 Damien Coquelet Chiroubles Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Chiroubles

    This was unquestionably the most odd-man-out of 15 Cru Beaujolais tasted at the event. Perhaps the rooster on the label should have been a clue. This was all kinds of funk going on, including the only barnyard character of the night. Wild, sauvage, and made me want to crow a little bit. 90-91

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Flight 6 - Morgon flight (2 Notes)

  • 2009 Henry Fessy Morgon 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

    Somewhat backward, but with red berry, dried roses, almond skin. This was powerful but silky. Just great on the palate, with cranapple flavor. This was my favorite of the Fessy portfolio.

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  • 2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Morgon 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

    Garnet - looked like it actually had a couple of years of age, which differed from a bottle of this I had from same supplier three weeks ago. Nevertheless, all was good. Big, sexy nose. Palate had dried fruits and herbs. More advanced than previous bottle, but tasty. 90-91

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Flight 7 - Moulin-à-Vent flight (2 Notes)

  • 2009 Henry Fessy Moulin-à-Vent 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent

    Good aromas with red berry, banana, and mixed ground peppercorns. Lighter in body than I expected. Good finish.

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  • 2009 Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent

    This was the last wine of 15, and although my notes became a little unglued, that's partly because this really took us out on a bang. Deep ruby. Bold and alluring nose and flavors of licorice, brown sugar, plums, truffles. Terrifically concentrated and vibrant wine. Just knockout good stuff. 93-95

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Closing

These wines, all the Fessys under $20, the others $20-30, demonstrate the remarkable quality of the 2009 vintage in Beaujolais. The event was a great one to compare every CruBoo village in one sitting.

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