Casa Rondena Tasting

We were out exploring Albuquerque--first hiking, then lunch--and saw we were near Casa Rondena. So we stopped in to taste through their lineup.

While the tasting was a bit uneven, I'd say overall I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the wines. We had been warned all New Mexico wines would be sweet. The reds here, however, were generally dry with very good acidity. I'm not sure the Southern New Mexico climate where most of the fruit is grown can support dense, ripe wines while maintaining acidity in the coastal CA style I have gotten to know. But the wines with medium to light bodies showed good balance and complexity.

A few wines were rather overpriced, but that's a typical boutique winery issue anywhere. If they can sell through, more power to them. The Meritage and the Viognier (albeit an atypical one) were quite successful, IMO, given their price points.

• 2007 Casa Rondeña Calvin Clarion

  USA, New Mexico

  Med/light body, fresh acidity, with spice and herbal undertones. Seems like a good day-to-day wine.

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• 2008 Casa Rondeña Cabernet Franc

  USA, New Mexico

  Really catches the herbal notes of CF: tobacco, dried herbs, and a dose of green pepper. Fresh acidity, but with ripe red fruits. Med/light body. Seems structured to drink near-term, and should be a good food wine. Nice dryness level.

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• 2007 Casa Rondeña Meritage

  USA, New Mexico

  Favorite red--actually a very good wine. Tones down the green elements of the CF while adding in more structure and riper fruits. Hits a nice ripeness level for my taste. Acidity is lively, tannins are present. Not especially dense; surprisingly European in style. Definitely one I'd recommend, especially at the low $20 price tag.

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• 2007 Casa Rondeña Cabernet Sauvignon Calvin Founder's Reserve

  USA, New Mexico

  Disappointing after the Meritage. Seems simply jammier, lower in acidity, and a bit more tannic. Formulaic reserve style wine--just turn up the intensity several notches until it becomes a bit flabby. The Meritage is half the price and, IMO, a much better balanced wine.

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• 2008 Casa Rondeña New Mexico Sangiovese

  USA, New Mexico

  This seemed dilute. Nothing offensive, just lacking in character and flavor. Aromas from barrel aging seemed to dominate here.

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• 2010 Casa Rondeña Viognier

  USA, New Mexico

  This is an off-dry style, but IMO it works well given the acidity. Just don't expect a typical Viognier. It does have the lovely honeyed and tropical aromatics. Reminds me of an off-dry Riesling in a good way. High delicious factor.

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• 2009 Casa Rondeña Rosé

  USA, New Mexico, Middle Rio Grande Valley

  Innocuous White Zin-style pink wine. Made from Merlot. It's off-dry, and lacks acidity so it ends up very flabby. Based on dryness of reds, this is clearly a stylistic choice.

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• 2010 Casa Rondeña Serenade

  USA, New Mexico

  Spicy and aromatic--lots of cinnamon. Off-dry with good acidity, but seems less balanced than the Viognier for some reason. Kind of a sweet-sour kind of play rather than juicy. Good hot day sipper if it's in the $10-$15 range.

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• 2006 Casa Rondeña Calvin Animante

  USA, New Mexico

  This is delicious. Silky mouth-feel with typical dark, slightly raisined fruits. Fortified to 18% ABV. Not heavy; a very good dessert wine. Not as powerful as Port, but I guess it needs the port-like descriptor to give a sense of style. Good but also expensive.

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