Burgundy Retrospective - 1996 (Version KS)

This was a fun and educational event. I believe Neal Martin wrote earlier that red Burgundies don’t bode well in competitive tasting format and I am in agreement although a few wines showed magnificently. Most of the wines are aging slowly just like the Bordeaux and the Champagne counterparts. My impression is that the 96s show structure and purity/transparency in fruit but need to be carefully picked.

Angular and not too expressive fruit.

• 1996 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Sweet candied fruit, milky, strawberry jam, spicy sausage, lean palate, noticeable tannins. This bottling has never been too expressive and this is no exception.

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• 1996 Domaine du Château de Chorey (Germain) Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras Vieilles Vignes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Light caramel, a hint of perfume, cedar, pine, rose pedal, medium body

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• 1996 Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru Teurons 85 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  A hint of strawberry but overpowering raw mushroom that even carries to palate, lean, tart

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I wasn't too impressed.

• 1996 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Roasted fruit, animal, meaty, soy, medium weight and silky palate, the most open and expressive of the flight.

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• 1996 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans 86 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Spearmint, very little fruit, not showing much. John Gilman mentioned that this and the Clos des Ducs may need a few more years but I dont see it.

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• 1996 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Earth, iron, dry cherries, masculine and lean expression. Not a generous wine but very precise.

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• 1996 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  It shows the Vogue style, nice upfront fruit, cherry, strawberry jam, bright but not too complex fruit expression, very enjoyable.

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• 1996 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes 80 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Sharp, lean, not much showing

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• 1996 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

  A hint of mint, dry cherry, cedar, medium body, silky wine with good balance.

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• 1996 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  IMO Dujac’s style is not unlike that of Ponsot. big expressive concentrated fruit, jammy cherry fruit, bright and focused, sweet spices, excellent concentration and length.

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• 1996 Domaine Truchot-Martin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes Vieilles Vignes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Typical matured Truchot color, caramel, a hint of raspberry, very pretty and easy to drink. The fruit expression is not too complex, a shy sweet wine with medium boy and excellent balance.

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• 1996 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles-St.-Jacques 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  A hint of green a la the 04. Grilled meat, somewhat similar to the Dujac but not as expressive and also the green noticeable. There is some hope for the 04s as they mature. The green is there but much better integrated and not bothersome.

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• 1996 Daniel Bocquenet Echezeaux 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  A hint of blackberry jelly, the fruit expression is pretty simple, a hint of stems but not green.

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• 1996 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Flower, dry cherries, sort of weird as the fruit was on and off. Hard to judge but even when expressive not too impressive.

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• 1996 Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

  Classic matured big style CSD, sesame, raspberry essence, clove, cinnamon, grapy, excellent concentration, sweet palate and nice length. Lovely wine.

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• 1996 Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Mildly corked.

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• 1996 Hospices de Beaune Clos de la Roche Cuvée Georges Kritter Méo-Camuzet 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Concentrated, young, blue to black fruit, meat and minty but the fruit expression is simple.

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• 1996 Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Raspberry essence, expensive perfume, lavender and sweet spices. The overall impression is quite cool and noble. Excellent core fruit energy, excellent balance, seamless. The expression is similar to the Dujac CSD but a bit more precise.

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• 1996 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

  Delicate but strong core energy I often notice in a great Musigny, fresh cherry and, raspberry but the nose is shy. Excellent balance, polished palate, nice length but wishing for more nose.

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• 1996 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  This is an understated wine, dark polished fruit expression, a hint of mint, clean and masculine.

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• 1996 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  The best example of the 96 Jadot CDB that I have ever had, clean, polished and expressive. Similar palate as the Drouhin but more expressive nose and slightly more silky. Bright fruit expression of cherries and raspberries, a hint of wet treebark and mushroom. Excellent creamy palate. An exceptional wine.

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This tasting reminded me once again that Dujac makes great wines that will also please those who prefer the upfront fruit expression. Also the top negotiants make great GC wines.