2010 Rosés Part I: Provence, Languedoc and Southern Rhone

Beltramo's Wines and Spirits, Menlo Park, California
Tasted Saturday, May 21, 2011 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 612 views

Introduction

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Since Memorial Day is upon us and summer is officially at hand, it's time for my first rosé report of the season. This Beltramo's tasting focused on French rosés from appellations responsible for much of France's rosé production: Provence, Languedoc and the Southern Rhone. The colors of these rosés ranged from light salmon to medium dark pink. In taste, they spanned from dry and delicate to medium bodied, sweet and fruity. Varietals represented included Mourvèdre--which predominates in the roses of Provence--Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. Some of the fruitier ones can be okay as an aperitif, but I prefer the dry ones as the more versatile choice to pair with a variety of summer dishes.

I've indicated which I thought were the better values below. My favorites in this line up were the ones from Provence, a region that really knows how to do rosé, which is such a basic part of life throughout all the warm months in that part of France. My favorite producer of this group was Domaine Saint André de Figuière. This is a family operation led by winemaker Alain Combard, who spent 22 years working with Michel Laroche in Chablis before returning home to Provence. He has aimed for rosé that's as serious and minerally as the white wines of Chablis, and I believe he's very much achieved that goal. The Confidentielle is absolutely a serious and subtle rosé, but at $35, it may not be what most of us are looking for in a light summer quaffer. The Cuvée Magali delivers a lot of the same focus and balance, but for only about $16. Also a good value, at about $13, is the Cuvée Réservée Tradition from Château du Rouët. It's one of a few roses produced by this very old Provence domaine, run by the same family for five generations, and is a blend of Grenache and Syrah. The Domaine La Manarine from Côtes du Rhône is also a good value at $13. It's a 50/50 Grenache and Mourvèdre blend by winemaker Gilles Gasq, who started Domaine La Manarine in 2001 after working as the assistant to Paul Jeune, owner of Domaine de Monpertuis. Even less expensive, and the best value of this tasting at about $11, is the Domaine Sainte-Eugénie from Corbières. This large producer, with 45 hectares in production, was founded in 1906. The rosé is dominated by Cinsault, with 10% each Grenache and Cinsault.

I am looking forward to an afternoon rosé fest tomorrow at a friend's house, so I hope to have even more recommendations in my next rosé report.

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Flight 1 - Provence (3 Notes)

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Flight 2 - Languedoc (2 Notes)

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  • 2010 Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rosé 88 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pays d'Hérault

    Very light pink color; tart red fruit, citrus nose; tart red fruit, tart Mt. Rainier cherry, tart blood orange palate; inexpensive at about $10, but a little on the clunky side; medium finish 88+ points

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  • 2010 Domaine Sainte-Eugénie Corbières Rosé 89 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières

    Light medium pink color; tart cherry, floral, mineral nose; tight, tangy, tart red fruit, tart strawberry, chalk palate; decent value at about $11; medium finish

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Flight 3 - Southern Rhone (4 Notes)

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