75cl. July 08 disgoregement. 4.5g/l dosage. Mid straw. Quite a fragrant nose, a touch of orange. Fine mousse. Quite positive entry, not much on the mid-palate or finish at the moment, but fills out and rounds nicely. Spice, Ginger and orange peel. Really quite advanced though. ***1/2
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Fairly full gold. Slightly aniseedy nose with something slightly chemically. Not particularly expressive but quite richly textured and long. After an hour it opens up, creamier, spicier and some vanilla. Seems a bit out of kilter though and on it's way out I think. ** on the night, but really I think this is probably oxidising.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Mid to full straw. ovly mineral and floral nose. Goo dintensity. Pretty tight at the moment. Nose begining to open up to fruit and toasted hazlenuts, similar to the Coche last night, but palate tighter and more focused if a little less persistant. ****
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Lovely nose, starting to show some evolution, early sous-bois, a touch of caramel and there's a brightness to it. Underlying core ofred fruit and something meatier too. Darker-fruited, rounder and denser than the Chambolle alongside. ****
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Mellow, fragrant, pretty nose. Gently red-fruited. A touch of spice and caramel. Very bright, transparent, shows the terroir well. Really lovely. With time in glass, 96 acidity starts to show through. ****
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Quite a fleshy, modern nose. Good fruit in the raspberry to redcurrant spectrum. Also a creaminess and slight sense of oak spice and a touch of caramel. After a short while this becomes more polished and slightly high-toned, quite similar to last night's 98 Trapet. Good density of dark red fruit on the attack and across the mid-palate, and reasonably persistant, but ultimately it lacks density, flair and excitement. I can't compete with the expectations the label brings. ***
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
Mid garnet to orange at the rim. Lovely nose of meat and orange peel. Tondonia-like. Very fragrant. Lovely texture in the mouth, silky smooth but with an underlying density. Smooth across the mid-palate and a decent finish with good acidity and some grip still. Lovely. In the cold light of day ****, but ****1/2 on the night.
1998 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses
France, Champagne
75cl. July 08 disgoregement. 4.5g/l dosage. Mid straw. Quite a fragrant nose, a touch of orange. Fine mousse. Quite positive entry, not much on the mid-palate or finish at the moment, but fills out and rounds nicely. Spice, Ginger and orange peel. Really quite advanced though. ***1/2
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