Christophe comes to town

An old friend came to visit, which required some difficult choices in the cellar, time and liver capacity being what they are. On the whole, I thought the wines showed very well. The company was even better.

Started off with some simple snacks, cheese, olives, and the like; then we moved on to lamb chops with polenta and sautéed vegetables. The Rinaldi was particularly good -- looks like Bacchus was smiling, as I've seen some disparaging notes here.

• 2007 Tenute Dettori Bianco

  Italy, Sardinia, Romangia IGT

  (6/14/2011)

  Wow, is that Vermentino? Who knew it could do this? Deep copper color, citrus peel, clove, and orange goodness.

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• 1964 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  (6/12/2011)

  Simply beautiful. The aromatics were so impressive I was almost afraid to taste it: layers of bright red fruits with hints of leather and earth. The color was surprisingly bright and fresh and the palate followed the nose, if faintly. It just couldn't reach the same heights, display the same sense of depth. The palate was no slouch, mind you, just not quite up to the superlative aromatics.

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With poached salmon, followed by a spinach salad with Roquefort and orange wedges. Hirtzberger stole the show.

• 2004 Jacques Puffeney Trousseau Arbois Bérangères

  France, Jura, Arbois

  (6/14/2011)

  It lacks the tension it had earlier in life but is getting to an interesting place. This demands attention at this stage; it's not speaking loudly, but it has plenty to say. Very delicate, a little soft, with the usual red fruits but more velvet in texture than usual.

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• 1994 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  (6/14/2011)

  A beautiful showing - à point now but no rush. Still fresh, it has the rainwater over stones quality I love, an opulent mouthfeel yet fresh and poised at the same time.

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• 2000 Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Etoile

  France, Jura, L'Etoile

  (6/14/2011)

  Showing very well, early prime time but eons left. This is potent stuff and yet wonderfully complex. Maybe my expectations are playing tricks on me, but it seems less refined than their Vin Jaune.

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Filet de boeuf with roasted tomatoes and a fresh garden salad from the first delivery of the year for our CSA

• 2004 Rhys Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  (6/14/2011)

  Did not disappoint. No hint of the hot vintage. Beautiful texture with floral overtones and deft use of wood.

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• 1990 Château La Conseillante

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  (6/14/2011)

  Slow ox'ed for a 3-4 hours, it needed more air: into the decanter for another couple of hours. I was shocked by the prominence of Cab Franc -- I didn't realize there was any before tasting. I was also surprised by how restrained and relatively unevolved it seemed. All that said, it was a very lovely bottle. Tobacco, black fruits, clean earth, opening up on the palate but with plenty of room to grow.

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• 1990 Château d'Yquem

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  (6/14/2011)

  Here too, I was expecting something more opulent, more obvious. The delicacy and restraint struck me. I had to really listen to hear what it had to say, which was quite a lot. It filled out with air. Decanting might have been a good idea.

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