Truchot and others

Truchot has as far as I'm aware never exported to the UK, and I would guess that this collection of half a dozen wines from his last four vintages is the biggest UK Truchot event there's ever been, or is likely to be. Four of us joined Mr and Mrs Blach at their home for an amazing classic burgundian dinner. The Truchot wines were actually a bit bigger and more refined than I was expecting - and utterly wonderful.

• 2005 Domaine Huet Vouvray Cuvée Huet Brut

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Soft, gentle fizz, sweet in the middle, but with real depth - lovely

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• 2003 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey-Saint-Denis

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis

  Rich and elegant. still on the tight side. No sign of the 2003 heat here. Very fine.

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• 2005 Domaine Truchot-Martin Gevrey-Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Tight and metallic, but one gets hints of gorgeous ripe fruit, enough to tell how classy this is

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• 2002 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Blanchards

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

  Darker, browner and weightier than I remembered past bottles, deep and mysterious, warm, rooty and earthy - fantastic

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• 2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Lean, but not at all mean, this was light and fresh, with a pleasing acrid edge, fine gamey fragrance - a delight

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• 2005 Domaine Truchot-Martin Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  This shows that Truchot could do fine, elegant and expensive tasting with the rest of them, the fruit quite glossy, and way more expressive than the villages - brilliant and sophisticated

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• 2009 Henri Jouan Clos Saint-Denis

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

  Gorgeous, sumptuous young wine, the fruit sweet, soft, the tannins ultra soft

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• 2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Blanchards

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

  In retrospect, I wish I'd been in a state to compare this properly with the 2002 and the 2004 Sentiers - no sign of mean here either, though seemed fuller and earthier than the Blanchards - equally lovely

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• 1998 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Cloudy, a bit of spritz, but ultra fresh, edgy and exciting

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• 1989 Domaine Louis Remy Chambolle-Musigny Les Fremières Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  My faculties definitely fading by this stage, but I registered how vibrant this was for an 89, and was a worthy follow-up to the Ponsot

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• 1991 Domaine Louis Remy Clos de la Roche

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  I remember I enjoyed this, but the recollection of what it was like has gone.

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