Golden Gate Club, Presidio, San Francisco, California
Tasted Sunday, July 17, 2011 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 953 views
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I haven't made it down to Paso Robles for the last couple years, so I was glad to have this chance to check in with some familiar and a few new producers when a large contingent of Paso Robles producers, the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, came to San Francisco recently. Unfortunately they only allowed 90 minutes for the media/trade tasting portion before booting us out to set up for the food and wine public event that was following that afternoon, so I had to work fast. I decided to focus on just a few reference point producers and then the ones that were new to me. A total of 31 producers were represented; I made it to 15 producers and sampled 59 wines before our time was up.
I had recently tasted through Tablas Creek's offerings, so I didn't spend time there. The reference points I did check in with were L'Aventure, Justin, Adelaida Cellars and Clayhouse. The ones that were new to me (and, in a few cases, are brand new generally) were Hearst Ranch Winery, kukkula, Opolo, RiverStar, Roxo Port Cellars, Steinbeck Vineyards and Terry Hoage Vineyards. The best of the latter were kukkula, Hearst Ranch, Steinbeck and Terry Hoage.
I find that the warm climate conditions in Paso Robles are ideal for red grapes that can take a lot of heat: Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Grenache and other Rhone varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties also seem to do well in some parts of the appellation. These were the varieties that showed well at this tasting. My favorites of the tasting, wines that I rated 91 points and higher were:
2008 Adelaida Zinfandel Michael's Estate Vineyard - 91 points
2007 Clayhouse Vineyard Petite Sirah Estate Show Pony Red Cedar Vineyard - 92+ points
2008 Justin Vineyard Isosceles - 91 points
2009 L'Aventure Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - 92 points
2008 L'Aventure Estate Cuvée - 91 points
2007 Ortman Family Vineyards Petite Sirah Wittstrom Vineyard - 91+ points
2007 Terry Hoage Vineyards Grenache-Syrah The 46 - 91+ points
For my detailed tasting notes, and more information on some of the producers, see below:
John Munch started making wine from purchased grapes under the Adelaida label in 1981. Ten years later he teamed up with the Van Steenwyk family, who were substantial landowners in the area. In 1994 Munch and the Van Steenwyks purchased part of nearby Hoffman Mountain Ranch, including most of the vineyards developed by Dr. Stanley Hoffman in 1964, which is the oldest Pinot Noir vineyard in San Luis Obispo County (older even than any Pinot vineyard in Santa Barbara County). They added other vineyards, including Anna's, where 18 acres of Syrah was planted in 2002-2003, and Michael's Estate, an 18-acre vineyard planted to heritage Zinfandel clones. Current winemaker Terry Culton was hired out of Calera Wine Company. I've enjoyed Adelaida wines, particular Syrahs, over the years. At this tasting I was most impressed by the Zin from Michael's Estate vineyard. ![]()
The Clayhouse Petite Sirah Show Pony Red Cedar Vineyard was my wine of the tasting. It's from a one-acre-block of the Red Cedar vineyard that was planted in the 1960s on its own rootstock. This vintage, 2007, was the first in which they bottled all of the Block 43 Petite Sirah separately, with 1.5% Syrah from Rick's Block. UV43 yeast was used. The result is a very deep and complex Petite that should continue to develop over 10 to 15 years.![]()
Justin Vineyard, created by Deborah and Justin Baldwin, was sold last year to Roll International Corp., owner of FIJI Water. The Baldwins continue to oversee operations. This has been a very reliable producer more or less since their first vintage in 1987. The Sauv Blanc, retailing for only $15, was quite good. The Isoceles Bordeaux blend, usually my favorite of the Justin lineup, was good in '08, but not as good as my favorite recent vintage, which was the 2006.
kukula is a brand new producer, whose name comes from the Finnish word for hill or high place. Kevin and Paula Jussila bought the Chimney Rock area walnut farm in 2004 where they have since planted 19 acres of vines, as well as French varietal olives. The grapes planted are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon. Starting in '09, most of their grapes were estate grown. The results are generally good, with the best being the '09 sisu GSM blend. I don't know the reason for the apparent aversion to capital letters in the name of the winery and its wines (which are incorrectly capitalized on CellarTracker.)![]()
Stephan Asseo's L'Aventure is well known, and among the best producers in the Paso Robles AVA. 2008 was a difficult vintage throughout California, and L'Aventure's 2008s are the weakest I've tried. The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is quite lovely, however, and should be thoroughly delicious with another three to four years of bottle age.
Chuck Ortman's winemaking experience includes stints at Heitz, Spring Mountain, St. Clement, Far Niente, Cain and Shafer, before founding Meridian in 1984. He subsequently sold that brand in 1988. He and his son Matt started Ortman Family Wines early in the last decade. Matt learned winemaking both from his father and from working at Castello di Gabbiano in Italy. I particularly enjoyed the Wittstrom Vineyard Petite Sirah. Their Cabernet is a good value at about $25.![]()
Steinbeck Vineyards & Winery is a new producer established by a family that has been farming and growing wine grapes in the Paso Robles area since 1884. Steve Glossner is the winemaker, who worked at Justin for eight years. The first vintage for this project was 2006. The Steinbeck family mainly sells their grapes to other producers, and claim that they use only one percent of their own grapes for this project. I particularly liked the Petite Sirah. The five-grape blend called The Crash is supposed to commemorate the rather messy 1956 descent of a B-26 into the family farm.![]()
Terry is a former professional football player and he and his wife Jennifer purchased a 26-acre Paso Robles vineyard in 2002. They originally employed Saxum's Justin Smith to make their wines, from 2002-2004. With the 2005 vintage, and what they learned from Justin Smith, the Hoages began making the wines themselves. They specialize in Rhone blends. The only one I got to try at this tasting was the Grenache-Syrah blend, but it was very good, and I'll be looking for an opportunity to try their other white and red blends.![]()
2009 Adelaida Pavanne 85 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Peach, pear nose; soft peach, pear palate with low acidity; medium finish (50% Roussanne, 41% Grenache Blanc, 9% Viognier)
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2008 Adelaida Pinot Noir HMR Estate 88 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Black cherry, cola nose; ripe black cherry, black raspberry palate; medium finish
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2008 Adelaida Version Red 87 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Black cherry, berry nose; simple, black cherry, berry palate; medium finish (48% Mourvedre, 30% Syrah, 13% Grenache, 9% Counoise)
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2008 Adelaida Syrah Anna's Estate Vineyard 90 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Ripe, rich berry, black fruit nose; tasty, ripe black fruit, berry, tar palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points
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2008 Adelaida Zinfandel Michael's Vineyard 91 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Lifted ripe cassis, berry nose; tasty, ripe cassis, berry palate with a touch of menthol; needs 1-2 years; medium-plus finish
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2007 Adelaida Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Viking Estate Vineyard 89 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Kinky berry, herb nose; tart berry, currant, herb palate; medium-plus finish
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