Through the Decades in Burgundy - A Taste for Life 2005

Charity event raising money for juvenile diabetes causes. Organized by Sean Bishop of Wine Commune and his wife Julie. Tasting at a single themed table, then walk around and try the great wine left at other tables, followed by dinner. Although I imagine much of the greatest of the great wine at each table was already finished before the "walk around."

Hosted by the knowledgeable, fun and entertaining Raj Parr.

• 2002 Domaine Joseph Roty Griotte-Chambertin 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Tasting. My first experience with Roty's Griottes, this showed much like his Charmes-Chambertin often does but more perfume, charm and intensity. Great perfumed aromatics along with some ripe roasted fruit. Big and brash oak spices that still need to integrate. Fruit was sappy and intense, even almost explosive on the long, long finish. Everything here is big, so it all seems nicely balanced. I really hope to try this wine again in 10-15 years.

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• 1999 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux 98 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Tasting. My first Jayer Cros Parantoux. By 1999 I'm told he was just making one barrel per year, which wasn't officially even commercially released. Bottom line - I'd buy that barrel. Simply spectacular from start to finish. Fruit driven nose vastly overshadows the oak-driven spice, but the oak contributes a lushness and sexiness that makes this even more intensely "Vosne." Layer after layer of red fruit keep popping out behind the silky tannins and energetic acidity. Every taste was different - some brighter, some deeper, some spicier. Marilyn Monroe in a glass.

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• 1985 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Tasting. Big Burgundy in ever way imaginable. Still mostly primary and fruit-driven from start to finish. Black concentrated fruit that stands tall over the tannins and acidity. Hints of secondary development poke out but are very "second stage" to the lush fruit as the "headliner." Everything is well integrated, although perhaps acid might be a bit light. Beautiful but not incredibly nuanced. Less perfumed or spicy vs. fruit-centric, so I'd probably drink this over the next decade while still this much fun and lush. Why wait?

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• 1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Tasting. Leather and earth mostly on the nose with some traces of nutmeg and allspice. At first the palate shows some good red fruit, but then good mushroom flavors take over with an interesting smokiness. Good remaining acidity provides some lift to the finish, which is reasonably long and elegant with its earthy charm.

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• 1964 Louis Gros Clos Vougeot Le Grand Maupertui 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  Tasting. All my notes say are "Gros Clos Vougeot 1964" so I'm guessing it is the Louis Gros, not Gros-Freres. I didn't look closely at the bottle. Big nose with surprising fruit intensity. On the palate the fruit started light but picked up intensity as well over time. Good remaining structure, this had a long earthy finish.

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• 1942 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Tasting. I went in with low expectations - WWII wasn't incredibly easy in Burgundy. Still showing interesting fruit on the nose. Spice wasn't up the level I dream about in LaTache, but it smelled great for almost being a Senior Citizen. Good clean fruit at first. Not particularly long or nuanced, this wine also fell off after about an hour. It is tough to fairly assign a numerical score to a wine like this, but my "89" for the organoleptic pleasure it provided, without any bonus points for history, durability or rarity.

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• 1959 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru

  Tasting. Probably the greatest wine disappointment I've ever had. Others at this table had tried this wine before. This had pale, thin fruit, little structure and hardly any spice. No obviously identifiable flaw but nothing like what I was expecting or what others said it should be.

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• 1934 Dr. Barolet Corton 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Tasting. interesting wine with which to conclude the tasting (although we were going back and forth between wines the entire time). Soft fruit with some interesting lush character and soft lingering fruit. Good soft tannins and interesting sweetness on the end. Is this all Pinot Noir? Nobody could tell, but it smelled good, tasted good and was interesting to discuss.

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• 1999 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District

  Tasting. Decanted, open several hours before I tasted. Beautiful nose shows dark fruit and spice. Flavors unfold showing tastes of black currant, black cherry. Still rather tannic but not at all unbalanced or inaccessible. Wonderful length. Give this more time, I'd think it will show better 2010 or later.

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• 2001 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Tasting. Double decanted several hours before I tasted. Floral and elegant nose, particularly for California Cabernet. Big fruit with lots of intensity, but everything is balanced. Long elegant finish shows at least as much spice as fruit. Clearly a bit of heat at the end, but not even close to the more monstrous wine that too often get the big scores. This wine is seamless, elegant and put together very nicely.

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• 2002 Shirvington Shiraz 89 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  Tasting. Open several hours before I tasted. Massive and explosive nose of pepper, spice and dark, saturated fruit. Very fun to taste but much less serious for me than anything else tonight. I doubt I could enjoy this with food other than perhaps really spicy BBQ.

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• 2000 Sine Qua Non Incognito 94 Points

  USA, California

  Tasting. open several hours before i tasted. Nose showcases dark fruit and pepper really well, almost seemed Cote-Rotie-esque but a bit more ripe. Flavors of ripe black cherry with just a trace also of cherry liqueur. Still quite big and structured, i think has some room to integrate a bit more. Very long spicy and powerful finish. Really nice.

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• 2001 Château Le Pin

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Tasting. Double decanted and open several hours before i tasted this. Somewhat of a jarring wine. The nose was a powerhouse and showed massive black fruit - plums, black cherries, black currants. The palate was far more austere and pale, Similar fruit but at nowhere near the same level as it showed aromatically. More interesting fruit, spice or nuance couldn't even be coaxed at in the finish. My first opportunity to try Le Pin, and I think there is something excited that just didn't want to come out tonight.

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• 2000 Château Hosanna 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Tasting. double decanted several hours before i tasted. Just a baby. Green pepper, plum, creme caramel and a trace of chocolate on the nose. Shows some real spice and well structured black fruit from start to finish. Great length. Obviously needs another couple of decades to really strut its stuff.

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• 1998 Chris Ringland Shiraz 94 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa

  Floral, perfumed start. Bold black frit with good black pepper, good tannins and acids, everything in harmony today. Long finish.

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• 1998 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace 96 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley

  Floral, alluring aromas with dense fruit. Gorgeous flavors, lots of power, lots of spice and charm. Great length, expanding finish.

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• 1998 Clarendon Hills Astralis 91 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, Clarendon

  A bit over-the-top on both nose and palate, but lush fruit and intense spice are fun and easy to enjoy.

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• 1998 Penfolds Grange 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia

  Massive, massive black fruit aromas. Far more "New World" style than I ever recall from prior vintages of Grange. Super concentrated without any subtlety. This will be interesting to revisit every few years for the next few decades.

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• 2002 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra Barossa Valley 95 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Sensational aromas of black fruit, black pepper, licorice, fresh herbs. Blackberry with same herbs, spice and pepper on palate. Long and powerful finish. Trace hints of heat on palate, so while this should be great for a while, I'd still consider it best 2-5 years from now vs. a decade from now.

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• 1994 Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Tasting. Concentrated black fruit aromas with great spice background. Plum and cherry on palate, very fresh, but quite balanced and soft. Long finessed finish.

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• 1994 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Herb Lamb 96 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Tasting. Black currant and cherry aromas with great alluring spice. Palate shows darker fruit plum, black currant and some blueberry on finish. Great harmony from start-to-finish. Incredibly long finish showcases great spice.

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• 2001 Colgin Cariad 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Tasting. Great nose of dense black fruit, cocoa, great spice. A bit firm and tightly strctured on palate, but lots of nuance emerges on very long finish. Better after 2008.

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