Livermore: The Day Before The Storm

The annual Livermore Harvest Wine Festival is the Sunday and Monday of Labor Day Weekend, so I decided to pop in and do some tasting on Saturday, when a festival pass is not required. Most wineries were open to the public and fully staffed.

La Rochelle is a subsidiary of Steven Kent Winery, aimed mostly at single-vineyard pinot noirs. I first went to the low-slung building containing the sit-down tasting area, where the wines are paired with cheeses, but I always find it hard to sort out differences in the quality of the wines versus the quality of the pairings. I went across the parking lot to the main building, with more conventional tasting.

This was no ordinary tasting bar, though. Each group of patrons received their own tasting table, complete with dump bucket, and samples were brought to you. In fact, you don't have to request the next wine at all; tasting staff are keeping one eye out, like the best restaurant servers, and bring it at the appropriate time. A huge step up from the scrum at a crowded bar, and reasonably priced at $10 for a flight of 4 wines, half refundable with purchase. Also, the tasting sheet lists every wine with its relevant data, including harvest date, alcohol content, cases produced, and élevage, without including tasting notes. This "just the facts" style is my favorite, and there is nothing more insulting than being given tasting notes when you're in a tasting room! What is the point of having a sample of the actual wine in front of you otherwise? Unfortunately for me, La Rochelle will not sell two flights at the same time to a single person, even though I was spitting 90% of my tastes (I asked). As it was presented to me, I could buy both flights, but only in sequence. So, I can only present my impressions of half the wines on offer.

• 2010 La Rochelle Pinot Noir Rosé

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  (9/4/2011)

  At 13.2% alcohol, this rosé of pinot noir has high acid despite a round mouthfeel. While it's nearly colorless, there is a good amount of strawberry flavor. However, it's really too citric. Absolutely needs food. The Prince of Pinot liked this a lot, and I didn't think it was that great, especially for $22, which is interesting because usually we're well-calibrated. Good.

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• 2010 La Rochelle Pinot Gris

  USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco

  (9/4/2011)

  It's nice to see low-alcohol (13.0%) white wine in Livermore, though obviously the grapes are from the much cooler Arroyo Seco area. However, both this and the rosé come across as clumsily acidic. It's rare that I fault a wine for too much acidic backbone. The nose of pear is nice, and the oak aromas are mild but out of place. Lacks flavor on the palate. Desperately needs some fried fish. Listing for $26, a poor value. Good.

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• 2008 Bradley Vineyards Pinot Noir

  USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Umpqua Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  Produced by Bradley Vineyards but sold by La Rochelle as a fundraiser for the admirable Taylor Foundation. Chewy, tarry, charcoal and tannins, only a little dilute fruit. The cheapest of the pinots at $28, but no value. Fair+.

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• 2008 La Rochelle Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  (9/4/2011)

  $42. From vineyards near the Petaluma Ridge. Sweet fruit, including cherry cola despite some prominent acid. A firm tannin backbone, overall a big wine but not harsh. Several dollars cheaper than the the one single vineyard I tried, but I liked this one better. Very Good.

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• 2008 La Rochelle Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  (9/4/2011)

  $48. Fruity nose, good finish, but missing complexity. Good+.

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Tesla Vintners is a "community tasting room" that aggregates wines from several boutique wineries. In the past Thomas Coyne Winery and Rhyan Estate Vineyards have also poured here. You needn't worry about a Wine Conglomerate, Inc. vibe though, once you see the actual "Singing Winemaker" playing his guitar behind the bar, the other two tasting staff harmonizing! This day, there are fifteen wines on offer to try for a $5 tasting fee, refundable with purchase.

• NV Miramont Estate Vineyards Brut

  USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi

  (9/4/2011)

  $14. I ask if this, the first wine on offer, is dry, but the staffer is new and doesn't know. Despite the "brut" designation, this is definitely off-dry, though that goes well with the floral, muscatty character and biscuit aromas.

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• 2008 Miramont Estate Vineyards Chardonnay

  USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi

  (9/4/2011)

  $14. Balanced, clean, but very simple. Fair+.

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• 2008 Miramont Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

  USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi

  (9/4/2011)

  $14. Loads of typical cab nose, but the palate veers just past herbal (a quality I enjoy in cabernet sauvignon, but only in small quantities), though it's accompanied by lots of fruit. Too tannic. Good+.

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• 2008 Marr Cellars Petite Sirah Cuvée Patrick

  USA, California, Central Valley, Tehama County

  (9/4/2011)

  $18. I had never even heard of Tehama County, but apparently they are doing something right up there in central northern California! Nearly black in color like most petite sirah, with an inky, porty nose. Loads of chewy blackberries. Deep. Huge (14.3%) but balanced except for too much fine tannin. I bought a bottle. Very Good+.

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• NV Marr Cellars Cuvée Selena

  USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino

  (9/4/2011)

  $20. There's a line on the tasting sheet (which I make a point not to read before tasting), "... what gives it that creamy and velvety mouth feel?" My guess would be a couple percent residual sugar! In this case that sweetness seems to obscure a whole basket of red berries and cherries, which is a shame. Good.

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• 2005 Marr Cellars Petite Sirah Lake County

  USA, California, North Coast, Lake County

  (9/4/2011)

  Similar in basic outline to the Cuvée Patrick, but lacking most of its fruit.

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• 2005 Marr Cellars Petite Sirah

  USA, California, Central Valley, Tehama County

  (9/4/2011)

  $19. Despite being a Tehama County petite sirah, this is not the Cuvée Patrick. Similar to the Lake County version. Good.

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• NV The Singing Winemaker Melody

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $20. I tasted the second release of this nonvintage blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and petite sirah, at 14.9%. Lean, not much going on, and too tannic. Fair+.

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• NV The Singing Winemaker Zinfandel Karen's Kisses

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $20/half. This is the sort of wine I wouldn't have the courage to make. Fermentation stopped naturally somewhere over 15%, it stayed stable through thirty months in barrel without any additions, so he bottled it. Sweet, lacking in nose, a little aged musty character, fruity palate. Good.

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• 2002 The Singing Winemaker "Con Amore" Tawny Port

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $20/half. A blend of Souzao and Touriga Nacional (traditional Porto grapes) this is a true tawny port, made without the use of caramel color. Competent. Good.

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The last time I tasted here, at least five years ago, Stony Ridge was A) a part-time restaurant, and B) featured a blizzard of Italian varietals (please note, at this very moment you are seeing that rarest of rare birds, the only correct use of "varietal," to abbreviate "varietal wine," and meaning "wine from a specific variety of grape." Any other use, especially to refer to types of grapes themselves, is incorrect. Even professional writers who should know better make this mistake. Misuse of "varietal" is a serious problem in our societal, so please keep your voice at a hush to avoid frightening away the "rara avis.") What was especially funny was that the volatile acidity on all of the wines, regardless of variety (see what I did there?) was so high as to render them indistinguishable. Truly by far the best thing about the establishment was its restaurant.

Fast forward several years, and Stony Ridge has undergone a change of ownership and spawned a new, more premium brand, Crooked Vine. The restaurant is gone, as are the nearly undrinkable Italians. All the wines are from the Livermore Valley and are much improved.

• 2010 Stony Ridge Winery Razzle Dazzle

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $18. Mostly pinot noir, a bit of residual sugar. Good core of acid, cranberry flavors. Good+.

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• 2007 Crooked Vine Winery Pinot Noir

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $30. Livermore is generally acknowledged to be too warm for pinot noir, but this is planted on east facing hillsides to avoid the worst of the summer sun. Oak makes its presence known above reserved cherry flavors. Good.

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• 2008 Crooked Vine Winery Moxie

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $32. A Meritage-style blend that, at least initially, doesn't smell much like cabernet sauvignon. And yet, it's got that "je ne sais quoi," that special something, that "verve," I just can't put my finger on it. Well, the right word will come to me eventually. Porty, cherried nose. Tannic, brambly, and loooooong. One of those wines that you can chew like the fat of a good steak. The Moxie was one of only two wines from the day of tasting that made it into my cellar. Very Good.

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• 2007 Crooked Vine Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $32. More elegant than the pinot noir, still quite firm. Lacks some of the fruit, too. Good+.

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• 2008 Crooked Vine Winery Cabernet Franc

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $31. Rosin and herb, some sauvignon-like cassis, long. Good+.

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• 2008 Crooked Vine Winery Petit Verdot

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $28. Floral but short. There's no shame in being a blending grape, I don't think I ever was able to enjoy a petit verdot as a complete wine. Fair.

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• NV Stony Ridge Winery Malvasia Bianca Bacchus

  USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

  (9/4/2011)

  $19. One of the few holdovers from the previous Stony Ridge, probably because it was one of the few that was good. Nose is hoppy, resinous, and despite having just the right amount of sugar and bubbles it's a bit harsh. Still, I heartily enjoy a glass of this that they comped me for no good reason I could see while sunning myself on the capacious patio (they also do events). Good+.

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It's kind of funny how I live in a wine region, but one far too warm for my own tastes. The Livermore wines are very expensive compared to my cool-climate favorites, which is why they only make up 5% of my consumption. Still, there is some good stuff being made on the big, chewy side of things.