Sweating to the Aussies

It's a pretty logical progression; the temperature and the humidity soar into the high 90s, so you pull out some...Australian Shiraz. Luckily, we were in air conditioning and Inside did a very nice job for us (note to self-bring your own stems next time). We seem to have had a rash of good OLs lately with good crowds, great wine and sparkling conversation. Thanks to Cheryl for organizing her first OL; it was truly a success. I can't wait for the next one.

Most of the wines showed pretty young I thought. The theory goes that you should drink these young, but I wonder whether some of them will ever hit the sweet spot of opening up the dense fruit with maintaining their dramatic nature.

• 1999 Elderton Shiraz Single Vineyard Command

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa

  This was a Jackie Gleason of a wine-big but surprisingly light on its feet. Nose of currant, cured meat and tar and, with some extra air, a hint of mint and white pepper. Dense and chewy, but without excess weight, it attacks with ripe black fruit, mocha and smoke kept focused by a nice undercurrent of acidity. Soft, caressing tannins add to the mouthfeel. Lingering finish. An elegant, well-designed effort that will just get better.

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• 1998 Armstrong Shiraz Great Western

  Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Great Western

  Dark with a nose of meat and menthol. Medium bodied with currants and a little cranberry. Tart finish that really chopped off once it had some air time. Probably needed some food to show its stuff.

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• 2002 Charles Cimicky Shiraz Reserve

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Another big but balanced effort. Blood, cranberry and licorice on the nose. I expected this to be much bigger given the level of extract (darkest purple and lots of sediment in the bottle), but it was fairly medium bodied (well, a big medium) with deep black fruit and leather. Air provided some additional notes of tar and white pepper. Underlying there was a nice acidity. A bit drying on the finish and it could use a bit more time but it is drinking very well now. Just a well-structured wine.

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• 2001 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri

  Australia, South Australia

  My first reaction is that I'm not sure that I would have picked this blind as a Shiraz. Brent suggest Cote-Rotie and that may be close, but I was thinking closer to Bordeaux blend. Notes of game and cherry. It's well made but without any real oomph or distinction. The finish fades a bit. A pretty good drinker though with food.

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• 2004 Two Hands Shiraz Bella's Garden

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Now that's Shiraz. Originally served a touch too warm, we chilled it down and it showed much better. A massive wine that exudes personality. Substantial in the mouth with concentrated black fruit (currants, cherry, raspberry) and tar. I missed any pepper that really would have been a plus. A bit too tannic at this stage to be fully enjoyed, this one will be a monster in a couple of years. Clearly the start of something beautiful.

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• 2004 Two Hands Shiraz Lily's Garden

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  Similar to the Bella's, but much more approachable at this stage. A big wine that is substantial yet supple in the mouth. A massive core of black fruit, but it needs some time to show secondary flavors. I suspect this will develop complexity as the fine tannins integrate and would love to check back in a year. Overall, good structure but a little too young.

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• 2004 Glaetzer Godolphin

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Very sweet fruit (currants, blackberries) and flowers on the nose. An almost impenitrable core of black and blue fruit that is so tightly wrapped I thought it might explode. Brent noted (and I agree) that the Cab adds depth and structure to the overall effort. A kiss of oak softens the whole package. All that said, it's still pretty monolithic at this point with loads of fruit and loads of structure. It has all the stuffings to be a fantastic wine.

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• 2004 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra Barossa Valley

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Another massive wine. Sweet black fruit, flowers and tar on the nose. A massive wall of candied fruit; where the Godolphin was currant and blackberry, this is cassis and kirsch. I also appreciated the black pepper notes that were distinctly Shiraz. Very interesting in the mouth that starts with a very heavy, chewy fell but then smooths out to a curious creaminess. An interesting and thought provoking wine that will be fun to revisit in a year. I expect that not everyone will like this but there is no arguing that it challenges.

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• 2002 Spencer Roloson Syrah La Herradura

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Served double blind. Black to the edges. Sweet black fruit, bloody meat and tar. There is an uplifting floral element as well that makes me think that there is some Viognier in there. Weighty and plush in the mouth with game and white pepper elements.

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• 1999 Pirramimma Late Harvest Riesling

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  A nice sweet wine but nothing earth shattering. Notes of honey and apricot that verge on cloying (I wrote"white raisin juice" in the margin). There's just enough citrusy acidity to hold it together, but not enough to make it outstanding.

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