Chateau Musar Tasting
Harrogate Fine Wine Company
Tasted Friday, September 23, 2011 by grafstrb with 794 views
Introduction
Tasting at local wine retailer. The 1979 bottles were donated by Chateau Musar for this tasting, direct from their cellars. The 1991 bottles were donated by an avid long-time collector who is the former owner of the hosting wine shop. The 1993 bottles were dontated by an avid long-time collector who is the current owner of the hosting wine shop. The other bottles were from the wine shop's inventory, with the current releases having just arrived from Chateau Musar a week or two ago ('04 Musar Blanc; '06 Musar Rose; '04 Hochar; '04 Musar Rouge; '10 Musar Jeune Blanc; '09 Musar Jeune Rose).
It was interesting to taste all these wines in a lineup like this, as one could identify "hallmark Musar traits" displayed in all the reds, as well as the Chateau Blanc. The 1979 Rouge was nice to taste, from an intellectual perspective, but is far past its prime. The 1991 and 1993 were fun to taste, as I think one is just past its peak ('91) and the other is either at its peak or almost there ('93). Additionally, it was nice to taste the '98, '99, and '04 because the older vintages gave these younger vintages additional context in which to evaluate them. Of the vintages in this tasting, I think the '99 is the one to buy if you're looking to send 'em to the cellar.
Finally, the "rose" --- and I put that in quotes because it's not a "true rose," per se, but rather a blend of white and red wine --- was quite interesting! I loved it, but suspect it's a love-it-or-hate-it kind of wine ... in fact, I suspect most of these wines are love-em-or-hate-em wines, seeing as how many are marked by V/A and/or brett. As it was, I enjoyed them quite a lot.
2010 Chateau Musar Musar Jeune Blanc 87 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- popped and poured --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 min. --
-- Viognier, Vermentino, and Chardonnay --
Crisp and expressive Nose was remniscent of Vermentino or Vinho Verde, with a pleasant overriding gingerbread note. Color was pale green-yellow and of light depth; and the wine was light to medium-light bodied. On the palate, this over-delivered for a wine of its price point: it was fresh, but not tart (I assume this went through malo); no oak; it was spicy and also a bit grassy before finishing on a minerally note. The finish was medium-short in length and of medium-light intensity. Simple but good. Drink now.
B: 50, 5, 11, 15, 6 = 87
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2009 Chateau Musar Musar Jeune Rosé 82 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- popped and poured --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 min. --
-- 100% Cinsault --
Light and inexpressive Nose of strawberry and strawberry leaf. Pretty rose-salmon color medium depth; medium-light bodied on the palate. Palate was more of the same: simple, boring, light strawberry flavor. Nothing offensive here, but nothing really of note, either. I had the '08 bottling of this wine in the past month or two, and my impressions of that were the same as this '09. My score here may even be a bit generous. Drink now.
B: 50, 5, 10, 12, 5 = 82
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2006 Chateau Musar Rosé 93 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- popped and poured --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 min, and then another pour non-blind approximately one hour later. --
-- mostly Obaideh, plus Merwah, and a little Cinsault for color --
My first pour of this wine showed an absolutely mesmerizing and expressive Nose of Starburst candy, banana bread, a hint of brett, and something that had me expecting V/A on the palate. This wine showed an orange-salmon color of medium depth and it was medium bodied on the palate. On the palate, my suspicion of V/A was confirmed, but I didn’t mind it much as I enjoyed the lift it gave to the wine’s flavor; I would have a very difficult time calling this a white or rose if given a pour blind: with its funky (bretty) flavor, strong leathery aspect, and strong dose of minerality on the finish, I’d probably be more likely to guess a light Cab. Franc or a medium-bodied villages (or lesser) red Burgundy. Very interesting wine, and probably my favorite of the tasting. The second pour I had was significantly different than the first: the second pour wasn’t nearly as funky/leathery, and it was showing much more of the Obaideh and Merwah character – in other words, it tasted much more similar to the Musar White than the first pour – I preferred the first pour, and will have to pay attention to serving temperature and air exposure when I open the bottles I purchased (less air time, relatively cool serving temp.). Drink now (or continue to hold?)
B: 50, 5, 12, 18, 8 = 93
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2004 Chateau Musar Blanc 90 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- popped and poured --
-- tasted a single glass non-blind over approx. 10 minutes –
-- Obaideh and Merwah --
Nose was slightly oxidative (as is to be expected from a Musar white), with a strong presence of candle wax. Maize color of medium depth, and medium bodied on the palate. Slightly oily on the palate, and obviously made in the oxidative style, with almond, earth, and leather flavors featured; well-balanced with good acidity, well-hidden 12% alc. and a long finish of moderate intensity. Will benefit from cellaring. From ungrafted vines located at around 1300 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Anti-Lebanon mountains in the Bekaa Valley. This wine was fermented and aged for 9 months in French oak, then blended and bottled at the end of its first year. This is the current release for the Musar White. Hold.
B: 50, 5, 11, 16, 8 = 90
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2004 Chateau Musar Hochar Père & Fils 85 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- double-decanted approximately 2 hours before tasting --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 minutes, and then another pour approximately 1 hour later --
-- Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache --
Dark spicy Nose with noticeable V/A and strong brett --- the brett was a bit much even for me. Garnet color with some bricking at edges. Medium to medium-full bodied. The brett is very noticeable on the palate, as is the V/A; aged leather character with vineagar tones; long finish; 14% alc. not noticeable. I like it, but too much bretty funk. The grapes for this wine come from a single vineyard located in the village of Aana; the vineyard yields 25 to 30 hectolitres per hectare, and the average vine age is between 35 and 50 years old. Drink now with a healthy decant, or hold.
B: 50, 4, 11, 14, 6 = 85
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1979 Chateau Musar 85 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- double decanted approximately 2.5 hours before tasting --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 minutes –
Well, this was certainly interesting. The color was mahogany, with a ruby core, and the wine was also quite hazy. The Nose featured a ground coffee bean aroma with light raspberry tones; gentle hints of hay, dry horsebarn, and spice added complexity. Medium-light body. The ground coffee beans were repeated on the palate, and accompanied by a green olive note and a hint of leather; good acidity; quite dry and thin; finish was short and of light to medium-light intensity. Really, this is almost gone. A good wine well past its prime. At its peak, this wine was surely deserving of a higher score than I can give it today. Drink now.
B: 50, 5, 12, 13, 5 = 85
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1991 Chateau Musar 90 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- double decanted approximately 2.5 hours before tasting --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 minutes, and then another pour approximately 1 hour later --
Garnet color with bricking at the edges; color was of medium depth. Subtle Nose of leather, aged cherry and strawberry licorice. Palate was more playful, with flavors of leather, cacao, tart red fruits and raspberry seeds, sand, and funk (bit of brett). This wine gave me the impression that, although it’s in a good place now, is probably just a bit past its peak. Time to drink ‘em if you’re still sitting on them, or watch them (continue to) fade gracefully over the next decade.
B: 50, 5, 12, 16, 7 = 90
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1993 Chateau Musar 92 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- double decanted approximately 2.5 hours before tasting --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 minutes, and then another pour approximately 1 hour later --
Mahogany color. The Nose on this wine really stopped me, and had me suspecting this would be my favorite wine of the evening: expressive notes of black licorice, cigar wrapper, and aged red fruits. The palate was fresh – somewhat brash, even – with leather and cigar spice notes; unfortunately, these flavors were lifted by a bit more V/A than I would have preferred. I prefer the smoother and better-structured ’91, even if this wine might still be nearing its peak whereas the ’91 is just coming down from its apogee; sure, this wine might ultimately eclipse the ’91 (and my score reflects that possibility), but I’m not sure it has the structure to do so. Drink now or continue to hold.
B: 50, 5, 13, 16, 8 = 92
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1998 Chateau Musar 87 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- double decanted approximately 2.5 hours before tasting --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 minutes --
Garnet-colored core, with slight bricking at the edges. Intense boysenberry and leather Nose, with hints of Christmas spice. On the palate, this seems quite young, although that is certainly a result of being tasted immediately after the ’79, 91, and ’93. Lots of brett on the palate – seriously, a lot – even too much for me; along with the brett, some leather and boysenberry; devoid of the V/A that marked many of the other bottles at this tasting. Structure isn’t as nice as the ’91 or ’93. Drink now, unless you want to gamble with the brett.
B: 50, 5, 12, 14, 6 = 87
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1999 Chateau Musar 91 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- double decanted approximately 2.5 hours before tasting --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 minutes --
Garnet color – darker than the ’98. Nose gave the impression of a very young Musar: purple berries, some V/A; no leather/funk. Palate was tart with a hint of leather and oak; red berries; a bit rough right now – could benefit from time in the cellar; bit tight on the finish, which is of medium length and moderate intensity. Seems to be quite nicely structured; if I was buying any vintage tasted tonight with the intention of socking it away in the cellar for awhile, it would be this one. I reckon my score tonight may ultimately prove to be conservative. Continue to hold.
B: 50, 5, 12, 16, 8 = 91
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2004 Chateau Musar 86 Points
Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
-- double decanted approximately 2.5 hours before tasting --
-- tasted a single pour non-blind over approx. 10 minutes --
Tight Nose was strongly perfumed – floral perfume. Medium bodied; a bit prickly; good acidity; drying (but not harsh) tannins; red fruits; a bit rough on the palate. This is the current Musar Rouge release, and its youthfulness is readily apparent, especially in this lineup. Wouldn't be surprised to see my score improve with time. Hold.
B: 50, 5, 10, 14, 7 = 86
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