1990 Pousse d'Or Volnays in Magnum

For this birthday celebration, the birthday boy himself treated us to these 2 wonderful mags, and another guest happened to bring a dessert wine from the same vintage.

• 1990 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Magnum. Shockingly youthful, even color. Gorgeous nose right out of the gate that just kept evolving and adding nuance-subtle red berry, mint and cinnamon. Perfect Volnay weight, all silk and seduction. Impeccable balance and acidity, persistent with a long, gentle decrescendo of a finish. Almost painfully beautiful wine. Out of this format, mature but full of life. One of the best wines I've had recently and one that belies the reputation of the vintage-it was precise and delicate.

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• 1990 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Magnum. A shade lighter in color than the Bousse d'Or and completely different wine. Immediately more aggressive black fruit and earth. Younger, more backward, burlier and the tangy black fruit and licorice not nearly as seamless as its stablemate. A more Pommard style wine. Over time, it did soften somewhat, but even with more bottle age, I doubt it will ever achieve the harmony and grace of the ethereal Bousse d'Or. What a fascinating contrast!

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• 1990 Hugel Tokay Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles

  France, Alsace

  Purchased at the domain in the mid-90's. Full yellow color. Clean aromas of apple and peach without botrytis. Pretty restrained in both weight and sweetness for SGN wine. Some nice spice, sound acidity. Somehow lacked intensity and any real sense of excitement, but good.

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