Dinner with Robert Bower of Taylor Fladgate

Carlos' Restaurant, Highland Park
Tasted Thursday, October 27, 2011 by petitblanc with 605 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 2005 Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Light gold color. Lots of vanilla and syrupy oak. Simple palate, with alcohol building through the tremendous butterscotch finish. Drink now, despite the oak, as the stuffing is just not here for further aging.

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  • 2005 Louis Jadot Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Fresh, medium depth of color. Slightly tight nose, but hinting at some depth, just a touch of fumey alcohol. Still very primary, undeveloped, extremely ripe, almost confected fruit. Some time in the glass helped blow off some of the alcohol, and this just might grow into a spectacular wine in 10 years or more. No score for now.

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Flight 2 (4 Notes)

  • 2009 Croft Porto Vintage 92 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    The most open and approachable of the 2009 TFP offerings. I found this remarkably charming at this stage, showing leafy fruit, great smoothness, and suprisingly, almost Burgundian elegance. Probably not destined for a great old age, this should appeal to those who enjoy their Vintage Ports young.

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  • 2009 Fonseca Porto Vintage 92 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    The most backward and massive of the 2009 TFP offerings, showing heavy molasses and intense dark berries. Some volatility made this tough for me to approach right now, and the huge tannins really filled the mouth, especially the front of the tongue. This will reward very long aging and should score higher.

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  • 2009 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    This disappointed, making the weakest showing of the 2009 TFP Vintage Ports. Lighter in style, showing some of the feminine elegance I find in the greatest Taylors, with some interesting floral complexity. But this isn't showing great depth and is overpowered by the spirit. Incredible length, though. I suspect a longer decant would have helped this, so no score.

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  • 2009 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vinha Velha Vintage Quinta de Vargellas 90 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    The simplest of the 2009 Vintage Ports from TFP, with a lovely perfumed nose and slightly pruney fruit. Probably destined for a relatively early maturity.

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Flight 3 (1 Note)

  • NV Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Scion 97 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    The Scion had the color of root beer, almost coffee, fading to yellow at the rim, just a tiny bit murky. It seemed to improve and open in the glass over an hour's time, showing intense nuttiness, celery seed, allspice, and faint apricot. Great depth and richness, perfect balance, not especially sweet or syrupy, showing almost Madeira-like acidity (but smoother) and pleasing warmth. Incredibly long, lingering on the palate for over a minute. I admit I was greedily hoping for a slightly bigger pour, since there were only 9 of us present, but we were tasting from little presentation vials rather than a full bottle, so we each got just about a half-ounce. Vintage traceable back to at least 1855, suspected to be somewhat older.

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