Cellar Tasting with Vincent Dauvissat--Mostly 2009s

We were slightly disappointed to learn that we could not taste the 2010s, which were being bottled, but any regret vanished upon trying this great set of '09s and the older treats we were generously served blind by the passionate proprietor of this great domain. An absolute pleasure and the highlight of our experiences in Burgundy.

I had thought that these would be more like the many other rich wines from this vintage. Wrong.

• 2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Petit Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

  All briny seashell. Light weight, good intensity. Really good for this level; in fact, it delivered more than the AC Chablis.

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• 2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Very much in the same lean briny style of the Petit Chablis, but this has a dip in mid-palate flavor and noticeably less expansion in the mouth. I preferred the "lesser" wine today.

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• 2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  The first wine to lead with fruit aromatics that say "2009". Underipe pineapple and transiently sweet entry, but this is deceptive as the wine is no more than mid-weight and the mineral structure strongly asserts itself on the finish.

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• 2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Bright orange peel and floral notes. Beautiful weight, texture, and acid balance.

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• 2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  The densest feeling of the 3 Premier Crus because of the strength of the material rather than the weight. Thrilling equipoise between sugar, acid, and salinity here. Reminds me of my early impression of the 2002. Superb-almost anyone else would be proud to have their top Grand Cru reach this level.

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• 2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Ethereal iodine and saline aromatics. Perhaps slightly larger scaled than is typical for Preuses, but the feel is still lean and incredibly focused with great mineral persistence. Incredibly nuanced and detailed with that inimitable quinine quality on the finish. No undue overripeness or fat whatsoever. Really a marvel for the vintage, giving me hope that there is more structure and oomph to these wines than were immediately apparent.

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• 2009 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  The best way I can describe this is that it is like having a Chablis bomb slowly detonate in your mouth. Not much more weight than the Preuses but incredibly explosive iodine, acid and minerality. You feel more than taste the lemony fruit. One for the ages and I would never have guessed 2009.

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Amazing.

• 1999 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Tasted blind. I was thinking 1998, so not that far off. Medium yellow. Glorious truffles and honey on the nose. Not that much concentration on the palate. Fully mature, some citrus, lowish acid. A treat but better aromatics than flavors. This is consistent with my experiences with 1999, but that said, this was still exciting to smell and taste despite its imperfections.

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• 1993 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Tasted blind. Deep yellow. More orange and less mushroom than the younger wine. Richly layered like a Cote de Beaune Grand Cru. Still with remarkable fruit and acidity. Not as recognizably Chablis at this point. Outstanding and a shock when we learned the vintage. I guessed 1989, but M. Dauvissat said that that wine is even richer!

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