Jonathan and Gail come to NYC

Jonthan is in town for a meeting, and Gail joined him this time, the occasion for celebration. So a handful of regulars -- Brad, Jay, Jeff, Don, Melissa -- and my wife, Kim, joined forces around a table at Il Corso for a nice range of wines that, perhaps oddly, did not include a single Chateauneuf. The very lovely Trevallon was as close as we got. I know I'm leaving out the 96 Chinon (which was it?) and surely others. But here's a quick, misleading start, from hazy memory, the morning after.

• 2004 Richard Leroy Anjou Blanc Les Noëls de Montbenault

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou

  The wood, which seemed so nicely integrated on the last bottle I tried, in early 2008, is sticking out on the finish, with a weird, sweet, buttery note that is out of place and distracts from the lovely material. Only a small hint of oxidation.

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• 1999 Nigl Riesling Privat Senftenberger Piri

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal

  This showed much, much less evolved than the bottle I had in April. Pale and not showing much on opening, it blossomed after double-decanting and waiting awhile. It took on richness -- Jonathan thought it sweet, like a German Spatlese -- and had a lovely texture. Interesting showing.

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• 1996 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant

  A beautiful showing: at first, it was dominated by the essence of the petrol note adolescent German Riesling often shows. After a decant, it opened up to show lovely, typical quince and floral tones, wrapped around a steel core. Brad complained of various faults, but he was wrong. Thanks Don and Melissa!

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• 2007 Olivier Guyot Marsannay La Montagne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  This was fierce on opening, bordering on downright nasty: weedy, stinky, and acidic as hell. Without a suitable sub and smelling no TCA, I double-decanted, crossed my fingers, and hoped for the best. A few hours later, it remained earth, mineral, and acid-driven, a very autumnal wine, with fallen leaves and turned earth prominent in its profile. An interesting wine. I just wish the tariff were more modest.

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• 2000 Domaine Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Very nice, fallen leaves, turned earth, a little smokey. This was dense with nice framing acidity, the fruit very much in the background.

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• 2010 Cowan Cellars Pinot Noir

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Very primary, this is dominated by red fruits at this stage, with a Morgon-ish type of profile. I like this better today than the Bennett Valley.

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• 2010 Cowan Cellars Pinot Noir

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley

  Although the alcohol is low by CA standards, this shows big and black fruited, a bit monolithic at this point. The last glass, after double-decanting and traveling to a long dinner and then back home, was quite fruit forward.

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• 2001 Domaine de Trévallon

  France, Provence, Vin de Pays des Bouches-du-Rhône

  Just a beautiful, beautiful showing, dominated by the very classically-proportioned Cabernet Sauvignon at this point. With some air, the Syrah came out, a bit, but only a bit. Really impressive.

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• 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Others liked this more than I did. This is from memory, so take it for what it's worth, but this did not move me. Nothing flawed, mind you, it just lacked tension and interest.

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