a tasting of 2009 Beaujolais Cru wines

There is some hype around the topic, and we have not had much experience with the genre before, so wanted to see for ourselves, how good these wines really are. 2009s are disappearing quickly from the shelves and we could not get any from the big names (Gang of Four, etc.), but finally managed to get some pretty wines. Wines were not decanted, but retasted after the session. Some could have benefited from it, though. Tasted not blind.

• 2009 Domaine Métrat et Fils Chiroubles 86 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Chiroubles

  Medium dark red violet color. Lovely fresh, clean nose with bright fruits, cherries, blueberries. Really pure, but not terribly complex. It's light-medium bodied, with a nice texture and good crisp acidity. Cherry-like flavors, restrained tannins and somewhat surprisingly, some alcoholic heat at the finish (though only 12.5% ABV). So drinkable and refreshing. Just lacking some length and depth for a higher rating. 85-86

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• 2009 Villa Ponciago Fleurie La Réserve 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie

  Medium ruby red. Sour cherries, black cherries, even some raspberries on the nose, with a touch of oak and even some sulphit, which starts to disappear as the wine sits on the glass. On the palate leaner with crisp acidity, medium intensity of flavors. Some tannins adds to the body, easy drinking but also structured. Some Burgundy resemblance. Lots of fruits and good length. 87-88

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• 2009 Jean-Marc Despres Fleurie La Madone 86 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie

  Quite robust after the Metrat Chiroubles. Dark purple color. The nose is darker, riper, more concentrated, and at the same time still has the banana-bubble gum Beaujolais thing. Black cherries, hibiscus, a hint of smoked ham. Riper on the palate as well, medium-full bodied, with less pronounced acidity. Purple fruit, flowery aromas, almost medium tannins and some heat on the finish. Will easily last for a few years.

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• 2009 Château des Tours (Beaujolais) Brouilly 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly

  Ruby red. The nose combines the flowery scents of Beaujolais and the berry fruits of Burgundy: rose petals, hibiscus, black cherries and a hint of dark chocolate. Medium-bodied and completely dry, there's no any sweetness here. Somewhat restrained flavors with not much intensity, you would expect more after the nose. Crisp acidity, ripe tannins, really vinous and easy to drink. Old school Old World sytle.

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• 2009 Château Grange Cochard Morgon Les Charmes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

  Here's the deal. This is not a light wine by any means; could be even too much for those expecting a light, flowery quaffer. Serious stuff. Almost black with purple hues. Powerful on the nose, very concentrated and ripe, sweet, with dried plums, some vanilla. Modern style, but so lovely and rich. It's full bodied but not heavy, still having the drinkability and vibrancy of Beaujolais, but seriously structured. Intense with a lot of flavors, underpinned by crisp acidity and very firm tannins for a Beaujolais. A bit oaky, but so much is going on here. Delicious already, but will age well, maybe over 10 years. Wow. 91-92

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• 2009 Château Grange Cochard Morgon Côte du Py 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

  The Cote du Py is said to be the more rugged in style, whereas Les Charmes rather softer. We found the opposite: this Cote du Py is more elegant, lighter, more Pinot Noir in style, than the Les Charmes (from the same producer, same vintage). Color is black again, with purple hues. Complex, ripe on the nose, but still fresh, even bright. Notes of cherries, blueberries, some walnuts, some oak. Lighter in body than the Les Charmes, but maybe even more intense and not lacking flavor at all. Less firm and tannic, but has more finesse and it's more drinkable. Lots of red berries on the palate with some oak as well. Very long. Will age too.

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• 2009 Jacky Janodet Moulin-à-Vent Domaine les Fines Graves 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent

  Lots of character here. Dark fruited nose with black cherries, plums, earthiness and lovely black pepper spiciness. Ripe but not jammy, this is rather unforced and even old school in style. On the palate it's already rounded, ligh, dry, with good acidity. It has nothing to do with usual Beaujolais (like Nouveau), but still quite light and drinkable. Not so complex though. Drink now.

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