Work Wine Tasting - Vintage Pairs

A wine tasting for my work crowd of sub-£7 wine drinkers and designed to try and test their view that they couldn't tell a more expensive bottle from a cheaper one. Bottles somewhat limited by what i had close pairs of in the cellar where the older wine was mature enough not to be a tannic monster. A partial success - would have been better if I'd got organised and opened the bottles slightly earlier than ten minutes before they arrived - one of those weeks! anyway, they seemed to enjoy themseleves which is the main thing and from my perspective it was great to have the opportunity to try a number of pairs from the cellar in a single blind context.

• 1996 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Millésimé

  France, Champagne

  Paired with 08 disgorgement NV. Initiially a little less flamboyant and showy, but with a bit of air this shows it's class and demonstrates finer bubbles and mousse, more mid-palate depth and complexity and more finesse on the length. Very nice indeed. **** After 48hours, this has faded more than the NV which is now showing better.

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• NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve

  France, Champagne

  08 disgorgement. Paired with the 96. This showed very simmilarly initially - a definate house style. With a bit of air this was richer and toastier on the attack and mid-palate, but also a little less refined and lacking in the elegance the 96 showed. Nice depth and persistence - for me this is one of the top NVs. After 48 hours this had held up better and was still a nice drink whilst the 96 had fallen off its perch a bit. Top ***

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• 2004 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Pale. Quite linear and restrained at present. Some sea and mineral notes; mid weight and reasonably positive across the mid-palate, but lacking some bite and intensity. Slightly curious one this. Nothing wrong with it but not showing the intensity and weight that I'd hope for with GC. Served against a 2004 Montmains (non-domaine) it was very very similar, in fact the Montmains seemed to show a little more dry extract and intensity. After 48hours open it didn't really show any development (and no deterioration) or added complexity. Not sure whether this has what it takes really. ***

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• 2004 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Served alongside the Domaine Bougros. This is good. Really intense, sappy, mineral, saline with nice weight of dry, chalky extract. Proper 1er material. Good length, freshness and proper intensity on the finish. Lovely ****

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• 2004 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim

  France, Alsace

  Mid gold, quite a full, ripe and rounded nose. Very riesling but not in the kerosine phase. Quite easy drinking, good fruit and some nice minerality coming through on the decent length. This showed very well against the 04 Clos Hauserer at this stage. However, after 48 hours this seemed a bit simple whereas the Clos hauser and come on leaps and bounds and was a clear notch or two above this with extra complexity, intensity and persistance. ***1/2

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• 2004 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer

  France, Alsace

  Served alongside the Herrenweg de T. Initially very similar. Good riesling nose outside the kerosine sphere, quite mineral with nicely ripe fruit coming through. Quite minerally and intense in the mouth. After 48 hrs open though this was really strutting - extra layers of complexity, minerality and intensity. Long, really quite focused despite it's texture, and showing nice intensity. **** but it does need air at the moment.

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• 1996 Bouchard Père et Fils Nuits St. Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

  This has improved no end since last tasting it. Nicely Nuits, a good mix of cherry fruit, more mature meaty aromas and a touch of solidity. Nicely balanced. Served alongside a Porrets st georges and not disgraced though the 1er was ahead as expected in terms of weight, density and complexity. ***

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• 1996 Bouchard Père et Fils Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Porêts Saint-Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Alongside the village wine this had an extra layer of complexity, depth and weight. Slightly darker colour too. Very similar flavour profiles. This is showing well and i prefer it to the 90 on this showing. Certainly ready, but no great hurry. Look forward to following a bottle of this through the evening rather than in a comparative tasting scenario. ***1/2 maybe ****

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• 1995 Bodegas Muga Rioja Selección Especial

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Mid to deep garnet at the rim with a nice deep ruby core. This is showing well, surprisingly richly textured - almost velvety. Mocha and dark berry fruit, some vanilla from the oak, really quite plush. Long and lovely and moving to the more traditional end of the spectrum, though less so than the 94 Torre M - the 95 res esp seems to have a little more gloss. ***1/2

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• 1995 Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Similar to the 95 res esp, though a little lighter and with less obvious gloss. This is quite deep with good complexity. Long through the mid-palate with a positive and quite intense finish. After 24 hours this has opened up a bit further and is showing well. Lovely. ****

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• 1995 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Wow, what a lovely surprise. This was far fuller and richer than i'd anticipated and indeed ran the St Pierre very close. Good dark red fruit, quite polished though still showing a touch of Cornas sauvage, fresh with nicely balanced acidity, tannins pretty much resolved; decent length and a very positive finish. Splendid for what it is. ***1/2

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• 1995 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas Domaine de Saint Pierre

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  This was served alongside the straight 95. A little more typicity and depth here, but very similar in the scheme of things. Held up pretty well after 48hours (less oxidised than the straight version), but probably best now with a few hours in the decanter. ***(*)

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• 2000 Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  Deep colour. Blackcurrant leaf nose. Still quite tight and brooding. It's lost its primary fruit but it hasn't quite attained the secondary development one would be after - leave a while longer. Holds up very well after 48hours - a little more relaxed but still quite structured. ***(*)

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• 2000 Vergelegen Vergelegen

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  On first opening this was far more open, sweet-fruited, nuanced and complex than the straight cab sauv, but by time of drinking around three hours later it had tightened up and was very similar in profile to the Cab. After 48hours, the remaining half bottle was still going strong - a little more complexity and generosity than the Cab. I suspect this needs a while longer. ***(*)

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• 2003 Château Rieussec

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Served non-blind with pudding. Interesting. This is far more medicinal, less creamy sweet/generous than previous bottles. Slightly off or starting to close up? Only a small tasting sample gone from the bottle (mine) as no-one else tasted it, so recorked and back in the fridge at mid to high shoulder level. Unstopper and retry later this week. ***?
  
  After ten days in fridge re-corked with about an inch of ullage this was a different wine. Yes, the slightly medicinal edge was still there if you looked, but it had opened back up to its previous sweet, creamy, cocconuty self and was very enjoyable over several evenings. A good ****. I wonder if this is starting to close a little and needs a bit more air before broaching these days?

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• 1999 Mas Amiel Maury Vintage Reserve

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Maury

  Served non-blind with the puddings. Lovely Maury - the reserve sees some wood. This is fresher and brighter than the straight 98 in half bottles (not sure they had particularly clean corks). Lovely. a great balance between maturity, complexity and freshness ****

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• NV Casa Pedro Domecq Pedro Ximénez Venerable 30 Years Old

  Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

  Served non-blind with the puddings. Typical PX. Some decent complexity here. On a quick sip, ****plus, but will revisit later this week.

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