Cabernet Hedonism

Tastes change. I dig wine...red, white, rose, bubbles, whatever...I am an equal opportunity wine drinker. But I have realized that wines I used to love, I now just like...and vice versa. The wines you choose to drink reflect your "taste". I was recently reading a book written by a sommelier, who came to realize the wine list he had assembled for his restaurant was a direct and personal reflection on him, his knowledge, and his life's work. As you learn more and more about wine, and maybe even start collecting wine yourself, the wines you choose to buy and lay down for your own future consumption also become more personal, defining your individual tasting profile; wines you believe will improve with some age; wines you believe have potential; wines that you look forward sharing with friends and family. Wine, after all, simply tastes better while sharing with people you love.

As I have started looking at the wines that take up the limited amount of space in my personal collection, I can see that one wine region (California) takes up almost half of my wine cellar. California wine country is a place I have visited many times, and I have my "favorites" in Napa/Sonoma, Paso, Santa Barbara, etc. Since I am more familiar with these wines, especially after personally visiting the wineries and tasting their wines on site, I have continued to purchase these wines because I loved them. But since I did not have a long term plan for what my collection would become, it just grew on it's own. And now almost half of my collection is wine from California.

Now, don't get me wrong- I love California wines. I appreciate them for what they are...which isn't Bordeaux or Burgundy or anywhere else. California is a maverick winemaking area...they are not (yet) steeped in tradition like the European wine regions...regions that have strict rules on what grapes you are allowed to use, what type of oak, how long wines must be aged before released, etc. In California, they do whatever they want, and their wines have ramped up in quality and ageability because of that very attitude.

But unfortuantely, many of the brilliant winemakers have listened to the wine scoring critics rather than their own intuition, chasing high scores so their wines can fetch higher prices. I guess I know how they feel. Years ago, I felt very overwhelmed with all the choices on the wine store shelf, and with a limited amount of $$ to invest, I mostly purchased wines that my pal Robert Parker rated...over 90 points if possible. I created quite a collection of high scoring wines, and in the process, I let Parker's palate train my palate. I think alot of wine drinkers can relate to this process. But at a certain point, I realized that some of the wines scoring 95 points by Parker, really didn't float my boat, even though I "wanted" them to. I started trying to write my own tasting notes. I committed to a score and to what I smelled and tasted, then I allowed myself to look at the pro tasting reviews. And I started to realize that wines I scored 92 points only achieved 87 by the pros. I started to trust my own palate. I slowly stopped chasing high scoring, pricey wines. I instead started appreciating the subtle nuances and elegance that I found in many of the wines from regions I had never previously known. And I appreciated that those wines were historically significant because of those very nuances and subtleties that made the wine taste...well...different than any other wine. Even the wine made literally next door. And that's because of "terroir", which is a French word, roughly translated as the combination of soil type, climate, and topography of the land.

You can't fake terroir. Great winemakers know that making a great wine starts in the vineyard. The right soil types, or hillsides facing the sun, or warm days and chilly nights. It all adds up to the final product...a bottle of wine, which even though it was grown from the same grapes, planted in the same soil, will produce a different wine every year...because the weather will change.
But change isn't good for wine profitability. Bad weather can make for a less desirable crop. And if you aren't a brilliant winemaker (most are not), you aren't sure what to do with that crop. And that's when the less talented winemakers start second-guessing themselves, and ask for help from a high-priced consultant. You wouldn't believe what these consultants recommend in order to turn this sub-stellar fruit juice into great wine year in and year out. They use dangerous pesticides. They can add acid to balance the wine. They can use designer yeasts to add fake flavors to the wine. They can add sugar, wood chips, and a whole host of other ingredients to make the wine attain the high score. And they can do all of this without even having to list it on the label. So buyers beware. You may not be drinking what you think you are drinking. High scores equate to high prices. And high-scoring wine must be good, right?

But some winemakers take an alternate route. They respect the terroir as supreme, so adding an artificial ingredient to inch up their score would be considered cheating by them. They nourish and release it rather than cover it up. They learn ways to naturally manage these curve balls thrown by Mother Nature. Wines made in this fashion aren't about scores. They are about the expression of terroir; nature; at it's very organic core. These wines don't achieve the pinnacle of "Syrah" in every vintage. They aim to achieve the pinnacle of the Syrah grown on that particular piece of land, and in that particular vintage, with little to no artificial intervention or manipulation by the winemaker. Terroir is celebrated, not covered up. Differences in vintage years are not only expected, they are celebrated.

The long-term effect of artificially manipulating wine can have a scary result...all wines start to taste more the same (like a 95 pointer), rather than tasting like whatever mother nature offered up that year. When a winery in California that has been around less than 10 years, sells their wine for $750/bottle, and a 300 year old winery in France making a similar style of wine is selling theirs for $125 (or even just $25), it seems a bit odd. Then the French chateaux get jealous, greedy, curious, or whatever you want to call it, and they bring that consultant over to their chateau in Bordeaux, and he teaches them how to add this and that to get their 95 point score. Then before you know it, a historical Bordeaux chateau produces wine that tastes just like a California Cabernet, even though the terroir is totally different in those two places. Some think this is great. They say quality is improving everywhere, and that's why the wines taste more alike. But the more I learn about wine, the more I want to be able to tell a Brunello from a Bordeaux from a Napa Valley Cabernet. And the more I want great examples of most of the world's celebrated wine regions in my cellar. Because they TASTE DIFFERENT. Terroir matters. Sameness vs somewhereness.

Long story short- I want a cellar that more accurately reflects my expanding interests in old-school wine regions where terroir matters. Trust me, they are getting harder and harder to find. But one thing's for sure: I need to re-taste my Cali Cabs and narrow down my buying list. So I decided to organize a tasting of the best Napa (mostly) Cabernets in my possession, in a blind format, allowing us to determine as a group (and individually for myself), which of these wineries make wines that still turn me on. I was hoping a few would rise to the top. And rise, they did.

As Rini says, Andiamo!

Beaujolais? Really? The 2009 vintage was over the top in Beaujolais and this wine is quite masculine in it's structure and Pinot-like in it's fruit profile.

• 2009 Stephane Aviron Morgon Côte du Py Vieilles Vignes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

  A much darker take on the typical translucent purple from most Beajolais. The wine has a Pinot-esque nose with gravelly red fruits and wet soil and mint. The wine has a medium bodied mouthfeel with gorgeous tart plums and cherries, leading into a mineral-driven finish that lasts for 30+ seconds. Brilliant WFTM.

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This is the pinnacle of what the wines we are about to taste can aspire to become.

• 1995 Seavey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Ran out of decanters, so this bottle was opened an hour before drinking, but wine was not poured or aerated initially. Tasted single blind. This wine had a gorgeous garnet color, browning to the edge. The nose was plentiful and very fragrant, freely offering up notes of raw meat, charcoal, then ripe berry fruits, which were more in the background. The nose had become complex and alluring due to the age of this wine. On the palate, the first description that came to my mind was "absolutely delicious." The wine was full bodied, with perfectly ripe tannins, dark cherry fruit, and a superb streak of minerality at the end. The finish went on for 45-60+ seconds. Several folks thought this wine was a bit tired and "past it's prime", but I completely disagreed. 93 pts.
  
  2 hours later, at the end of the tasting, this wine was revisited by those of us still hanging out. Perfect lesson in the necessity of decanting a fine wine. Those who initially had thought it was over the hill realized the wine had now opened up even further, showing off bright cassis and black currant flavors, deeply entwined in a chalky minerality, smoky charcoal, incredible balance of acid, and a drying finish that was just awesome. Upgraded my already-great score to 95 pts.

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• 1995 Château Calon-Ségur 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  Opened about one hour before consumed, but not decanted prior. Tasted single blind. This wine was dark purple, impenetrable color, slight browning at the edge. Looked younger than the other wine in this flight, although I knew they were both 1995's. On the nose, this wine was reticent and backward, not offering anything freely. I swirled and swirled to no avail. A slight note of mint, a mild dusty soil aroma, maybe some caramel/vanilla, possibly a hint of candied red fruit. A little disappointing for a wine of this age. On the palate, the full bodied mouthfeel had a lively and fresh acid profile, nicely balanced. I could tell there was some pedigree here, just being stubborn, perhaps? The flavors were muted, but the dusty tannins and fresh finish had me wanting another drink...even though the expected flavors weren't coming out to play. Several in the group picked this wine as their initial favorite over the 1995 Seavey, which I could not understand, based on what I was (wasn't?) tasting. 89 points; a hard one for me to rate.
  
  Came back to this one 2 hours into the tasting, after it had more time to properly breathe. Come On! Not even the same wine. We were collectively blown away by beautiful notes of tobacco, leather, wet soil, a little funk (Francis called it cow poo). The fruit finally decided to show up, and show up in spades, with tart cherries and currants, and a stony yet polished finish that showed it's pedigree. My score jacked all the way up to 94...very impressive. I have 7 more of these bad boys, and I'm smiling inside.

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Just entering into their drinking window...or are they? Enjoyed with the fun baked prosciutto cups filled with cannellini beans, made by Francis and Rini. The Monte Bello was donated by Chris and Kim.

• 2004 Seavey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Decanted 3 hours prior to the tasting. A wine of deep, opaque garnet-purple color. The nose was sweet and floral, with beautiful ripened cherries and a mild greenness that not only was enjoyable, but somehow added to the depth of the bouquet. The palate showed licorice, chocolate, and black currant fruit, with a gorgeous mouthfeel and beautifully integrated tannins. The balance was impeccable, this wine is just singing with youthful exuberance. Plenty of ooohs and aaahs all around the tasting table.
  
  Tried this wine again from the partially finished bottle, 2 days later. This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 50% new French oak. Virtually unchanged on the nose, possibly additional notes of wood and forest floor. The wine is huge, yet at the same time elegant on the palate, with the same notes as above, refreshing acidity and brightness...it is drinking so beautifully now, but will age gracefully for another 10-15+ years. This ended up being my WOTN.

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• 2004 Ridge Monte Bello 93 Points

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  Decanted 3 hours prior to tasting. Deep purple and completely opaque in color, looks very youthful. I get cherries and blackberries on the nose, with a very ripe cassis fruit aroma that I did not find on the previous wine in this flight (which ended up being the 2004 Seavey). I also notice a background bouquet that is developing, with licorice, leather, and vanilla / caramel. In the mouth, gobs of delicious black cherry fruit gives way to a stony minerality and a teeth-staining, tannic finish that is both tart and lively. The finish is medium length and this wine may merit a higher score later in it's evolution. 92 points.
  
  Tried again 2 days later from this partially consumed bottle. This wine is 76% Cab Sauv, 13% merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 3% Cab Franc. 92% new American oak, 8% new French oak. The nose seemed similar to the above note; possibly a little less ffragrant. The palate is also virtually unchanged from above, with an additional pen-ink quality; you can almost chew this wine, it is so viscous. Like licking crushed blackberries off a rock. This wine seems younger and less developed than the Seavey from the same vintage; certainly less immediately approachable. Yet I believe it will continue to evolve into something truly special based on this tasting. Nice wine, Chris. 93 pts.

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• 2005 Forman Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Decanted 3 hours prior to tasting. This wine had a completely different nose than any other wine at this tasting, almost to the point that I thought it was a bit off. But it was perfectly stored and no signs of defect were noticed in the cork. The aroma was immediately very astringent and vegetal, with green notes leading into mint, olives, stems, and some hotness coming through from the alcohol. On the palate, black pepper and spice, wet soil, saddle leather; then more vegetal flavors; then plums and chocolate on the mid palate. The finish was pleasant and balanced, but the flavors that had developed were neither what I was accustomed to nor ready for. Very pleasant wine. I will try the remaining wine again in a day or two to see if it develops into something more special. Definitely the last place wine in this flight for me, at this point. 89 pts.
  
  Tasted again 2 days later from this partially consumed bottle. I must say, I was disappointed when I found out this wine was the Forman, because it had been a long time favorite producer of mine, and it did not show as I expected (that's why we do these blind). Once again, the nose was atypical for a Napa cabernet, however, the alcohol seems to have blown off with some time. The minerality and mint is more noticeable than 2 days prior, as well as an herbaceousness that I enjoy. On the palate, almost identical to the above note, with refreshing acidity and a persistent spicy herbaceousness. This wine almost says "Cab Franc" to me, more than Cab Sauv. In looking at the winemaker's note, it has 15% Cab Franc, which is perhaps what I am picking up (also 5% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new French oak). This wine has plenty of time left (10+ years) of enjoyable drinking. I am inching my score to 90 pts.

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• 2005 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Oakville 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Decanted 3 hours prior to tasting. Deep purple with little to no sign of browning at the edge. The aromas of sweet cherry fruit were very noticeable upfront, and I described them as almost "overly ripe" to me; I notice the heat of the alcohol on this wine, as well as a faint and pleasant chalkiness. On the palate, brilliant black cherries give way to licorice and menthol. The tannins are very sweet and ripe on this wine, the balance of the fruit and acid is superb. This is a gorgeous wine, still drinking rather young, but with the stuffing for 10-15+ years of fabulous drinking ahead. 93 pts.
  
  Tasted again 2 days later from this partially consumed bottle. 91% Cab Sauv, 5% Cab Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. 69% new French oak. Mint, chocolate, and spice are immediately noticeable on this wine's nose. The heat from the alcohol is no longer prominent, and the really ripe cherries are still there, but moved to the background. Nose shows some definite pedigree with this change. On the palate, the tasting note above is still quite accurate, however, the tannins are significantly more velvety today, as this wine is now firing on all cylinders. Superb wine. I now know why this is one of Rini's favorites. 94 pts.

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Tight and delicious. An exercise in trying to predict the future of these wines, as we train our palates. Tasted in tandem with chateaubriand, excellently prepared by Skip. It was a perfect match to these gorgeous wines. Far Niente donated by Francis and Rini.

• 2006 Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Éloge 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Decanted 3+ hours prior to tasting. This wine looks black as night. It does not appear to lighten at the edge. The nose offers up aromas of green pepper and mocha, followed by rich cassis fruit. Obviously too young to really be hitting it's stride, but there's alot in here trying to get out. In the mouth, very tightly knit wine, with chocolate giving way to bright cherry fruit. Lovely balance, with a hint of mint, leading into a long and supple finish. A beautiful mouthfeel to this wine that is worth mentioning. 93 pts.
  
  Tasted again 2 days later from this partially consumed bottle. 65% Cab Sauv, 25% Cab Franc, 7% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. 90% new French oak. Now I see that the greenness on the nose was from all that Cab Franc! Some spice, wet stones, and meaty scents lead into the cassis fruit profile. I have always felt that the CVV wines had some of the most amazing velvety mouthfeel of any wines in California, and this Eloge is no slouch in that department. Notes of leather, cassis, black currant, and herbaceous green pepper, lead the way, parting into a finish that is near-perfect, with thick and chewy youthful tannins that are brilliantly reined in and balanced by the acidity and fruit (this Spiderman wine understands that with great power comes great responsibility). A very slight hotness on the palate keeps me from going up two more points, but I'm gonna need to eek this wine up another point after letting it come into it's own over a few days. 94 pts.

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• 2006 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Sympathy 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District

  The wine is blue-black. It offers up an interesting array of tobacco leaf, with a chalky and minty quality, leading into the ripe cassis fruit. Smells pretty yummy so far. On the palate, there is a sweetness to this wine on the entry (perhaps alcohol?), giving way to mint and vanilla, followed by black cherry, licorice, and spice. The early sweetness changes into a nice, moderate astringency from the solid tannins. Quite lively on the palate, a very good wine. 92 pts.
  
  Tasted 2 days later from this partially consumed bottle. 98% Cab Sauv, 2% Cab Franc. 75% new French oak. 15% alc (the highest of the night). I think the higher alcohol was indeed what I was getting as sweetness during the blind tasting. Interesting. Licorice, spicy black pepper, and black currant fruit on the nose. Certainly some mint as well. On the palate, I sense more alcoholic heat on this wine (since I now know it is there). Delicious ripened dark fruits including plums and cassis, with a few other flavors like blackberry and a little jamminess that is slightly over the top for me. This is a great effort, a bit too ripe for my current taste, but super nonetheless for what it can achieve. Will drink well for a decade or more. Score stays at 92 pts.

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• 2006 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Solari 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Deep, brooding purple in color. Nose first reminds me of vanilla, then a lighter red currant fruit, with a little heat that is apparent. On the palate, this wine is lovely, showing bright cherries, cassis, and black currant fruits, with vanilla flavors repeating from the nose. There is a satisfying, dry finish to the firm tannins. 93 pts.
  
  Tasted 2 days later from this partially consumed bottle. 100% Cab Sauv, aged in 78% new French oak. 14.8% alc. Still a little hot on the nose, but perhaps it's the strong mint or pepper I'm sensing. Also lots of cassis and black currant now on the nose. The wine is so supple and perfectly balanced on the palate, with an underlying verve and liveliness that was rare, even in the lineup of wines tasted this evening. The finish goes on forever, showing a streak of minerals and stone as the fruit goes on and on and on. This wine will be turning into something oh so special in years to come. 94 pts.

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• 2006 Larkmead Vineyards LMV Salon 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Very dark purple in color, completely opaque. A nose showing soil-driven aromas upfront, leading into aromas of black cherry fruit. The palate shows a full bodied wine that is both fresh and lively, of course still very tightly wound at this point, with tart cherry fruit leading into a very nice finish, which will surely open up even more as it gains some bottle age. 92 pts.
  
  This was was tasted 2 days later from this partially consumed bottle. 62% Cab Sauv, 14% Cab Franc, 11% Merlot, 11% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot. Aged in 70% new French oak. 14.8% alc. The Cab Franc is offering up those soil-driven aromas I initially sensed, adding some complexity. The wine is hotter on the nose today, covering up the beautiful scents that are otherwise in there. With enough swirling, I can get past the heat and pull out notes of mint, wet soil, deep black currant, and mild vanilla. This wine is so brilliant on the palate, with black cherry notes and mocha, and an astringency that dries the mouth, ready for another drink. Still so very tight, but as these tannins start to loosen their grip and the fruit is allowed to escape, my crystal ball tells me that this will turn into something very special. 93 points.

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Compliments of the Skipper.

• NV Broadbent Madeira Five Year Reserve 89 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  This was consumed from a full bottle that was initially opened and half-consumed about a month ago. A pretty, light orange-brown color. Nose of moist wood, figs, prunes/raisins, and nuts. Smells quite complex. This wine is very dry on the palate, with flavors echoing from the nose, including those figs and prunes, along with a nice tobacco/leather component. The finish is medium in length and also very dry, with tight tannins that leave your mouth yearning for another sip. This wine warms you right up while watching the snow fall outside. A super QPR. As I said before, I'll be keeping a bottle of this open in the cellar through the winter months.

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Wow, lots of wines were tasted tonight. More than I've ever opened at one tasting. Left at least 1/3 of each bottle to taste in a few days, to follow the progression and evolution that I have only recently come to realize and appreciate. I was hard on Parker in my opening comments, but Mr. Parker was responsible for introducing me to my wine of the night...the Seavey. Both the 1995 and the 2004 were delicious, complex, and I will continue to build my vertical collection of their wines for years to come. The Conn Valley has been a long standing favorite of mine as well, and I so enjoyed my time tasting personally with Todd Anderson in his winery cave. I will continue to support his winery as well. I have not had Far Niente many times, nor the Ridge Monte Bello, but these wines were beyond impressive, and would be welcome, ageworthy additions to any cellar. The Larkmead wines were amazing, but perhaps a bit overly ripe for my current taste. Delicious nonetheless.

I look forward to future tastings where we will try the lower priced, $25-50 California Cabernets to find more of the delicious alternatives to the expensive collector's items listed above. The neat thing about learning to trust yourself, and drink the wines you like, rather than high scoring wine, is that you can drink better, more interesting and elegant wines that you enjoy and look forward to sharing. And they are cheaper!

As Steven Stills said, "Love the wine you're with."

Salute.