Dreamtasting #1

10 winefreaks select 10 bottles of 'dream'-wine from each others' cellar (marked *).
Of course, the table is always abundantly supplemented by several (blinded) ringers.
Wines tasted blind, except where noted.

• 1990 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  (*, open label) This is a breathtaking glass of Champagne... The complexity is dazzling and beautifully layered. Nutty oxidation nuances, interesting herbaceousness (fennel? anise?), tuffi-frutti, bread-n-butter, baked pears, drying paint. Extremely fine, frivolous and delicate mousse. After 20 years this is still a youngster, good freshness and spirit. Completely dry, but due to its richness and composition it's certainly not tart or austere. The mouthfeel is soft, rich and refreshing. Enormous length and persistent harmony till the very end. Best bubbles ever.. 19/20

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• 2009 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  This wine gathers raving reports in my tasting group and they claim that this is the best young (newly released) wine they ever tasted. So consequently we all bought some... Today was my first, blinded, encounter with this "soon to be legendary Riesling" (certainly not my last) and I must admit: this really is something! Of course, it is still an infant but it has 'thoroughbred' written all over it. Bouquet is the essence of Riesling, proudly showing citrus fruit, apples, pears and stony minerality. The architecture, structure and stuffing of this youngster is already very impressive. Sense of sweetness is perfect for a dry wine: it's not perceptible as sweetness but only rounds off the gentle and perfectly ripe acidity. This is a total Masterpiece and will probably be at its best in 2- 4 years time, but will easily keep for 10. For now 18.5/20, destined to gain in rating.

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• 2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  (*, open label) This was one clenched fist of unforgiving power and strength and took a long time in the glass to unfurl. I mainly was impressed by the unforgettable bouquet. Intoxicating nose of spices like cinnamon, mace/nutmeg and vanilla, sappy tropical fruit sorbet of banana, pine-apple and peach. Also something faintly resinous, pine needle-like in the back. At this moment I thought the oak-dosage was a little too much, but that will definately mellow in time. On the palate it showes beautiful acidity and strength, but it has a hard time to show what its got. This wine clearly was too young, and it will take a few years for all the complexity and harmony to fuse and melt into something otherworldly. Right now it has the slightly clumsy behaviour of a prince, who is just a little bit too young to carry the wealth and descent. But someday he will be king. 18,5/20

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• 1990 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale 94 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières

  Beautiful concentration, very unctuous but not cloying mouthfeel. Fruit is still fresh and, of course, very ripe and juicy. Interesting vegetal aromas of fresh garden herbs, fennel and steamed vegetables (carrots, peas, string beans). Also some earthy, sweaty, outdoorsy impressions. Great, great wine in its prime drinking window, but with lots of future. 18,5/20

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• 1988 Château Lafite Rothschild 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Very floral and lots of barnyard. In the mouth the fruit is starting to dry a little, reveling aromas of dried cranberries and currents, figs and cherries. Easily recognisable as a classic, mature and high class Bordeaux. Soft as silk, very elegant, almost feminine take on Pauillac. Splendid! 18.5/20

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• 1994 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 91 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  (*, open label) Strange, maybe slightly oxidative nose, which is hard to get past. After extended aeration this odd nose seems to blow off and reveals a nose with the classic, traditional feel of oak, blackberries and cassis. On the palate it's still slightly aggressive and uncontrolled. Huge, piercing acidity and heaps of minerality. Unfortunately on this occasion the wine seems slightly locked or out of balance. Its class is obvious, but hard to discover at the moment. 17.5-18/20

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• 2007 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus-Ex Machina 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  (*, open label) Penetrating, alcoholic nose of redcurrentliquor ('Coebergh') and kirsch. Finish is extremely hot too. Sorry to say, but this is not my kind wine. It's top-heavy and tilting. Class and quality is recognisable by the clarity and purity of fruit, which is really gorgeous. Problem for me is: no complexity or depth, it's all breadth and showing-off. Pass. 16.5/20, only because I was caught by its lovely fruit.

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• 2003 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée da Capo 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  (*, open label) Incredible and engaging nose. Earthy, barnyard, dark fruit in the background, sweet and spicy. Lovely mature notes, beautiful evolution and already in good shape to drink, which surprised me a little. In comparison with the preceding Deus 07 this does has a lot more complexity. Nevertheless this is a concentrated monster of a wine, very dark, heavy and gloomy. At this age there is no grace or finesse yet, but that might evolve in a couple of years time. Lovely chateauneuf to drink now, but will improve over the next few years. 18/20

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• 2001 Château Bellevue Mondotte 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  Great definition and precision in its aromatics, corpulent and concentrated. Inky school-paint in the nose. Also creamy vanilla, black cherry and fresh coffee, extra dark chocolate. Ultra modern and could be from anywhere. But it's well designed and convincing. Have no idea what 3 years of cellaring will do to this baby... 17,5/20

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• 2003 Château Cos d'Estournel 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Wow, delicious. The herbal component has a bold, rugged, 'outdoor' quality, and there's a lots of espresso, cocoa beans, clay and sweet and ripe black fruit. Due to the vintage this is quite a warm wine, not excessively hot. It's not spinning out. Fantastic marriage of old world traditions and new world swagger. Magnificent. 19/20

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• 2007 Antica Terra Pinot Noir 89 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  Pinot colour, Grenache-like bouquet of crisp fresh cherry fruit, wild strawberries. Fresh and kinda sweetish. Nice wine, but not very profound at the moment. Some would say monolithic. Has a hard time in this line-up and is probably too young. 17/20

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• 2006 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Pays d'Hérault 95 Points

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pays d'Hérault

  This is a great wine emitting valiant Syrah-characteristics on the nose. On the palate is velvety soft and lush, although it's sturdy and sinewy enough to breathe a sufficient classical air. Tightly bundled, young complexity and it already shows good depth for such a succulent young wine. Peppered blackberries, orangepeel, hint of tea and coffee, ceder, balsamic notes. What a discovery. Best QPR-wine on the table tonight. 18.5-19/20

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• 2001 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 98 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  It's been awhile since the last time that a single wine was firing on all cylinders for me! This one did it. It grabbed me by the scruff and kept on giving me goosebumps. Stunningly complex, soft and mature nose with hints of potpourri, dried cherries and cranberries, beefstock, cinnamon, dried italian herbs. The aromas are changing colour, pace and mood all the time. Very hard to take a sip, because I did not want to miss a single sniff of this kaleidoscopic bouquet.
  Needless to say that this is the pinnacle of elegance and has nothing to do with the flashy, swanky and boisterous wines we encounter so often these days. It's already nearly perfect and I guess it will take 3 more years to hit the max. 19,5/20

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• 2002 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace 96 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley

  (*, open label) My God. We don't often get this level of elegance and grace in a New World Icon.... Breathtaking complexity on top of archetypical Australian echoes of menthol, eucalyptus and peppered blackberries, which are not overbearing. No, those nuances seem very decidedly chosen, measured and positioned. The finish is everlasting, fresh and clean and this is why this powerful wine leaves such a charming, seductive yet lightfooted impression. A real gem and truly singular in the Wolrd of Wine. 19/20

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• 1994 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Sonoma Mountain 89 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain

  It was a brave attempt, but our 'favorite ringer' Laurel Glen suffered from its position in the line-up. It seemed a tad simple and bleak. Still abundantly fruity, it also showes bacon and earthy echoes. The touch of sweetness remains very charming and keeps it likeable. Finish starts to get a little dry. So drink up. 17/20

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• 2003 Sine Qua Non Syrah Papa 92 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast

  (*, open label) Smoke, bacon, ink, blackberries, pure and focussed. New world-Syrah on steroids. Very broad, complex and concentrated. Impressive stuff. Only drawback: its slightly hot on the finish... I definately have too little references on these kind of wines. Takes time to get used to them...18/20

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• 2004 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT 96 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  (*, open label) Extremely well made wine that could do with a little more typicité, but definately impresses as a complete and complex work of art. Could be mistaken for a modern-styled Pomerol, although the fresh cranberry-like acidity is something I often pick up in Tuscan reds. Soft and plummy fruit, hefty and masculine structure. Tannines are firm and slightly rough, of course, 'cause it so young. A very pure, focussed and lofty expression of Merlot. The future is bright, but it's already so damn tasty and mesmerizing. Awesome! 19/20

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• 1967 Château d'Yquem 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  (*, open label) Oh dear. Such a pity, a suboptimal bottle. The colour gave that away immediately. Brown like cold tea or cola. Bouquet is maderisé, nutty, fudge, tart apple syrup. Palate reveals a lovely sweet and sour balance, but also molasses, coffee, toffee, grilled nectarines. At first I wouldn't score the wine, but when pushed to rate it, it would be a 17/20.

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• 1966 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional 94 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  The balance of this port is the best part. Stunning. Everything in its place and destined to stay there for another 20 years or so. Alcohol is covered by complexity and restrained sweetness. Bouquet and aromatics are clear, fresh, bright. Fruit is still pretty primary, but there are also beautifully layered secondary flavors like macaroons, pine nuts, milk-chocolate covered strawberries, Asian spice and marzipan. Behind this scope, in the far back, there are some developing nuances of ash, cigarbox, mushrooms on toast. Fabulous port! 18.5/20

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To complete this evening we also dusted some other bottles: 1984 KEO St. John Commandaria Cyprus, 2008 (?) Barroche Fiancée, 2005 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis and 2000 Greenock Creek Apricot Block.
They were all remarkable and certainly above-average but I didn't take notes anymore at that time of the night...

Personal WOTN: 2001 Case Basse Soldera Brunello Riserva
Other wines to look out for: 2006 Grange des Peres, 2002 Henschke Hill of Grace