The Medlar, London
Tasted Tuesday, January 17, 2012 by SimonG with 612 views
White onion soup with sautéed chantrelles, braised chicken wings and cheese straw
Fragrant, classy red berry fruit on the nose. Still some crunch here, deep red fruit. Scented with good lift. Very easy and pretty. ***1/2
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A little deeper and dustier than the Cherbaudes on the nose. Lovely again, slightly fuller and rounder than the Cherbaudes with a sense if lushness too. Strong for the vintage. Lovely. As Jeremey says, sexy. ****
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Slightly deeper colour and nose. The CO2 more obvious here with a sense of spritz on the nose. Quite a tight, slightly high toned character. Needs to relax a bit. Darker. ***(*)
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Rounder and meatier and slightly lighter on the nose. Very smooth and mellow. Nicely mineral with decent length. ***1/2
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Guinea fowl with potato gnochi, Jerusalem artichocke, spring onion and reblochon
Quite an evolved, slightly funky, feral, animale nose, though it does calm down in the glass. Nicely mineral. Not quite the depth of the Combes. ***1/2
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More harmonious. Slightly sweeter, verging towards a touch of caramel. Sweet, smooth, harmonious. Moderate length. Retains it's poise. A nice line too. Lovely. ****
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Slightly rounder, mellower nose. Quite rounded and smooth across the attack but initially this doesn't have much depth or length. A little diffuse though it does pick up. Bare ****
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Denser on the nose. A touch lactic. More structured onthe atatck, nicely mineral. A depth and seriousness here even if it's holding its breath at the moment. ***(*1/2)
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Ox tongue and heart with caramelised endive tart, roast cèpes, garlic and sauce poivrade
Quite rounded, sweet, a touch feral. Quite mineral and structured on the palate. Moe structured. ***1/2
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Sweet, quite structured. Some how it doesn't stand out cf the Goulots, but there is a little moe her if you search. A little more open fruited and very drinkable. Bare ****
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Sneaky, a second bottle. In general, sweeter thanthe CSJ and initially there seems to be an extra layer of density. More weight, more depth. Initially I wonder whether this is the Griottes, but when Rupert reveals a second Goulots, the mind does the rest and this converges to be very similar to the first bottle. Still, a bit more here perhaps. ***1/2
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Seems noticeably younger than the other 98s in the flight. Denser, tighter, more mineral. Griottes. An extra evel of minerality and concentration here. ***(*)
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Tarte tatin with crème fraîche ice cream
Mid gold. Quite spicey and a touch arm. More medicinal than sweet. Ripe and quite unctuous. A touch of barley sugar, quite medicinal. For me more interesting than pleasurable. ***1/2
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1990 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année 94 Points
France, Champagne
Lovely deep golden yellow colour. Nicely rich. Full. A touch of ginger and spice. Good body. Lovely. Reasonably advanced but everything where it should be and showing well. Nicely fresh on the finish and with very decent length. ****1/2
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