St. Estephe Night

After a terrible time getting this tasting scheduled, we finally attempted the St Estephe tasting. Unfortunately, we had some last minute drop outs, and the ’59 Montrose (with an amazing fill!) was withdrawn to share with others later. So, most of the usual crowd, with Mike O and Sandra, Myself and Rachael, Dave L and Marlene, and Tim M and joined this time by Joe B, got together to taste some St. Estephe with focus on Montrose. Most of the wines were decanted upon arrival and followed over several hours. The ’03 Cos and ’81 Montrose were decanted ahead of time by 2-3hrs.

• 2010 Château Lafon-Rochet Bordeaux Rosé Lafon-Roset 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Rosé

  Still trying to understand rose. This was very pleasant, with a nose hinting of raspberry, with a steely fresh palate finishing with subtle rose petal and stone flavors. Quite nice.

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• 1961 Château Meyney 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Mild bricking, though much more crimson than the ’66 lafon Rochet. A wonderfully expressive wine, with floral aromatics mixed with the sweetness of someone smoking a pipe nearby. Completely mature fruit with a caramel quality on the palate and a menthol edge. Finished with a medium length, not terribly complex finish, still showing some dry tannin. Over the course of the evening this became more flamboyant, with sweeter fruit and less tobacco. A truly memorable wine, which points and words do not fully capture.

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• 1966 Château Lafon-Rochet 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Decanted for sediment and enjoyed over several hours. Bricking, almost brown color. Nose a little faded at first, but after an hour or so showing some vinyl, menthol and mature dried fruit and leather. Mature fruit on the palate, little tannin, quite soft with caramel and pipe tobacco. Moderate finish, a little simple and fruit driven, but still very much alive. A real treat to have a mature wine of this vintage, while probably past peak, still showing quite well. An experience more so than a complex wine. Much more enjoyable than the parker note would lead you to believe (though not a great wine).

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• 2003 Château Cos d'Estournel 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Tasted after a 90min decant and was quite closed (reportedly more open upon opening) with prominent alcohol. Later opened up some with a black current nose, roasted coffee, and tobacco leaf, dropping the alcohol. Palate was silky smooth with fine very polished tannins, massively concentrated still primary fruit and leading into a very tannic almost dry finish of tar, burnt coffee, cocoa, and toasty oak. Oak shows on this one. A theoretical blend of ‘89/’90 with the exotic concentrated fruit of the ’90 but the roasted/tarry secondary notes of the ’89. I’m not sure it’s better than either, but polished and seamless in a modern leaning style.

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• 1981 Château Montrose

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Later this was showing definite TCA, but after only an hour in the decanter was showing a light herbal/sage nose with some green pepper. Palate was mostly devoid of fruit, with a green herbal and pepper edge. Somewhat short mineral finish, and was a little over the hill. Almost undrinkable later due to the TCA.

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• 1989 Château Cos d'Estournel 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Splash decanted and continues to improve through the evening. Initially quite closed and tannic. Nose with a mild vinyl character, roasted coffee and very dark fruit with a tarry asphalt undertone. Palate was still quite tannic, with enough freshness on the otherwise dark currant profile. Many secondary notes of roasted Italian coffee, tar, and smoke. Lengthy tannic finish, showing more of the same secondary characteristics. Still youthful and tannic, needing time to reach peak, though good with a couple hours air. My #2 of the night. 93-95

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• 1990 Château Cos d'Estournel 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Splash decanted and followed over several hours. Initially quite shy nose, but eventually showing some black currants and plum with touch of mint—very dark fruit profile. Palate was rather smooth, with fine polished tannins(similar to ’03), and very dark deep fruit, though lacking the exotic quality of the ’90 Montrose. This was certainly ripe and concentrated, but balanced. Lacking many of the roasted/charcoal/tar character of the ’89. Finishes with plum and currants, with spices. Still very young and this bottle just didn’t seem ready. Will never reach the heights of the ’90 Montrose, and I preferred the ’89 as I just couldn’t get excited about this one with the great lineup we had. This seemed to show a lot of merlot(though same percentage as ’89) with dark concentrated fruit and I think it really needs more time.

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• 1990 Château Montrose 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  My clear wine of the night, and most of the group agreed. Splash decanted and enjoyed over several hours. No brett or barnyard at all. Expressive flamboyant nose from the initial pour, filled with menthol, spice, exotic ripe currants and plums. Palate was impressive for it’s depth and complexity, carrying the menthol note with impressively concentrated black fruit with a definite liquor-like exotic quality that was so fascinating. On the verge of being overdone and over ripe, but walks back from that line with a balanced, nuanced presentation, with power and elegance. Long long finish adding with cedar spice, mocha, with the menthol note being the last to fade. So young and flamboyant(and tannic), probably not at peak, but drinking so well. Is this where the ’03 will go? Head and tails above the other wines this night.

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• 1958 Château Montrose

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Quite brown in the glass. Nose of mint and bell pepper. Palate was a little thin, mildly austere tannins showing nutty almond fruit. Short finish with mineral. Clearly over the hill, but still nicely expressive of place with good poise. A great wine to have in this vertical. Given more pleasure by the experience of the '58 vintage and sense of place and time than as a great wine.

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• 1970 Château Montrose 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Splash decanted, this grew on me through the evening. Darkly colored with no bricking! Incredible youthful appearance. Initially with a slightly medicinal nose with a bit of funk. Palate was rather austere and quite tannic, with a green edge. Moderate finish, of stone and almonds. Later the palate softened and fleshed out, with an herbal/pepper/and dried fruit edge and touch of iron. My last sip was the best. I wonder if this is how the ‘86’s will turn out.

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• 1996 Château Montrose 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  So youthful compared to the other Montrose. Never decanted but followed over several hours. Expressive nose from the get go, with definite barnyard funk, black currants and espresso. Palate was sharply define, quite tannic, but lush dark fruit, mild bell pepper and a tannic dry finish than hangs on the palate with a cedar and espresso edge. This is really put together nicely, but will need another decade to soften based on the other wines in this tasting.

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• 1989 Château Montrose Flawed

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Terrible looking cork, with signs of seepage when the foil was removed. Low neck fill too. Terribly TCA ridden and undrinkable.

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• 1977 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 92 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Decanted a couple hours. I am some others were put off slightly by the alcohol on the nose. Nutty, with almonds and caramel on the nose. Fine palate, trying to open but still densely layered with some primary fruit, fig, and spices. Hung on the palate for a long time. Some described a nail polish/acetone character--I didn't get that or I wouldn't have enjoyed it.

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• 2003 Niepoort Porto Vintage 94 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  I really prefered this to the Taylor, despite the youth. Wonderful primary nose of dark fruits and caramel. No alcohol at all. Beautiful, densely concentrated palate, with gobs of dark frui--plum and currant-- but balanced with plenty of coarse tannins and an incredibly long finish. So young and primary, but the concentration, depth and balance were impressive. I'd drink more port if they were all like this. Love to see this in 30yrs.

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A phenomenal tasting (again!) with fantastic roast and potatoes. Cherry and Pecan pies were fantastic as well, my preference toward the pecan. The ’89 Montrose was unfortunately corked, otherwise it would have been a great lineup of ‘89/’90 Cos. Montrose certainly can have some impressive highs with the ’90 and I have high hopes for my ‘96’s, though these wines can clearly become austere and “lack” fruit. The ’61 Meyney and ’66 Lafon Rochet were a real treat, and I doubt I’ll ever get to experience these wines again. Clearly expressing vintage and terrior.
Big thanks to the group, such generosity all around make this a special group of friends. (I’ll try not to bring corked wine next time.)