Union des Grands Grus 2009 Bordeaux Tasting

Petersen Automotive Museum, Los Angeles
Tasted Friday, January 20, 2012 by MattTM with 1,598 views

Introduction

I think it must be said upfront, the 2009's did in fact live up to the hype. While there were some average wines in the room, the quality across the board was fantastic and there were some real stunners in this group, and no real stinkers. At least from the wines I tried.

This was my second time attending the UGC event hosted by Wally's Wine & Spirits, and while I was thrilled with the wines, I was extremely disappointing with how the tasting was organized. Poor crowd control at the entrance, limited spit buckets, no pourers at the tables when the doors were opened, and lacking clear signage.

When the doors were first opened, it was a bull rush to get in and grab a glass, then with no pourers manning the stations, the crowd turned to pouring their own wines. With an already light supply of wine to feed the massive crowd, this further reduced the stock and most of the good wines were finished by the end of the first hour.

I decided to taste Pauillac first, my favorite region, then move onto Saint Julien. Unfortunately this means I missed out on a lot of my favorites, especially the big guns from Pomerol and Margaux.

I was surprised by the showing of the whites, which were all very good, as well as the Sauternes. While the reds from 2009 have been heralded, the whites have somewhat gone under the radar.

Flight 1 - Pessac-Léognan (9 Notes)

  • 2009 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Beautiful nose of fresh citrus and a hint of tropical fruits, along with a grassy aroma blended in. Tart citrus shows strong on the palate, as well as crushed stones, grass, pineapple, lychee, and a hit of oak. Gripping acidity, with a somewhat oily texture. Seemed a bit shut down to me, but was still showing the quality you can expect from this estate. Very good.

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  • 2009 Domaine de Chevalier

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Rich and concentrated on the nose, giving off aromas of freshly ground coffee beans, black pepper, tar, and cassis. Some tartness on the palate, showing plum, red cherry, black currants, and black pepper. Quite dense and concentrated on the palate, this is a big wine. Silky tannins, with a medium finish ending with a note of cranberry. Good.

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  • 2009 Château Haut-Bailly

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Gorgeous rich nose showing tons of spice - black pepper, black cherry, floral, prune, asphalt, and graphite. The strong showing of spice carries through on the palate, along with lead pencil, black plum and black cherry. Dense, gripping tannins, and tons of acidity. Medium+ finish, ending with notes of graphite and black plum. I really enjoyed this. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Haut-Bergey Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Fabulous nose of bitter papaya seeds, tropical fruits, cantaloupe, and lime zest. On the palate the sweet papaya follows through, along with toasted oak, lemon juice, and melon. Nice acidity, with a long finish ending with notes of papaya and lemon. A great showing for this humble wine, this was hitting way above its weight class. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Haut-Bergey

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Rich nose of cassis, toasted oak, black currants, and red cherries. Lots of spice - black pepper and clove on the palate, along with black cherries, black plums, currants, and coffee. Moderate tannin, with a medium finish ending with a note of black pepper. While this was nice, it came off as being fairly simple. Good.

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  • 2009 Château Pape Clément Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A very nice papaya seed aroma on the nose, as well as lime juice, melon, and some floral notes. A touch of grass on the palate, along with crushed rocks and toasted oak. This was oily in texture, with a medium+ finish ending with notes of oak and grass. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Pape Clément

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Beautiful rich nose of dark dried fruits, asphalt, black pepper, toasted oak, and coffee. Tons of black pepper come through on the palate, along with black cherry, cassis, asphalt, graphite, toasted oak, and a touch of mint. Moderate tannins, with a medium+ finish ending with notes of cassis and black pepper. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Huge nose of fresh sweet papaya, bitter papaya seeds, lime, and tropical fruits. Delicious smelling nose. Tons more papaya follow through on the palate, along with lime, almond, toasted oak, and a touch of grass. Very creamy in texture, and quite complex. Long finish, ending with notes of papaya and lime. Fantastic.

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  • 2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Rich nose, with lots of black pepper and clove spice upfront, followed by red cherry, cassis, some floral aromas and smoke. As well quite smokey on the palate, along with tart red currants, lots of spice -black pepper and clove, toasted oak, and black plum. High acidity, with mouth numbing tannins. Medium+ finish, ending with notes of clove and oak. Very good.

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Flight 2 - St. Émilion (2 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Rich and concentrated on the nose, showing freshly ground coffee beans, cedar, graphite, black plums, and a touch of black pepper. Lots of lead pencil on the palate, along with sweet cassis, toasted oak, black plum, and mocha. Dusty tannins, with a medium+ finish ending with notes of cassis and espresso. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Pavie Macquin

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Very concentrated on the nose, showing cassis, cedar, mint, a medicinal aroma, and some herbal characteristics. Dense on the palate, and once again displaying herbs, menthol, asphalt, black plums, leather, and a rubber bandaid note. Medium finish, ending with notes of leather and black plums. This bottle had some funk to it and I'm convinced it was slightly off, especially after reading the other notes on this wine. Withholding judgement.

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Flight 3 - Haut-Médoc (1 Note)

  • 2009 Château La Lagune

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Rich nose of espresso, black plums, black cherries, some floral aromas and black pepper. Concentrated on the palate, showing black cherries, lot of black pepper, plums, cassis, and a touch of mint. Tons of tannin, with a medium+ finish ending with notes of black pepper and currants. Very good.

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Flight 4 - Margaux (1 Note)

  • 2009 Château Cantenac Brown

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Concentrated on the nose, displaying aromas of violet, fresh coffee beans, red cherry, and black plums. Tons of red cherry on the palate, along with freshly ground coffee beans, toasted oak, and spice - black pepper. Medium- finish ending with notes of violet and coffee beans. Good.

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Flight 5 - St. Julien (8 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Beychevelle

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Lots of violet upfront on the nose, followed by coffee beans, graphite, red cherry, and mint. A bit of heat on the palate, displaying espresso, black plums, asphalt, and lead pencil. Moderate tannins, with a medium finish ending with notes of graphite and espresso. Good.

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  • 2009 Château Branaire-Ducru

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Light and elegant on the nose, displaying aromas of black pepper spice, black plums, black currants, along with some mint. Lots of black pepper on the palate, along with black plum, asphalt, cassis, and herbs. Sandy tannins, with a medium finish ending with notes of herbs and black pepper. Quite simple without a lot of complexity. Good.

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  • 2009 Château Gloria

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    A bit restrained on the nose, displaying coffee, toasted oak, asphalt, and mint. More body comes through on the palate, showing a hefty amount of spice, red cherry, black plum, smokey oak, coffee, and tart red currants. Dusty tannins, with a medium finish ending with notes of red currants and coffee. Good.

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  • 2009 Château Gruaud Larose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Great nose giving off aromas of fresh coffee beans, asphalt, leather, black cherry, black plum, herbs, and some spice. More coffee beans come through on the palate, along with saddle leather, lead pencil, black cherry, and some herbs. Moderate tannins, with a medium+ finish ending with notes of herbs and lead pencil. A nice wine, this showed really well. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Léoville Barton

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Beautiful, rich nose, showing cassis, lead pencil shavings, tar, black cherry, black plum, and toasted oak. More lead pencil on the velvety palate, along with cedar, asphalt, black currant, earth, and lots of black cherry and black plum. A ton of gripping tannins, with a long finish ending with notes of black cherry and lead pencil. Another great Barton. Fantastic.

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  • 2009 Château Léoville Poyferré

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Great nose, showing tons of richness and concentration. Aromas of fresh coffee beans, black cherry, black plums, cassis, graphite, and blackberry. Lost of black cherry follow through on the palate, along with roasted coffee beans, black currants, toasted oak, lead pencil, and tobacco. Plenty of sandy tannins, with a long finish ending with notes of currants and toasted oak. A stunner, one of the top wines of the night. Fantastic.

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  • 2009 Château Saint-Pierre

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Tons of freshly ground coffee beans on the nose, along with rich black fruits, sweet cassis, toasted oak, and graphite. Slightly sweet on the palate, showing cassis, lead pencil, red cherry, espresso, and a hint of mint. Medium finish, ending with notes of black currants and fresh mint. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Talbot

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Tons of barnyard on the nose, along with aromas of leather, black cherries, dark plums, black pepper spice, graphite, and cassis. Lots of saddle leather upfront on the palate, as well as a good amount of black cherries, lead pencil, cedar, and dark berries. Dusty tannins, with a medium+ finish ending on a note of saddle leather. Very good.

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Flight 6 - Pauillac (5 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Clerc Milon

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Rich nose of violets, graphite, crushed stones, black pepper spice, and anise. A bit of tart plum upfront on the palate, followed by red cherries, asphalt, black currants, and lead pencil. Gripping tannins, with a medium+ finish ending on a note of cassis. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Lots of barnyard on the nose, followed by saddle leather, black cherry, and lead pencil. More earthy barnyard on the palate, along with black cherries, dark plums, lead pencil shavings, and a ton of leather. Dusty tannins, with a medium finish ending on a note of lead pencil. Maybe this was a bit closed, but to be honest I was underwhelmed on this showing. Good.

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  • 2009 Château Lynch-Bages

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Fantastic nose displaying aromas of barnyard, dark dried fruits, black plums, red cherries, and graphite. Luscious on the palate, giving off lots of lead pencil, saddle leather, barnyard, tart red currants, rounded out by some black pepper spice. Sandy tannins, with a medium+ finish ending with notes of lead pencil and cassis. A beautiful wine that blows the '08 clear out of the water. Seductive, this was my favorite wine on the evening. Outstanding.

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  • 2009 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Gorgeous nose of freshly roasted coffee beans, lead pencil, black cherries, dark plums, asphalt, and cassis. Lots of complexity and layers on the nose. Great structure on the palate, displaying lead pencil shavings, cassis, red currants, dark cherries, black plums, and a good dose of espresso. Lots of gripping tannins, along with a long finish ending with notes of espresso and lead pencil. A great wine, and if it wasn't for the Lynch-Bages on this evening, this would have been my wine of the tasting. Fantastic.

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  • 2009 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Beautiful slightly restrained nose displaying aromas of lead pencil, black cherry, dark plum, and come floral characteristics. On the palate, more lead pencil, black cherry, black currants, cedar, and a touch of asphalt. Very well balanced, with a ton of structure, and mouth numbing tannins. Long finish, ending with notes of graphite and black cherry. A fabulous wine, in my top 3 of the night next to the Lynch-Bages and Pichon Baron. Fantastic.

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Flight 7 - St. Estèphe (1 Note)

  • 2009 Château Phélan Ségur

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Rich nose displaying aromas of freshly ground coffee beans, dark plums, leather, and asphalt. Showing a bit of heat on the palate, along with espresso, sweet cassis, dark plum, and black cherry.Medium+ finish, ending with notes of espresso and dark plums. Good.

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Flight 8 - Barsac & Sauternes (6 Notes)

  • 2009 Château Climens

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Beautiful nose of cantaloupe, orange zest, honey, caramel, and some floral characteristics mixed in. Luscious on the tongue showing sweet honeysuckle, caramel, melon, orange marmalade, roasted almonds, and a touch of bitter coffee bean. Nice acidity, and a long finish ending on a note of caramel. Fantastic.

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  • 2009 Château Coutet Barsac

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    A gorgeous, seductive nose of sweet honeysuckle, orange marmalade, pineapple, and a touch of lemon zest. Viscous and dense on the palate, displaying fresh honey, candied orange peel, caramel, and salty toffee. Great acidity, and a long finish ending with notes of caramel and clove spice. As usually, this was extremely enjoyable and showing very well young. Fantastic.

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  • 2009 Château de Rayne-Vigneau

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Some nice floral aromas on the nose, along with honeysuckle, orange marmalade, caramel, almonds, and a hint of spice. More orange marmalade on the palate, as well as caramel and some tropical fruits. A pleasant surprise, and a nice wine for the price. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château Doisy-Daëne

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Much dryer and less sweet than the other Sauternes on the nose, showing lime zest, lemon juice, orange peel, and green apple. Sweeter on the palate, displaying rich caramel, honey, orange marmalade, lemon pie, and cantaloupe. Long finish, ending with notes of cantaloupe and caramel. Always a nice wine for the price. Very good.

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  • 2009 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Peach, apricot, honey, and lime zest on the nose. On the palate, honeysuckle, orange peel, caramel, and a touch of spice rounds everything out. Medium finish ending with notes of orange peel and caramel. Quite simple. Good.

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  • 2009 Château Suduiraut

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Great nose, displaying aromas of lime zest, mandarin orange, apricot, honey, and caramel. Dense on the palate, showing honeysuckle, caramel, lemon curd, orange juice, cantaloupe, and some almond nuttiness. Long finish, ending with notes of lemon curd and caramel. Very good.

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Closing

I really do wish I had a chance to taste more of the wines, which leaves me with mixed feelings on the event.

If I had to pick a top 5 on the evening, they would be

1. 2009 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
2. 2009 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
3. 2009 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
4. 2009 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
5. 2009 Château Coutet - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

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