Vintage Port Masterclass

Although organised by Watson's, a local wine retailer, this was actually a chance for the Vintage Port Academy to convince people in Hong Kong to try more ports - something I would agree with passionately. This is a partnership of the two big port houses, Symington Family Estates (Dow's, Graham's, Warre's), represented on the day by Euan Mackay, and The Fladgate Partnership (Taylor's, Croft, Fonseca), represented by Nick Heath, to promote port drinking around the world. Clearly, between the two of them, they represent most of the higher-end ports. They certainly had passion for the wines and seemed to be enjoying the tasting as much as we did.

• 2003 Croft Porto Vintage 94 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Started the tasting with this. This is mostly from Quinta Rueda which means 'running water' or river. Only decanted 1.5 hours so still alcohol on the nose and a bit closed.
  Very ripe and jammy with exotic, resiny flavours like Eucalyptus. Also plums and other concentrated fruits. Not strong tannins but an alcoholic finish.Quite composed. Just shows that VPs can be drunk when very young before becoming dumb at around 10 years.

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• 2003 Graham Porto Vintage 93 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Another young port. This time dark fruit and licorice, although more muted than the Croft. Spicy palate but the finish is medium.

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• 1994 Dow Porto Vintage 95 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Lighter in colour than the earlier ports, with a little bricking on the edge. Dow is a slightly drier style than the Graham's.
  This felt more balanced to me with higher acid - it was more like drinking wine, if you know what I mean. This is probably still somewhat dumb and needed much longer in glass before it would shine. Of course, really it needs another ten years. Still, very enjoyable from a great port vintage.

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• 1985 Fonseca Porto Vintage 93 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  This is just leaving the dumb adolescent phase and coming into the mature phase. Black fruits, Eucalyptus and menthol.
  Patty really liked this one!

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• 1970 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 96 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Very light ruby red with a delicate nose. Nuts and butterscotch - very interesting. This still looks like it's got plenty of life.

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• 1963 Warre Porto Vintage 98 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Woo hoo!
  Light orange in colour with a nose of nuts, coffee, mocha and burnt caramel. An explosion in the mouth with a similar riot of tastes. Very long lasting. I really liked this, probably because I always enjoy wines that age this well. Although to be fair, if holding, this should be drunk fairly soon.

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I really enjoyed this tasting - I certainly wish there were more ports to be had in Hong Kong. Actually, I think port would go down very well here, for two seemingly contradictory reasons: because the local spicy food is complemented by the sweetness of the port, and the red, tannic wine would appeal to locals who enjoy their spicy foods enhanced by tannic monsters. Kind of a sweet and sour thing - and it's red!