The 2009 Domaine Buisson-Charles Meursaults at Scott Paul

I had read Allen Meadows notes for the 2009 Buisson-Charles Meursaults and was very curious of them... when I heard that Scott Paul Wines was going to be pouring them this weekend I knew I had to be there. Usually young Meursaults don't overly impress me, and I usually pass on them. These, on the other hand, were all dramatic, impressive efforts. I was blown away, and it was the best young Meursault line up I've had. I'm very impressed that they lived up to the press hype!


photo stolen from Scott Wright's twitter feed

• 2009 Buisson-Charles Meursault Vieilles Vignes 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Aromas are really spicy with plenty of hints of oak char. There's some additional texture there, but the spiced oak is quite dominant. Palate entry begins very spicy, but a nice pineapple (and other tropical flavors) begin coming in quickly. Plenty of acid hits hard throughout, with a body that is fairly voluptuous and sexy for this level. Heavy acid and very rich fruit attack quickly on the finish. This shows deep, cutting acid with a slight mineral, saline notion, and noticeable oak flavors. A real pleasure that I'd love to see soften on the oak a bit with some time. Interestingly, this showed the most oak flavors of the whole lineup. 90+

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• 2009 Buisson-Charles Meursault Les Tessons 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Much lighter aromas here, with delicate and soft texture without the oak char. Very soft palate entry, with a more graceful approach than the VV. Spicy acids are present, but they dance lightly. Nothing is in your face on the palate; again, quite graceful. Bigger acids dial up on the finish, and they linger strongly. Soft spiced oak notes, with some nice star fruit developing. The spicy acid is what's really impressive here. Nice, and quite a bit more refined than the VV. 90+

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• 2009 Buisson-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Bouches-Chères 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  This is where things really begin to get killer... the nose is the lightest of the bunch thus far, but you can still sense the elegance. The palate entry is incredible. The purity of fruit flavors is awesome. There's mild acids, tart citrus flavors, but this is rich and concentrated. Really amazing, graceful texture and presence. Burning acids (in a good way) attack on the finish which doesn't evolve as much as the palate may suggest. A bit more closed on the finish overall, but 30 seconds later I get some very fruity lemon flavors. The fruit richness and depth is the hallmark of this wine throughout, though, and one that I kept wanting to savor. The second best of the lineup.

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• 2009 Buisson-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Again, very soft and quiet aromas, with slightly charred oak. Tart rich acids attack on the palate. This is thick, round, and large in texture. It lacks a bit of the fruit of the Bouches-Chères, but is still quite deep, large and rich. Very spicy acids on the finish which are tart and rich. Perhaps the most mineral infused wine of the bunch. Impressive intensity all throughout, but not quite as expressive as the other 1ers today.

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• 2009 Buisson-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  As good as advertised; WOW! The finest young Meursault I've had. The aromas are light and subtle here as well, but there's plenty of intense richness buried beneath that come out on close inspection. The oak is noticeable, but comes across as a delicious sweet caramel aroma. Incredibly rich and soft on the palate, with more of the caramel flavors. The intensity is just awesome! Rich acid, but such opulence and character throughout, with penetrating depth. More up front oak at first on the finish, but after just 5 seconds the acid and minerals take over, and this goes into overdrive with its richness and lingers for some time. The intensity remains with me for minutes later and it feels like my head is going to pop in overload.

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While I was here I figured I might as well taste the red lineup. This was the best "regular" tasting lineup I've had here. The Lafarge Bourgogne Passetoutgrains was absolutely incredible for that level, but again, it is Lafarge after all. The La Paulee and Dix were both better than expected.

• 2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Passetoutgrains L'Exception 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains

  Wow was this good! My favorite Bourgogne Passetoutgrains ever? The aromas are very spicy and herbal, with charcoal and tons of earth and minerals. The palate is tart, slightly metallic, but hugely juicy. Tastes like ham with cooked earthy mushrooms on top. The finish is rich, showing vibrant acid on the finish. Really nice, and there's much to like here. Good bits of chili spice at the end. Killer juice.

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• 2009 Jean-Marc Millot Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages

  Slightly spicy aromas, with soft, very rich fruit. The palate expresses earth and tart red fruit. Very soft and elegant without much complexity. Nice minerality and acidic backbone though. For me this is too tart and ripe on the finish and finishes nearly exactly like a young Oregon Pinot Noir. Nice acid throughout, though.

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• 2008 Scott Paul Cellars Pinot Noir La Paulée 91 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  Considering the notes here, this is much better than expected, and I'm glad I have some bottles packed away. The aromas are very large, rich, and spicy. Some tart red fruits, but tons of briar, rich, deep dark strawberries. I appreciate all of the aromas, but something about it does smell too new world to me. Luckily, I lose this descent on the palate and finish. I get this ham covered in strawberries on the palate which is absolutely delicious. Very soft texture while holding strong on the structural balance. Nice tart fruits throughout, and there's some minerality that's awesome and balances the richness and graceful opulence. Lots of spice and acid on the finish, which is tart and grippy. Very nice, deep, impressive flavors. Definitely one to watch for evolution.

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• 2009 Scott Paul Cellars Pinot Noir Dix Maresh Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills

  This is definitely not the 96 point killer that The Wine Enthusiast proclaims, but it's still delicious juice for today's consumption. The aromas are definitely large, rich, and up front. Plenty of fruit, spice, and it feels a little flabby already. Honestly, not much is appealing about the nose and it did set me up for disappointment... luckily, that didn't happen. The palate entrance is incredibly soft and precise. For sure there is some large juicy fruit present, but it shows nice balance. Rich and tasty, as this primarily tastes like ripe briar, minerals, and berry juice. The finish shows tons of meaty asparagus with intense spice and acid. This was unexpected considering the opulence on the nose and palate, though the finish too is juicy. It doesn't quite feel like it has the structure to evolve over the long term, but right now and over the next five years or so this should be drinking pretty deliciously.

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