Burgundy Dinner with Jeanne Marie de Champs

Sepia - Chicago IL
Tasted Friday, February 17, 2012 by Burgundy Al with 691 views

Introduction

Dinner with our great friend, Jeanne Marie de Champs, thanks to our other great friend, George Molitor of Fine Vines. We brought a few wonderful bottles from some producers Jean-Marie represents.

Flight 1 (6 Notes)

Flight 2 (4 Notes)

  • 2003 Domaine François Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 86 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Black fruit aromas and flavors, showing unusual character for Pinot Noir, even plum and black cassis. there is no question that the fruit is good and interesting. New oak spice is also a bit too pronounced, along with assertive acidity and slightly harsh tannins. Perhaps the Malconsorts terroir just requires far more time than this, according to Jeanne Marie de Champs tonight. I was less optimistic.

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  • 2003 Domaine François Lamarche La Grande Rue 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Grande Rue Grand Cru

    Really a sensational 2003, this balanced robust fruit with energy and acidity in a way few 2003s show today. Black cherry aromas and flavors with licorice, fresh thyme and espresso. Ripe fruit from start to finish but no sense of being overripe or flabby. Jean-Marie de Champs explained that Lamarche followed old, traditional practices that dated back to the prior century to maintain acidity when faced with the character of the 2003 vintage. In any case, it certainly worked for Grande Rue.

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  • 1998 Domaine François Lamarche La Grande Rue 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Grande Rue Grand Cru

    Mature black fruit aromas with an earthy character. Same black cherry and blackberry flavors, also slightly more mature than i recall from when last tasted last year. Still, this is a nicely balanced wine perfectly within its peak drinking window.

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  • 2003 Domaine François Lamarche Grands-Echezeaux 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

    Black and red cherry aromas, followed by more black cherry and black berry flavors. modest spice and intensity. Still very balanced for a 2003 with good acidity that will certainly help keep this fresh and interesting for at least another decade+.

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Flight 3 (4 Notes)

  • 2002 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Popped and poured. Sensational perfumed aromas to start, but muted fruit that became decreasingly interesting. Sigh. Corked.

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  • 2001 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Perfumed aromas to start, red and back cherry with a great floral component. i was surprised to hear no whole cluster was used on this wine, given its perfumed aromas. Plate shows same range of cherry flavors with some emerging earthy character and some truffle as well. These great flavors are accompanied by great acidity and minerality, which together provide intriguing textures and energy towards long finish. Still a baby, getting better.

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  • 2000 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Red cherry and raspberry aromas with some simple Aisian spice and oak elements. Same good red fruit flavors, slightly simple with modest spice.

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  • 1999 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Open approximately 2 hours before served, but not decanted. I'd seriously decant this next time. Started quite reserved, then aromas of black cherry and dark chocolate started emerging after 30+ minutes in glass. Palate also started as somewhat reticent and subdued, but became more spicy with powerful fruit after 30-45 minutes.

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 1988 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Big and robust aromas, but not particularly pristine. Earthy and black aromas with tannins that still stand out. Not perfectly in balance. I believe this was the first vintage that Henri Jayer didn't make and I think it showed.

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  • 1990 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Absolutely sensational in every way. Ripe black fruit aromas with anise, cloves, allspice, black pepper and bacon fat. If tasted blind, I would certainly have guessed this was Richebourg. Great black and red cherry flavors with similar great spice. powerful and perfectly textured. This might be in its peak drinking window but will certainly be exceptional for at least another decade...perhaps two. Thanks, Rob!

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