Shama's Burgundy Rising

An opportunity to try, blind, what a selection of us viewed as 'up and coming' producers — those making good wine but not yet achieving the recognition (or prices) that they may yet.

Nibbles of salt & vinegar crisps, smoked quali's eggs and some sort of gelatinous deep fried prawn cracker affair that seemed fishy but was apparently meant to be a pork scratching.

• 2010 Damien et Romain Bouchard Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Quite a floral style. A touch ripe and slightly tropical on the nose. Crisper and drier on the palate broke minerality. Something in reserve. ***1/2

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• 2010 Damien et Romain Bouchard Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Seem a bit riper and fuller on the nose. Similar style but this has a little more superficial depth and intensity. A bit softer though. ***. Migh be interesting in a year or two, but I suspect this will always lack verve. ***

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Scallops, carrot, buckthorn & sea urchin

• 2005 Arnaud Ente Meursault 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Lovely nose. A touch of cream and hazelnut. Mineral, quite broad but with good cut and length. Lovely. ****

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• 2008 Buisson-Charles Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Curious nose. Not quite poxed but a tad medicinal. Palate quite different though; more mineral, a slightly brooding intensity. Really quite mineral on the attacksnd mid-palate with a latent hazelnut element coming though on a really quite long finish. This is one to explore a bottle of over an evening. ****

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Veal tartare, dried vinegar, potato and dill

• 2008 Henri Jouan Chambolle-Musigny 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Strawberry, light, a sense of Beaujolais or PTG here - that slightly bubblegum red fruit crunchy and vibrant without any weight. A far lighter persona than the nose suggests. Lovely. Textbook Chambolle? Elegant and really lovely and very long. Filigree. ****

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• 2009 Domaine David Clark Côte de Nuits Villages

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages

  Initially slightly awkward. Opens up with air but remains quite dense and with a hint of reduction. Very tasty. As previous bottle, very serious for what it is and a longer term prospect. Just about ***(*)

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Ox cheek, vebena, artichoke & pear

followed by

Mutton loin and shank, golden beetroot and burnt onion

• 2002 Domaine Rossignol Trapet Beaune 1er Cru Teurons 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Quite sweet fruited. Brighter and more vibrant with a little more density than I light have expected. Good acidity on the finish but lacks a bit of complexity. Ripe vintage - 06? ***1/2

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• 2007 Domaine Dublère Beaune 1er Cru Les Blanches Fleurs 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Quite a spicy nose. Red fruited, quite light, fragrant and elegant. Sweet fruited, good acidity. Very attractive indeed. ****

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• 2007 Domaine des Croix Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Hmm, a bit dank. Corked? Seems to lift a bit though but there's still something in the background here. Quite light, bright and red fruited. (***1/2+)

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Birch parfait, pine & malt

• 2009 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé 89 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Passito di Pantelleria

  Deep bronzy amber. Sweet nose, quite lifted, very peachy. Quite full and slightly medicinal. Intense and quite fulsome upfront but lacks intensity and length on the finish. Quite fun though and showing decent acidity. ***

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