WineStreets / Acqua 2009 Red Burgundies (and a few nice Whites)

I was fortunate enough to be invited to this event by my friend Matt. As per usual, Brad from WineStreets put together a terrific grouping of wines. Also to be expected, the food at Acqua was superlative. And a big "thank you" to Kevin for organizing the whole affair. Well done.

The only unfortunate aspect of this evening was that I so enjoyed the company, that my notes suffered....a lot. What follows is a very cursory assessment of some very fine wines. While I'm somewhat disappointed in not having more detailed scribblings to draw from, I guess sometimes that's what wine is all about....great people, great conversation with wine and food providing the assist.

My first acquisitions of White Burgundy were '04s. I've always liked the vintage, and now with a few years of age on them they are starting to come into their own. I enjoyed trying the Darviot-Perrin. The first I've had from this producer, and I was favorably impressed.

• 2004 Domaine Darviot-Perrin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  I liked this more than most at the table. Noticeable oak that translated to a tar impression, which reminded me a bit of '96 Coche Dury Meursault I had awhile back, if not quite as complicated or youthful. A nice wine, and if I had this in my cellar, I'd probably hold onto it for awhile, with the hopes that additional time would mellow the tar note. My first experience with this producer, and I came away impressed. A tossup between this and the Girardin for the #2 spot in this flight. Within the flight, this one is at the bold/big end of the spectrum.

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• 2004 Domaine Darviot-Perrin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Blanchots Dessus 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  My favorite of this flight. A bit more balanced and elegant as compared to the '04 Darviot-Perrin Meursault Les Perriees, and for my palate, more body than the Girardin in this flight. Really a beautiful wine, and one that was a "center of the plate pitch" for my palate. Elegant but not shy. I would buy this wine, and think it outperforms its price point. A superb pairing with the mussel course.

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• 2005 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  This one morphed several times over the 20 minutes or so it was in the glass. Seemingly a bit tight and ungiving at first, it opened up into something quite alluring. By the end of the flight, this had shut down a bit for me, and was the most "shy" of the 3 wines in the flight. While most folks at my end of the table rated this #1 or #2 in the flight, it's probably my #3. Fans of delicate and subtle will appreciate this. This one was also well paired against the mussels.

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Each flight was a learning experience for me. The lesson from this flight - "not all young Henri Gouges is as hard as nails when young". The entry below was remarkably approachable.

• 2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  More approachable than others I've had from this producer. Remarkable actually, given that it's so young. Earth and a spicy perfume on a nicely balanced palate. I agree with Robert's point re: QPR WOTN. I would (and likely will) seek this one out. I'm very curious to see how it would evolve over the next 5-10 years. My favorite of the flight.

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• 2009 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  My notes start to fall down here. A bit of gaminess, but not as much as the Thibault Liger-Belair in this flight. A more delicate expression, this one made a run at WOTF for me.

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• 2009 Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  This one was meaty and earthy, which in the spirit of full disclosure, is not my style preference for Pinot / Red Burgundy. Obviously well crafted, and a favorite at the table for those gravitating toward that style. It's hard for me to score this one, knowing that my style bias gets in the way. While I'm in the distinct minority, this would probably be my #3 of the flight.

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I'm disappointed by my lack of focus during this flight. Between the great conversation, and my being totally enamored with the Girardin, I lost track of the other two wines in this flight.

• 2009 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Charmes-Chambertin 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  My WOTN, this one had it all for me. A perfumed nose that seemed to be hand-picked to match up with the truffle gnocchi dish, it just blew me away. Relatively full-bodied and complex on the palate. Like most of the '09s served tonight, very approachable. If I could pick one wine of the evening to "go long" on, this would be it. I would have liked to follow this bottle through the entire evening.

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• 2009 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  No detailed notes on either of the La Pousse entries in this flight. Both seemed tighter and more tart than many of the '09s served. I was so focused on the Girardin in this flight that these were perhaps a bit overshadowed.

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• 2009 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  No detailed notes on either of the La Pousse entries in this flight. Both seemed tighter and more tart, and more in need of time than many of the '09s served. I was so focused on the Girardin in this flight that these were perhaps a bit overshadowed.

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The lesson for me in this flight - when well done, "sauvage" appeals to me. The Thibault Liger-Belair was the standout in this group for me.

• 2009 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Bressandes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Both the Girardins in this flight showed a rustic character, while of the two, this was the more approachable. Slightly sauvage with a distinct licorice note. "Rounded edges" as compared to the Corton Renardes. Very appealing for the style. I'd serve this one with game.

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• 2009 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Renardes 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Like the other Girardin in this flight, this one came across as rustic, but with some sharper edges. This might be one of the few of the evening that needs more time to really shine (and soften). 89-90 points for now, with good potential for upside improvement.

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• 2009 Thibault Liger-Belair Clos Vougeot 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  WOTF for me, and at this point in the evening, this style (game/rustic/masculine) was starting to grow on me. I found this to be less overt in those characteristics than the Les Georges, but it could have simply been a function of placement in the lineup. Rightly or wrongly, this struck me as more complex and nuanced. One of my top wines of the evening.

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Generously provided by Brad, these were an interesting departure from the '09s. A shame about the Armelle et Bernard Rion. Seemed to have some good underlying fruit, but there was something decidedly off about that bottle. On any given night, I'd be happy to drink anything from this flight. That these were an "oh by the way, how about we try these" speaks to the quality of the event.

• 1999 Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion Clos Vougeot Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  This bottle was off. Corked or cooked, I'm not sure. And I see I've got a couple bottles of this in my cellar. Might have to dig one out and take a peek.

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• 2000 Domaine René Leclerc Griotte-Chambertin 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Like everything I've had from this producer (limited sample set), the operative word is "rustic". Good QPR, and would be a good pairing with savory country French cuisine.

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• 2006 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

  Different than many of the '09's, this one more clearly needs additional age. Relatively delicate and refined, but pretty tight at this stage in the game. Another decent QPR for those with space in the cellar to sit on it for a few years.

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I'm a relative neophyte with respect to Burgundies, so I valued this event as an opportunity to learn more. Throw in some great company, and great food, and it was truly an evening to remember. Thanks to all who had a hand in making it happen!