Riesling Tribute: the wines of Fritz Haag @ my place

Casual tasting focussing on the wines of Weingut Fritz Haag, with Peter Z., Thijs, Willem and Paul Br.
Since I was organizing, I was not blinded for the tasting.

• 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 91 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  What a delightful wine! Although I found it quite intense and sweet for a Kabinett, this was remarkable for its drinking pleasure and joie de vivre. Pretty unctuous and oily, baked apples, soft citrus candy, ladies' soap, stony minerality, sappy and juicy. Lively acidity kicks in just in time to keep this from toppling. Finish is marked by beautiful dusty bitterness. Leaves a wonderful sense of powdered sugar on the lips. Excellent to drink now, might be better in 2 years. Lipsmackingly good Kabinett. 17.5-18/20 (AP # 03-08)

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• 2004 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese trocken 88 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Found this wine a little 'difficult', with its stony, mineral bouquet of wet pebbles, whiff of petrol (not too much), smoke and asphalt. Also on the palate this is enormously mineral and acidic, maybe somewhat aggressive. Lime juice, flint, grapefruit. An ambivalent wine, refreshing, yet serious and moody. Hence the slightly indiscriminate score: 16.5/20 (AP #08-05)

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• 2008 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Großes Gewächs 89 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Opens a tad boisterous with notes of glue, smoke and volatile acidity coming out of the glass. The first sip is hard work too; vegetal and acidic (which I incidently like). Extensive aeration mellows the wine, it get softer and more friendly. The vegetal aromas get more distinct, hinting at fennel and fresh green herbs. But there are also nuances of chamomille, bacon, salmiak, peach yoghurt and candied citrusfruit. Needs at least 2 more years in the dungeon. 17/20 (AP #08-09)

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• 1997 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 89 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Wonderful degree of ripeness, excellent balance. Clear notes of aging Riesling (Firne?), but they play a supportive role. Nothing overbearing. The sweetness has mellowed in time and gives way to substantial acidity and bitterness in the back. Orange zest, seaweed, crustaceans, green tea and jasmine. Seems to decline in the glass over time, so drink up if you have any. 17/20 (AP # 07-98)

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• 2006 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Wow, this is a bruiser... Fabulously rich and intense. Is this spätlese? Yeah, right... But it's so damn juicy and enchanting. Thick gobs of peach yoghurt, clean and pure botrytis jumps out of the glass, absolutely no signs of aging nor petrol. Lots of baby fat, way to young. Reminded me of a Sauternes from an elegant year (say 1999 or 2002), but this is even better digestible thanks to its ABV of 7.5%. Maybe not very 'Fritz Haag', but shamelessly tasty. 18/20 (AP #07-07)

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• 2003 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 89 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  In contrast to what I was expecting this was the freshest, brightest, most graceful wine of this flight, which is an amazing effort in this vintage. Very clean and elegant bouquet and palate. Green apples, green kitchen herbs, menthol, yeasty dough and pastry. Very subtle in style and texture, not very expressive at the moment. 17/20. (AP #07-04)

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• 1997 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #10 89 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Cork came out in a hundred pieces. Reticent, shy nose, faint soapy nuances, pinch of petrol, some yellow fruit too. And also some sweaty action. Peaches, flint, diesel, orange juice. Very racy, interesting sweet-n-sour interplay. Nice and tasty, highly digestible, yet not overly complex. 17/20 (AP #10-98)

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• 2004 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #6 88 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Petillant. Candy-shop, grassy, cooked vegetables, mango. Thijs claims 'Campari-like bitters' and that is spot on. No petrol yet. Good balance in sugar and acidity, but alas aromatically slightly uneasy, even one-dimensional or simple. 16.5/20 (AP #06-05)

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• 1985 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 90 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Opens slightly stale (rainwater, mossy rocks), but after a while nuances of damp earth, smoked salmon, shot game, Poire Williams and baked bananas. Very fine and filigreed, good poise and freshness. Seemed to decline in the glass, but was still lively and well defined when I had another glass a few hours later. 17.5/20 (AP #15-86)

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• 1998 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel #9 94 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  This is my 1000th TN on CT and I dedicate it to the winner of our tasting of today.
  Ginger, lemongrass, exotic flowers and spices. Extremely bright, clean and focussed, zippy acidity, subtle minerality. Very complex wine, yet no overbearing concentration. Seemless wine. An artisanal masterpiece. Drink now. 18.5/20. (AP #09-99)

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• 2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel #9 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Funky bouquet. Petrol and notes of indigenous yeast fermentation (?). Still way too young, slightly petillant, weightless mid palate. Very refined and elegant. Mineral, fruity and floral, but the aromatics are clenched like a fist, and it's not giving way. At the moment, it is light-footed, well balanced and carressing. But I'll let mine sleep for at least 2 years. Very promising future. 18/20 (AP #09-02)

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• 2003 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel #9 90 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Pale colour, hints of grey and green. Hard candy, salmiak, powdered sugar, mint, eucalypt, jasmine and green tea. Strikingly bright, clean and graceful (when considering the vintage). Not ready yet. 17.5/20. (AP #09-04)

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• 2000 Château Malartic-Lagravière 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Cool nose, cassis, ink, blueberry pancake, molasses, cream, raspberry yoghurt. Very fruity on the palate, also some tea leaves, and still quite tannic. Medium-plus body. Lots of sap, hint of alcoholic heat. A clear exponent of modern wine making. Very nice. 17.5/20

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• 2001 Château Clos St. Martin 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  Wonderfully dusty and classic bouquet of earth, black cherries, lots of new oak, undergrowth, licquorice, flintstone. Masculine and muscular wine. Did not recognize this as a Right bank wine. Guessed Pessac. Great stuff and ready to go. 18+/20

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• 2010 Weingut Jakob Schneider Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese JUNIOR 90 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Clearly a descendant of this unparalleled vintage. Opulent and intense sweetness, but especially in the back and in the aftertaste there is very prominent, ripe, citrusy, sharp mouthfeel. I really liked the wine, but I do not have a clue where this is heading to...
  Candied limes, orange oil, zippy acidity. At this moment bright and thirst-quenching but also serious and enduring because of its enormous concentration and fierce acidity. 17.5/20. (AP #27-11).

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Personal WOTN: 1998 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Goldkapsel Auslese #9
Other wines to look out for: 2007 Kabinett, 2006 Spätlese, Jakob Schneider's Hermannshöhle Auslese 2010.