Fourrier dinner with Jean-Marie

A 60 person dinner organised by Sebastian Thomas of Howard Ripley Wines. Jean-Marie gave a brief introduction to the flights, though said little on this occasion about the characteristics of the individual climats. A few general points: of the 2007s, the Combe/Goulots/Cherbaudes were on this occasion much less expressive and impressive than the villages wines, although the CSJ and the Griottes were super. The 06s are a bit awkward, the 05s superb with a bit of air, the 02s simply overshadowed by the younger wines. In all four vintages shown, the Griottes is smoother, more voluptuous, more luxurious than the CSJ, but I find the CSJ more complex and interesting. The 2010s are amazing.

• 2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut

  France, Champagne

  Powerful, steely, very deep and grand - my first experience of this and it is rather wonderful

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• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Not giving much on the nose, and although one can sense red fruits and earth on the palate, it's nowhere near as expressive as the Fourrier villages 07s which I've had so often. Hard to get a take on this.

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• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  This has more definition than the Combe, nicely berried on the palate, but still not as expressive as I"d expected

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• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Reticent nose, a really sweet core of fruit on the palate, but like all this trio not very expressive and I found it hard to distinguish these three

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• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  A huge advance on the preceding flight, bright fruit, deep, multi-layered, gorgeous, gorgeous wine

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• 2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  A bit sweaty and reduced, more compact and lacking the exuberance and charm of the 07

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• 2005 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  This was tight to begin with, and by Fourrier standards a bit heavy; and the fruit is further along the black end of the flavour spectrum. But this grew much better in the glass, ending up fine and grand

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• 2002 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Hard to taste after the more powerful youngsters - softer, less dimension; attractive, but overshadowed

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• 2007 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Like the CSJ, but a touch more voluptuous, smoother, but like the CSJ showing layer and layer of gorgeous deep red fruit

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• 2006 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

  More compact that the 07, but smooth, fine and beautiful

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• 2005 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Similar to the CSJ 05, but smoother and more luxurious and, I feel, less distinctive.

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• 2002 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

  As in the previous flight, this got lost after the more vigorous younger wines.

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• 2010 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  The nose started a bit soapy, but on the palate, what explosive freshness! Super

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• 2010 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  A bit reduced, but gorgeously fresh, black fruited, sharply delineated, lots of bite, this is exhilarating

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• 2010 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Very pure, liqueur cherries, rose petals, amazing freshness, this explodes in the mouth. Thrilling

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• 2005 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Beerenauslese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Penetrating, mouthwatering, pure and powerful sweet riesling, a great finale to the evening

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