Burgundy Monday--20 juin 2011

with Nicolas Potel and his mom's fabulous Gougeres (I use her recette)

• 2009 Domaine de Bellene Bourgogne Clos Bardot Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  from vines planted in 1928. Very closed nose. Some dark fruit on the palate. Nice balance with easy tannins. Pretty deep for Bourg. Rouge.

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• 2009 Domaine de Bellene Côte de Nuits Villages Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages

  Much more depth here. Cinnamon, clove and an exotic perfume that I would call village level Vosne if I tasted blind. Nice balance of red and black fruit. Really dark cassis and Creomulsion cough medicine again.

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• 2009 Domaine de Bellene Beaune 1er Cru Pertuisots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Vines planted in 1963. Almost a really cool climate Sonoma on the nose. Some of the dark cherry and toast I get on Copain. Very rich mouthfeel and nice texture without going too far.

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• 2009 Domaine de Bellene Côte de Nuits Villages Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages

  Really cool Nuits funk on the nose. Mostly dark fruit and rich tannic concentration. Would be a crowd-pleaser but I prefer the Beaune.

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• 2009 Maison Roche de Bellene Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Hello! Incredible complexity on the nose. Lots of flowery perfume and explosive fruit. Really strong tart black plum rather than just sweet black fruits. I get the Chambolle perfume but this is still masculine in style.

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• 2009 Maison Roche de Bellene Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Much more feminine in style than the Charmes. All flowery perfume and bright fruits. Very sexy. This is probably the longest finish yet but the tannic balance is great.

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• 2009 Maison Roche de Bellene Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St. Jacques

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Amazing roundness of red fruits. Very powerful. Has been open 24 hours and yet gas built up so we had a big cork “pop” on opening. Lots of rich spice which integrates with the fruit. This is very good Gevrey which should be affordable.

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• 2009 Maison Roche de Bellene Chambertin

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

  BANG! Extreme power on the nose, but not in an over extracted way. The terroir shines through. Sweet blackberry and tart cassis with some briarberry green tannin. Has lovely acidity. Very long finish. Lots of classic spices but are well-integrated and hard to differentiate. Will seek.

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• 2009 Domaine de Bellene Bourgogne Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  Recently bottled from 600 liter barrique. Fresh and lovely. Lots of limestone. Round but not oaky (thank you 600 l.) Light soft lemon and guava and almost wet slate.

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• 2009 Domaine de Bellene Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune

  Very steep vineyard which must be worked by horse. Also from 600 l. barrique. Richer fruit and a sense of oak, maybe because of the extraction. Some sweet grapefruit with a creamy lemon mouthfeel. Some light (acacia?) honey also. Worth seeking—could be a bargain.

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• 2009 Domaine de Bellene Santenay Charmes Dessus Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay

  A little more oak on this one. Longer finish even though the texture is leaner with more acid. Great tropical white fruits.

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• 2009 Domaine de Bellene Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges

  Much richer and creamier with more oak again. Typical Chardonnay markers but not typical Nuits. Would be fun in a blind tasting.

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• 2009 Maison Roche de Bellene Meursault Collection Bellenum

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Aha! This is the Meursault I was seeking for last night’s dinner. Very rich but also very elegant. I get the hazelnut, but subtly with integrated oak and classic tropical fruits. Dried pineapple, guava, lemon and papaya. I would guess from the north side of the village or at least center but not near Puligny.

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• 2009 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Bourgogne Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  Very creamy mouthfeel (not overdone) with soft acidity and easy white and green fruits. Simple but pleasant.

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• 2009 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Meursault

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Very light tropical fruit. Also light-handed on the oak. This aims for elegance and is close. I’m not sure the acidity is sufficient but I’m not sure the fruit is sufficient either. With age it may even turn flabby.

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• 2009 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Bourgogne

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Immediate dark cassis on the nose. Moderate dry tannins but still very Chambolle terroir-driven. Nice acidity and red perfumed fruits on the palate. Worth seeking.

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• 2009 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Rose, lilac, tart cherry fruit on nose. On the palate some forest mushroom and-floral scented talcum powder from grandma’s house.

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• 2009 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Plantes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Very dense on the nose, not stewed but obviously very ripe. Pretty big tannins but nice acid balance. To keep and explore when more earth and spice emerge.

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• 2009 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Much more floral and bigger fruit than Les Plantes with even bigger tannins. Shows some tight seed/stem-type tannins. We bought this and drank it over an entire evening at dinner. It really improved a lot with air but I still find this lacking the grace of great Chambolle. Charmes is usually big but this may be too much for me.

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• 2009 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Derrière La Grange

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Lots of sweetness up front. Much more approachable now than the Charmes. Almost cherry-Icee flavors with a bit of the blue raspberry. Acidity is good. Tannins are softer but still evident.

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• 2009 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  All powder, flowers and sweet fruit. The biggest so far but also the best balanced. The sour/bitter cassis plays well with the natural sweet ripeness of cherry and raspberry. Tannins/acidity are balanced. Elegant. My only problem with these wines is that they, while very tasty and sexy, are not complex. There is very little of the exotic spice I expect from great terroir.

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