Chateau Margaux vertical dinner with great whites and 2007 Rayas

Seven of us got together to drink seven vintages of Chateau Margaux. Due to the unexpected cancelation, the 90 was missing from the line-up. We were fortunate as all the wines showed well and there was no corked wine. It was fascinating as all except the 03 Margaux displayed the signature Margaux floral note and all clearly showed the vintage characters. There was a strong consensus for the top three wines; 1982, 1996 and 2000 followed by 2003. I thought the others were exceptional but some tasters didn’t like them much. The 2007 Rayas was an amazing wine.

• 2005 Etienne Sauzet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  I have had high rate of premox with Sauzet wines. This fortunately is a great bottle of wine, if anything too tight. I typically find noticeable sesame/toasted oak as well as very mineral expression in Sauzet and this is no exception. Honey followed by a hint of sesame, flint and lemon. Very powerful mineral driven wine with bright acidity. It is still very tight and perhaps five more years of cellaring will help.

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• 2002 Henri Boillot Montrachet 97 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  This is a big scale oily montrachet that is drinking perfectly at the moment. The nose is quite complex and seamless, lemon oil, peach, allspice and a hint of ginger. The palate is dense and chewy yet quite fresh and airy as the wine has great balance. It is a classic unctuous and hedonistic style of Montrachet.

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• 2002 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Nice contrast to the GC Montrachets and a great example of perfectly drinking Raveneau. Very floral start followed by precise mineral expression. Fresh lemon, pear, lemon zest, beeswax, limestone and wild flowers. Very precise and airy palate while having very intense nose, not unlike a nicely matured CSH. Very youthful wine and will last but drinking perfectly.

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• 2007 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  A hint of light caramel, flint, papaya and mango but not too tropical. Big scale wine with excellent concentration and acidity. Very fresh and enjoyable.

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• 1982 Château Margaux 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Intense and expressive nose displaying cassis, floral, cedar, extremely sweet fruits, roasted chestnut and earth. The palate is clean and precise. With time a hint of ash and a bit more noticeable earth element. This seems fully matured compare to the others served. This is an excellent example of the 82 Margaux.

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• 1983 Château Margaux 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Another classic floral cab based Margaux nose but significantly more youthful than the 82. Fresh blueberries and blackberries, cassis, blue fruits and a hint of green which for me gives the wine lift and complexity. Some mentioned initial band-aid note but mine was fine, must blew off. Intense yet seamless palate. Lovely showing but had better bottles in the past.

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• 1986 Château Margaux 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  The most youthful and powerful of the flight. Intense ripe blue and black fruits, lead pencil, fruit cakes and iron. Just like the 86 Mouton and Lafite, slowly evolving and still need time. Still noticeable tannins but quite enjoyable.

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• 1995 Château Margaux 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  This tasting is interesting in that the wines clearly demonstrate the vintage characters. Primary and tight, cassis, lead pencil, earth and a hint of flower. The palate is primary and tight with still noticeable tannins. A bit angular and noticeable structure.

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• 1996 Château Margaux 99 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  This has been one of my favorite Chateau Margauxs along with the 00. Very cool fruit expression, fresh blackberries, cassis, lead pencil, mushroom and anise. The palate is incredibly silky and suave, almost weightless. Tom mentioned the stylistic change from the 96 to the 00 and the 03 which seem more fruit forward. This is incredible youthful but drinking beautifully in primary way. This is truly a classic claret with the perfect balance and extremely long finish.

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I rated the 90 Margaux 100 points in March. IMO, it is very similar to the 00 in concentration and ripe black fruit expression.

• 2000 Château Margaux 99 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  This is a massive wine. Intense sweet dark fruits, cassis, licorice, ink and lavender. Incredibly unctuous palate showing absolutely stunning concentration. Not unlike the 00 CB drank about a month ago. This has gained significant fruit weight compare to a few years back. Some may find this too young but what a wine!

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• 2003 Château Margaux 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  A great example of the top 03s, very ripe opulent dark fruits, crème de cassis, espresso, black pepper, anise and a hint of green that keeps the wine fresh. Chewy palate with noticeable tannins. This will require additional five to ten years to be ready.

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• 2007 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 98 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Incredibly expressive nose of wild flowers and herbs, oolong tea, smoked meat, wild game anise, strawberry and raspberry. Extremely sweet red fruit palates, a hint of fizz with noticeable gaminess. The wine shows the perfectly matured fruits and not overdone, very classic youthful CDP. Just incredible showing even after all the Margauxs.

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• 1990 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux 95 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Initially the dark color is worrisome to all of us. Dry figs, apricot, licorice, dark caramel and perfectly ripe yellow peach. Beautiful chewy yet airy palate reminds me Dal Forno nettare. Kelly thinks a mature D’Yquem and I can’t disagree. Very complex thick palate with bright acidity. Lovely and impressive showing.

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• 1994 Château Tirecul La Gravière Monbazillac Cuvée Madame 96 Points

  France, Southwest France, Dordogne, Monbazillac

  This is so darn tasty. Light banana flambé, a hint of light caramel. Beautiful airy yet intense palate. This is one of those wines that is so hard to resist.

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• 1997 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Sélection de Grains Nobles 95 Points

  France, Alsace

  Ginger, smoke, perfectly ripe yellow peach, mango and crème brulee. Still fresh with unctuous palate. Perhaps decanting will help as it seems a bit tight. I seem to prefer my icewine and SGN relatively young with fresh pear and white peach fruits.

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• 2006 Celler de Xavier Clua Terra Alta Millennium Dolç 89 Points

  Spain, Catalunya, Tarragona, Terra Alta

  Blue berry and strawberry. Very grapy wine with a hint of curry.

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The dinner lasted almost six hours! Great friends and great wines!