9th Annual Blind Challenge

The Square, Mayfair, London
Tasted Friday, June 15, 2012 by Rupert with 786 views

Introduction

Keith Prothero's annual dinner for charity where a dozen of us try to identify a series of grand wines served blind, one by one, and revealed after we've all had a go at guessing. A super line-up this year. As ever, Musar holds its own in some very grand company. Simon Grant won the trophy with a series of relentlessly accurate analyses, culminating as often as not in a successful identification of the producer.

Flight 1 - with canapés (1 Note)

Flight 2 - with terrine of dover sole, smoked eel, oysters and pickled cucumber (3 Notes)

Flight 3 - with ravioli of girolles, sweetcorn and roasting juices (4 Notes)

  • 1985 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia 92 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    Weedy, but bright stony red fruit, high acid. I'm expecting a Lopez de Heredia tonight and this is surely it. Lord knows whether it's Tondonia or Bosconia. Not sure either whether it's reserva or gran reserva. As for vintage I guess 81. If you can cope with the acidity (and I can), this is brilliant.

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  • 2007 Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder "B" 88 Points

    Germany, Pfalz

    Sweet bright pinot, a touch metallic and confected with its sweet strawberries, but very nice. New Zealand? Once we know it's old world, it's surely not Burgundy. Indeed not. Very attractive pinot, but I wouldn't pay more than £15 for it, let alone £40.

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  • 2000 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    A substitute for the corked Beaucastel. Slightly earthy pinot nose, smooth, silky. It crosses my mind that Keith might slip in the Cathiard Malconsorts 2000, but this doesn't seem voluptuous enough. But definitely Burgundy. And lovely it is too.

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  • 1997 Warwick Estate Trilogy 89 Points

    South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch

    Dusty, dark, very fresh, lots of pencil lead, a bit stalky. Tastes like good petit chateau bordeaux, but Keith wouldn't bring such a thing, would he?

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Flight 4 - with roast saddle of lamb, creamed potatoes, peas and mint (4 Notes)

  • 1993 Chateau Musar 93 Points

    Lebanon, Bekaa Valley

    Volatile, broad, red fruited. Surely this is Musar? Might even be the 91. Utterly gorgeous.

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  • 1992 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 86 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Stalky, very fresh, silky, no sign of oak. Am fairly confident this is cab franc, something like Saumur Champigny. I can't believe Mark Haisma thinks this could be pinot. When we're told it's burgundy, 2004 seems the most likely explanation of the greenness, although it does seem older. At all events, this is mean and charmless, and all the more disappointing when we find out that this is the most expensive bottle in the tasting.

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  • 1988 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace 91 Points

    Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley

    Minty, eucalyptus, volatile, rich fruit. I like this a lot. A non-Penfolds Aussie Shiraz? Simon says Henschke and once again is correct.

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  • 1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Medicinal, thick, not wholly clean and brutally tannic. Seems to be left bank claret, but not of the quality that Keith would bring. Can't believe it's Pichon Baron 89 - nothing like how I remember it.

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Flight 5 - with cheeses (5 Notes)

  • 1996 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 85 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Tight, grippy, ferocious tannins. Zero charm, zero fun. Must be Barolo.

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  • 1975 Château Haut-Brion 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Yet another one that's tight, dusty and metallic, but much more engaging than the Monprivato. Has the hallmarks of an 86 claret. Doesn't seem quite good enough to be Las Cases 86, but that's all I can think of. Gets better when I know what it is; I'm sure this will be great in fifty years time.

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  • 1985 Château Haut-Brion 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Another young claret, but riper and bigger than the previous one. This is super - dense and grippy, but excitingly so. Lynch Bages 89?

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  • 1989 Château Montrose 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Cool, light, very fresh, tannic. It tastes like another fine youthful claret, but we've had three of those already. Surprised to find it was Montrose 89, which I've found markedly funky in the past, whereas this was quite clean. In any event, a fine wine, which is too young right now.

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  • 2002 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

    Having overhead Nigel say "Giacosa" to the sommelier, we were expecting this bonus bottle to be a barbaresco, but it was immediately clear we were back in grand cru burgundy land. I guessed a Gevrey. Surprised to find it was an 02 and this was dark and grippy. Fine.

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Flight 6 - with crème caramel and candied fruits (1 Note)

Flight 7 - Corked wines not served (3 Notes)

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