Summer Whites and Roses - France and Austria

Another summer weekend, another group of solid whites and roses.

• 2001 Domaine du Haut Bourg Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu 85 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu

  (6/15/2012)

  I'm glad I opened my last bottle of this when I did, because this bottle was slightly oxidized. Aromas of Shows melon and nuts on the nose. Lovely guava and hints of peanut shell. Underneath it all is some lemon-lime. A little sherry note on the palate, but not too much. Crisp, but full at the same time. Chalky almost on the palate, with lots of oyster brine. This one shows a bit more oxidized notes than the last bottle I had, even though they both came from identical storage conditions. One of the many mysteries of wine. A bit of a strange taste on the finish, like nougat and dried honey, mixed with some dry sherry.

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• 2009 Tement Sauvignon Blanc Steirische Klassik 90 Points

  Austria, Styria

  (6/16/2012)

  This sauvignon blanc is unique and borders on the extreme. Lovely lemon-green color in the glass. The aromas are really wild: a burst of onion grass right off the bat, then some white flowers, followed up by crushed rocks and gooseberry. My first thought: "It smells Austrian." The palate shows great cut, medium body and a lot of mineral flavors. The dominant fruit flavor is green apple, followed up by limes, and then there's this leek and onion flavor that is pungent. I happen to like these flavors, but this wine might not be for everyone. A great example of what Austrian sauvignon blanc can do. This is one of those SBs that would benefit from three-to-five years. I tasted two bottles, one had been opened for 24 hours, and the other had just been opened. The difference was remarkable.

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• 2011 Domaine les Grands Bois Viognier Côtes du Rhône Blanc 87 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

  (6/16/2012)

  For $15, this is a great summer party wine. Aromatically, this wine has a lot going on for it: soap, lavender, melon, orange blossom. It smells like some sort of organic hippie soap store. The palate shows a lot of ripe melon fruit, thick with a honey, but there's enough acid for balance. Lovely stuff that would please a lot of different palates. Great chardonnay substitute, and it's a lot more aromatic than its $15 price point. 100% viognier

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• 2010 Domaine de la Grande Chaume (Romain Bouchard) Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  (6/16/2012)

  This Chablis falls on the more modern end of the spectrum. It's not searing or steely, but neither is it flabby or too fruity. For me, it's got the perfect combination of sunshine and limestone. Aromatically, it's got a rich melon thing going on, as well as some peanut shell. Creamy on the palate with lots of pineapple, green apple, minerals and slate. Rich, but balanced and elegant. I really liked this Chablis, and I'd love to revisit it in five years.

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• 2010 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 'M' 94 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  (6/16/2012)

  Oh, FX Pichler's "M"... is it the best gruner veltliner in the world? I don't feel fully qualified to make that claim, but this wine is, year-in, year-out, the best gruner veltliner I ever lay my palate upon.The aromas are so seductive and intense: kiwi and melon fruit mix with white pepper, tobacco and pickling spices. Over time it evolved and started to smell like all sorts of incense. This wine is an aromatic freak of nature, and I love it. The palate shows gorgeous melon rind flavors, lots of minerals, and mout-puckering acid. Lovely hints of sweet herbs and white pepper, along with ripe kiwi fruit. This wine is so complex and powerful that it will take a decade to unravel. However, tasting it young is truly a remarkable experience. Worth the $80 price point, without a doubt.

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• 2010 Yannick Amirault Bourgueil Rosé d'Equinoxe 88 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil

  (6/16/2012)

  This rose really surprised me, although maybe it shouldn't have, because Yannick Amirault made it. Lovely copper strawberry color in the glass. Aromas: sweet watermlon, strawnerry. On the palate this shows medium+ acid, lots of creaminess. Flavors of honeydew melon, strawberry and mineral water. Lemon lingers on the finish. A very ripe rose, but a very nice one nonetheless.

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• 2011 Château Mourgues du Gres Costières-de-Nîmes Galets Rosés 86 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes

  (6/16/2012)

  I popped this rose with my buddy Geoff on the back patio on a warm summer afternoon. Perfect wine for the occassion. Lovely watermelon color. Lots of ripe melon and strawberry fruit on the nose and palate. This wine is mostly focuse on fruit, with a bit of spice, but not much. I like the creamy mouthfeel. Crowd-pleasing stuff, great for the price.

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• 2007 François Chidaine Vouvray Le Bouchet 92 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  (6/16/2012)

  Quintessential chenin blanc aroms of wax, honey, white flowers, chamomile. Over time some ruby red grapefruit and sugar cane came out. On the palate, this wine is bold and full of chunky fruit. There’s a gorgeous creaminess to this wine the whole way through, and a bit of sweetness, but the high acid balances is out. Stark minerality carries through, lots of limestone. Apricot, nectarine fruit lead the way to a spritz of lemon that carries the finish. Just a hint of sweetness, like a dollop of honey on top of the rest of the wine. This really is an incredible chenin blanc. Chidaine is simply an artist with the chenin blanc grape. So balanced, so pure.

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