Summer Grilling with a wide assortment of wines

Had a few friends come over with a grab-bag assortment of different wines to drink with burgers and sausage on the grill. The cork gods were much kinder this time... the last few times this group has gotten together, practically every other bottle opened has been corked. This time, there was a very solid showing, including a jaw droppingly good bottle of Allemand Chaillot.

• 2011 Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina Rubentis

  Spain, País Vasco, Getariako Txakolina

  Frizzante and brightly hued salmon color. Nose is fun with candied strawberry and floral notes. The palate is zippy and refreshing with lively acidity. One of the most "fun" wines you'll ever drink and a good way to start the night.

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• 2006 Vouette et Sorbée Champagne Fidèle

  France, Champagne

  A developed nose with a touch of oxidation. Very "Pinot" in its approach, with a honeyed, bruised apple and cherry notes. The palate is quite rich and full up front, with the acid really popping on the finish, giving it an austere edge. A champagne that begs for food.

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• 2009 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie

  This wine is in a really tough place... lacking the fruit that made it hard to resist in its infancy, but not mature enough to shed some of the intense structure. With an hour+ decant, some of the floral and mineral notes on the nose begin to crawl out. On the palate though, this is pretty hard and angular, with some harsh acidity. Unyielding any of the black fruit that lies underneath all the structure. I'll hold my last bottle a couple years.

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• 2005 Marcel Lapierre Morgon

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

  What a treat! Light bricking and very savory on the nose, with a touch of black fruit underlying pleasant herbal notes. Medium weight with good acidity. I think this wine is in a perfect place right now with a good balance of fruit and secondary notes.

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• 2006 Azienda Agricola San Giuseppe Brunello di Montalcino Stella di Campalto

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Popped and poured a taste, which showed an intense earthy, rustic approach with just a small touch of brett. Threw in the decanter and this blew off, as the fruit emerged to take center stage. On the palate, sour cherry, plum and coffee flavors are rich and well delineated, with a cool herbal quality on the finish. Intense but not weighty. Clearly very good raw materials but I think this wine probably needs a couple years to really strut its stuff.

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• 2007 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  I was leery of opening this for fear that it would be shut down, but boy was I wrong! Popped and poured, giving slow oxidation and drank over the course of a few hours. What a stunner! One of the most savory noses you'll find in any wine, with cracked black pepper, meat and fennel jumping out of the glass. Black fruits, meat, and iron flavors that make you feel as though you're eating this wine, instead of drinking it, with a streak of acidity throughout that gives it impeccable freshness and balance. Long! This bottle made it clear why Allemand has become the benchmark for Cornas.

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