Old Beaunes

Alex Jagger invited eight of us to bring a pre-91 Beaune or two. And they showed brilliantly. The Drouhin Mouches is markedly glossier than the others and the 85 and 90 were the stars here, but all were delightful in their own way.

• 2004 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  Very pink, very pinot, very rich. A real wine, with bubbles just a bonus. Super

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• 2008 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Mouthwatering, amazingly rich, ripe, powerful, tangy with a citrus twist - loud, but I like it a lot

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• 2009 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Less acid than the 08, rounder, even riper, warm - very nice, but I can imagine this getting flabby with time

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• 1967 Domaine Chanson Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Fèves 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Metallic nose, some substance, certainly fresh and alive, nice, but not much more

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• 1962 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Teurons 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Broad, sweet fragrance, very rich and harmonious, goes a bit squishy with time in the glass

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• 1969 The Wine Society Beaune 1er Cru Cent-Vignes 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Much more youthful than the last two, bite, grip, funk, hints of red fruits, I love the energy here

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• 1970 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Theurons Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Another one with brown sugar sweetness at its core, mellow, intriguing, lovely

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• 1985 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Sheer beauty, soft, red fruited, the gentlest of textures, so alluring that it comes across as bigger than it really is

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• 1988 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Harder to appreciate after the perfect 85, this was much less distinct, tannin sticking out, and some oxidation which detracted from the whole - but still an attractive mature wine

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• 1990 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Amazingly youthful, gushing with young red fruit, beautiful

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• 1990 Albert Morot Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Floaty, dark red fruits, lots of substance here, and very engaging

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• 1990 Henri Germain et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  The initial impression is the tannin, but on the palate there's a sweetness which borders on voluptuous - it's lovely

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• 1988 J.M. Boillot Beaune 1er Cru Montrevenots 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  This too is tannic, but once again the fruit is vivid and raspberryish and the combination is very satisfying

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• 1988 Château Coutet Barsac 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Basically with a sauternes it comes down to: is it sweet? is it rich? is it fresh? and if it's yes to all three you have a winner. As here.

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