In the Name of Science

An eclectic bunch of wines that a small group of us tried accompanied by Delfina pizza.

• 2008 Coche-Dury Chardonnay Bourgogne

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Toasty nose. Bright citrus and good texture but too much oak for this level. Betrays its Meursault roots but a little steeply priced for what is in the bottle.

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• 2009 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Definitely has that glossy, ripe facade typical of 2009, but floral, fairly restrained citrus fruit and excellent underlying acidity and minerality. My favorite of the 3 white Burgundies.

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• 2005 Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Medium yellow. Enticingly complex nose that draws you in. Curiously, much less flavor despite a fairly full, ripe wine until one gets to the very end when it shows rising rock and some power. Not showing that much tonight, but I can see giving it the benefit of the doubt and thinking that we caught it at a muted, dumb stage. Could improve.

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• 2003 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune

  France, Alsace

  Medium yellow. Some mature Riesling aromas but tainted by mustiness that I was convinced represented low level TCA. The majority of tasters did not agree with this assessment though. Rich and a sense of ripe fruit and glyceral texture, but not nearly as pure and focused as the bottle I had last month. Very disappointing-is this the weirdness and bottle variation of 2003, or was this truly flawed? At any rate, not good.

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• 2005 Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Deep. Rugged nose of black fruit and some licorice. Dense, quite tannic, closed and remarkably powerful acids that almost bore right through the palate. More of a Pommard than Volnay impression. Three words of advice-hold, hold, hold. Then, when you're ready to open a bottle, wait even longer. Should be outstanding but lord knows when.

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• 2007 Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Much less saturated and lighter than the massive '05. In complete contrast, all Volnay on the nose with light strawberry fruit and soil. Light, bright fruit charged with beautiful acidity. Open and appealing with a few years of development in hand. My only gripe is some dilution and attenuation on the finish, but that is the downside of 2007 and all in all, very pretty. The antithesis of its '05 stablemate.

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• 2005 Edmond Cornu & Fils Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Valozières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru

  Moderate ruby depth. Closed nose. A round entry with blackberry and anise that quickly runs into a proverbial wall of tannin that seems as though it is capable of dislodging several teeth. Substantial for the appellation and exceptionally backward. Like the Bitouzet 2005, this one is not going to be a lot of fun for many years.

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• 2006 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello

  Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Rosso

  Medium red. Lots of VA and prune on the nose. Very ripe and exotic fruit admixed with anise and herbs. Shorter finish. Singular wine although not to my taste.

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• 2006 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Medium ruby. Bitter cherry and herbs. Absolutely mouthcoating, complete, medium weight, well balanced wine that is drinking really well now. In comparison to the Bea, much more classic and less exaggerated. I clearly preferred this and looking back, it was probably the best red of the evening (despite my allegiance to Burgundy!).

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• 2001 Arietta Red Wine H Block Hudson Vineyards

  USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros

  Even medium red with no lightening. Very minty with a dusting of herbs and a touch of volatility. Full and lush with some underlying wood. Excellent finish. We tasted this blind, and I was torn between thinking Italy and the Napa Valley, the former because of the VA and the latter due to the woody base and generous feel. Very good wine that is aging beautifully and should have another decade in front of it.

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• 2006 Ferrando Carema White Label (Etichetta Bianca)

  Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Carema

  Light to medium color, not completely clear. Light, earthy and herbal without particularly robust acidity and little tannin. Again, we tried this one blind, and the best I could do was southern French Carignane with some elements that reminded me of Pinot Noir and Gamay. I have found other Ferrando wines more enjoyable than this bottle.

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• 2009 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Oh my, the unabashedly pristine fruit is just to die for-peach and citrus topped off with honey. Moderately sweet but perfectly balanced by strong acidity, giving it great lightness and length. Truly amazing balance. Hard to resist now but one of those great sweet Loire Chenin Blancs that you know will still be going strong 15 years down the road. This took the cake as wine of the night for me.

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• 1990 Domaine Touchais Coteaux du Layon Réserve de nos Vignobles

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon

  Deep yellow/light gold. More obvious botrytis perfume than in the young Foreau with some quince and that unique aged Chenin wet wool quality. Fascinating twist of grapefruit along with the rest of the fruit, and then a bitter edge to the finish which detracts from the harmony of the wine. Sweeter and more mature than the Foreau for sure, but hardly a match for the beauty of that wine this evening. This was better 3 or 4 years ago.

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