Pinot and Chardonnay gathering at Harth Restaurant - 08 Rousseau CSJ & 06 Marcassins

Eight of us got together to drink Chardonnay and Pinot. We were situated at Harth’s semi-private room which was quite spacious and very comfortable. The last meal at Harth was hit or miss and I pointed it out to the staff and the execution was significantly better. All of the dishes complement the wines very well.

This event once again reaffirmed my opinion that the individual preference for domestic pinot vs Burgundy is the most subjective/divisive amongst all grape varietal comparisons. Hind sight we felt that we should have served the domestic pinots either in the first or the last flight as some of us felt the contrast was too strong. Despite varying preferences, we had plenty wines for everyone to enjoy.

• 2009 Kistler Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  A typical kistler profile of toasted sesame from oak, apple, lemon zest, lemon curd and nice mineral note. Mouth puckering acidity, concentrated fruits but the finish clips due to smoke/oak note. If you don’t like Kistler, you will surely not enjoy this. This wine screams Kistler.

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• 2002 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Subtle, understated or just dull? Fresh, mineral, only a slight hint of yellow fruits via lemon curd. Dense palate with bright acidity. It is a correct bottle but the nose is a bit dull lacking reasonable fruit expression. Highly recommend to serve alone in a dinner for two setting. Structured and austere style of CC.

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• 2006 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  I find most of the 06 white burgundies clumsy and dull lacking definition and structure but I have enjoyed a number of GC montrachets. This drinks like an excellent chevalier, very noble and delightful. Beautifully layered white fruits, still a hint of pear, subtle presence of mineral expression. Very fresh, decadent yet airy. Beautifully drinking in primary way.

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• 2009 Radio-Coteau Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  A bit spritzy, white fruits, apple and pear. Seems a bit simple compare to the others. A very good cali chardoony but nothing memorable.

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• 2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Precise nose, white flowers, pear, limestone and background beeswax. Perhaps it is a label bias but I always find a bit more fruits and a bit less precision in Fevre compare to Dauvissat or Raveneau. Excellent concentration, mineral expression, bright acidity and nice long finish. Although little tight, this is showing beautifully.

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• 1992 Louis Latour Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  The last bottle drank was very nice but this is dull and seems slightly off. Strong butterscotch note, rich but no fruits showing.

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• 1993 Dominique Laurent Clos de la Roche Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Initially thought slightly corked but others said very reductive, tough call. With time, a bit more noticeable TCA for me. The overall expression seems rustic.

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• 1996 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Fresh, vibrant and expressive nose of bright cherry fruits, perfectly ripe raspberry, mushroom , sous bois starting to emerge but not dominant and classic Vosne spice. Sweet silky palate, bright acidity and fully integrated tannins. Someone mentioned a bit simple fruit expression and I have to agree. Perfectly ripe fruits with complexity somewhere between GC and village which makes this a great example of a PC. Lovely hedonistic wine.

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• 1996 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

  Beef blood, beet, rhubarb a hint of sour cherry, shy red fruits and noticeable mint. This is a beast and still need at least ten more years. I believe Don and Mark mentioned shy nose but impressive palate and I agree. Beautifully layered but tight. More impressive for me than enjoyable.

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• 2006 Marcassin Pinot Noir Blue-Slide Ridge Vineyard

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Although I am not a big fan, I can appreciate the high alcohol cab or syrah based wines. Unfortunately when it comes to pinot, I just don’t care for high % alcohol. Artificial strawberry candy, jammy red fruits, coffee and mocha. It is served slightly too warm and alcohol is clearly showing. It is a very divisive wine. This is a correct bottle but most of us already know where we stand.

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• 2006 Marcassin Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Seems a bit fresher and structured. Blackberry jam, caramel and a bit of heat. Big scale wine but once again I am not a fan. At least half of the table loved it. This to me truly subjective. This is the wine that would make Antonio sweat.

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• 2006 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir Little Hill

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Seems softer and warmer than the Marcassins. Cherry fruits.

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• 2003 Lucien Le Moine Clos Saint-Denis 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

  A very good example of well-made burgundy from 2003 and there is nothing shy about this wine. Big, jammy, slightly overripe, dark fruit driven, expressive and bold wine. Once again, very subjective per your view on the 03 red burgundy.

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• 2003 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  My guess is that they tried to avoid the extreme ripe fruits of the 03. Not extremely ripe but not too complex and the fruit is not sweet. Good wine, perhaps show better alone over a dinner for two.

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• 2008 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  If you are a fan of Truchot or Bathod, you will love this wine. If you are a Rousseau fan, you will also love this wine. Rousseau spice, rose, delicate raspberry note, strawberry, sap, raw button mushroom and stem. Just beguiling nose and palate, seems so light, pretty and airy yet also intense and expressive. Another divisive wine that is the total antithesis of the Marcassins.

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The dinner lasted five hours which is becoming a norm. A lot of interesting discussions, different views but as usual A good time was had by all