A Little R&R--2008 Raveneau and Roulot

Surprise! Reds from Roulot (wouldn't have minded tasting some of the Meursaults).

Very promising sample of the '08s, properly backward in the case of the Premier Crus

• 2008 François Raveneau Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Ripe lemon with some wood toast. The ripest, simplest and most open of the 3 wines poured.

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• 2008 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Green glint. Floral. Tighter, tarter and more mineral. Lean and salty with a touch of wood at the end. Bracingly acidic finish-now you're talking! Nowhere near ready.

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• 2008 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Light yellow with some green. Herbal notes on nose and palate. Tart green apple, slightly fleshier than the Butteaux but no less acidity. Intense finish. Relatively undeveloped flavors. Clearly for the future.

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I had never had Roulot reds. They seemed like typical, minor Cote de Beaune wines, but for their lack of heft, they all had too much high char oak.

• 2008 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Medium color. Smoke and anise. All black fruit, some sap, but briary, tarry finish.

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• 2008 Domaine Roulot Monthélie

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Monthélie

  Paler than the Bourgogne. Pungent and slightly gamy. Light, focused and tannic with the same woodsmoke character right at the center of it carrying through to the finish. Good but a one note wine.

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• 2008 Domaine Roulot Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Rouge

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru

  Light color. Light weight. High acid, little fruit. Good start but then the char and the acidity take over. Lacks flesh and any sense of balance.

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