Burg Dinner, Mostly Bonnes Mares and Clos de Tart

Caliterra -Chicago IL
Tasted Wednesday, March 29, 2006 by Burgundy Al with 617 views

Introduction

Our Chicago Burgundy group (the Lieu-dit Cru) got together last night for a dinner focusing on Bonnes Mares, its neighbor, Clos de Tart, and some adjacent vineyards.

Flight 1 - Blind Whites (2 Notes)

  • 2000 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Tasted blind alongside the Leflaive 2000 Batard-Montrachet. Lush fruit and spice on nose. Palate showed lots of fat fruit with good mineral and acid backbone. Nice balance and finish, but perhaps the Batard in the next glass just showed a bit more of everything.

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  • 2000 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Tasted blind alongside Leflaive 2000 Puligny-Montrachet "Pucelles." Forward stone fruit-driven nose with good background spice. Excellent ripe peach flavors on palate, then some apple near long finish. Very surprised to see this as Batard, which I would have expected to be fatter and even more extroverted.

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Flight 2 - Something Out of the Ordinary (1 Note)

  • 1959 Château Drapier & Fils Bonnes Mares 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    I purchased this several years back at auction and knew nothing about it other than 1959 was a fine vintage. An expert told me that Drapier was a Beaune negociant who sold out to Bichot in the 1960’s. Fill was good, approximately 4 cm. This wine was the surprise of the night. OK, it only lasted 15-20 minutes but the wine showed bright red fruit with great earthy complexity. It was well balanced and integrated.

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Flight 3 - Nearby Vineyards (2 Notes)

Flight 4 - Bonnes Mares (4 Notes)

  • 1990 Joseph Drouhin Bonnes Mares 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Really wonderful balance of red fruit, some black fruit and great earthy, mushroomy flavors. Fruit is slightly smoky with great Chambolle spice. Tannins, acidity and fruit are in great balance. Good, elegant finish. General consensus for WOTN for current consumption.

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  • 2001 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Bonnes Mares 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Black fruit on nose and palate, not very accessible today, but with reasonably good fruit density. Good spice also comes through towards the middle and end. Backward for now, tannins and acidity are more front-and-center than the fruit or spice. If this is representative, I'd hold these until at least 2012, probably 2015. Several people thought this wine had the most long-term potential of our wines, but I’m not convinced it’s as good as some of the Clos de Tarts (below).

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  • 1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Bonnes Mares 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Red fruit with a hint of chocolate on nose with some oak. Red cherry and black cherry on palate, good concentration but surprisingly accessible for such a young Bonnes Mares. Not as backward or structured as I had expected.

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  • 1993 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    This showed black fruit aromatics to start, but seemingly with a muted palate. But the wine was corked in that it fell apart after 60 minutes.

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Flight 5 - Clos de Tart (3 Notes)

  • 1998 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

    Red fruit and good spice on nose. Flavor of strawberry on palate, seems somewhat shut down and austere for today. Moderate finish, starts to show some interesting spice. Better in 2015 or later. My long-term WOTN, but perhaps that's partly based on prior tastings over the past few years. Others just didn’t care for this wine at all.

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  • 1999 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

    Served alongside the newly released 2003 and the 1998. Alluring fruit and spice aromas. Perhaps tart and firm on palate...perhaps shutdown. Ok red fruit from start to middle, then more acid middle to finish. Good density, little pleasure tonight. Decanted 30-45 minutes, probably needed several hours.

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  • 2003 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

    Couldn't resist adding this to the lineup after just discussing this wine while in Burgundy (where I didn't get to try it). Lush, ripe aromas without coming across as over-ripe. Hedonistic flavors with good spice throughout. Plum, liqueur and coffee all come through. Big, dense and bold for now, but that will soften with a few years in bottle. I'm optimistic because of the great density here, but this will surely benefit from 10-20+ years in the back of the cellar.

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