Another Casual Burgundy Dinner

Oceanique - Evanston IL
Tasted Friday, January 20, 2006 by Burgundy Al with 534 views

Flight 1 - White Burgundy (3 Notes)

  • 1995 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Moderate fruit on nose and palate, but not the more classic lean style of fruit I expect from Chablis. Minerality and acidity give this wine very good energy and length, but I think the wine's intensity is good but not to my high Raveneau standard. Served alongside its 1992 counterpart, which I preferred tonight.

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  • 1992 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Nose showed ripe fruit and good floral character. Palate also fruit-driven, combined a bit of ripe peach then lemon zest toward the middle and end. Nice balance, just ok acidity. Didn't show as classic Chablis, and I'd be drinking this while the fruit is primary and acidity still energetic. I preferred this over its 1995 counterpart which was tasted alongside.

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  • 1998 Arnaud Ente Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Seemed prematurely old or heat damaged to me, others disagreed.

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Flight 2 - DRC Echezeaux (2 Notes)

  • 1988 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    This wine changed 3-4 times over the course of two hours in the glass. One thing that was constant was the persistent bright acidity, which at some points detracted from the flavors. The aroma was a bit musty at first, but that blew off quickly. We then had a nice smoky nose with a taste to match, with some good forest floor flavors and a hint of truffle. The fruit seemed to fade after 45 minutes, only to come back with some black pepper and spice. I probably wouldn't open another bottle for at least 5 or 10 more years.

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  • 2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    Starts with great aromatics - lots of clove, peppercorn, and cinnamon and dense fruit. Taste start similarly with black pepper and dense red fruit. Already well balanced, this showed a long finish that highlighted the Asian spice particularly well. Needs at least five more years. Three votes for WOTN and consensus #1.

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Flight 3 - Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru (3 Notes)

  • 1985 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    A lot of disagreement over this wine at dinner. This showed a classic aged Burgundy nose, dominated by a forest floor character. There was still a lot of smoky black fruit that great the wine an incredible length, if you could get past the barnyard. This Charmes was much better with meat, which brought out the richness and subtlety of the wine.

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  • 1989 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Really impressive alongside its 1985 counterpart. Rich fruit on nose and palate. Lots of oak more obvious on nose. Powerful black fruit nicely complemented by emerging secondary development, so I'd say this wine is just barely starting to enter its prime, much further behind most 1989s. Black fruit has a nice smoky character to it, then some good spice really comes through on long finish.

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  • 1993 Domaine Denis Mortet Chambertin 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

    Bright red & black fruit on nose showing lots of intense, dark spice. On palate, the same fruit seems to just be emerging from hibernation but is also incredibly intense and powerful. Certainly enough fruit, tannin and acidity to keep this going for decades to come, as it looks like Mortet 93 Chambertin is just starting to enter an interesting period. I wouldn't try it again until 2010 or 2015. 90 points for tonight, 93-94 for potential.

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