Vertical Series of Young Knoll Smaragd Gruner Kreutles

Nopa, San Francisco
Tasted Tuesday, October 2, 2012 by drwine2001 with 307 views

Flight 1 (4 Notes)

  • 2007 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kreutles

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Pungent citrus and a fascinating red berry component. A significant notch lighter in weight than either the '08 or '09 that followed. Marked by piquant, lively finishing acidity and a touch of soil. I particularly liked the zinginess of this; the back end almost made the tongue tingle.

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  • 2008 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kreutles

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Almost indescribably complex nose with much less fruit than any of the other wines, but herbs and who knows what else. Absolutely amazing feel-deep and spherical like a great Cote de Beaune Grand Cru without any impression of being ponderous. So much extract that the acidity is hidden but definitely there. Long, long, long chalky finish. Pretty monumental stuff that is already a delight to taste because of its impeccable balance.

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  • 2009 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kreutles

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Again, back to more citrus aromatics. Not that different in weight from the 2008, but obviously riper with a touch of alcohol sticking out and not nearly as successful melding of all of the elements. Still very good, but by far my least favorite of the 4 consecutive vintages.

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  • 2010 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kreutles

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Bright, pure orange roars from the glass. After the massive 2008 and 2009, this returns to the more discrete, elegant weight of the '07. Not surprisingly, simpler at this point than the wines with more age, but absolutely lovely drive, acidity and soil on the finish.

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Closing

How cool was it to see 4 vintages of this wine poured by the flight? Remarkable wines-grand in scale and having great fidelity to the grape, yet without the sometimes offputting greenness of Gruner. A real treat.

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