"Simple" Midweek Dinner (La Barca)

We had not gathered for an SMD for quite awhile. So, when HM pulled this one together to take advantage of a corkage-free month at our neighbourhood Italian joint (helmed by a 1 Michelin starred chef no less), Elsa and I jumped at the chance to swig some wine while catching up with good friends. BYO and Blind as usual, we had nice, interesting bottles as always. What was surprising though was the qualty of the food - I have never been too impressed with the fare served up at La Barca, but the chow on the night was actually pretty good indeed.

• 1993 Jean-Pierre Mugneret Nuits-Saint-Georges 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges

  This had held up really well for a 1993 village, and was drinking very pleasantly indeed. It had a beautiful nose, with deep meaty accents and slightly bloody notes shading into stony mineral and then subtle scents of black cherries and blueberries with quite a bit of underlying sweetness. A hint of slightly herby stems, black tea and a whiff of smokiness rounded the bouquet off. A very nice, subtly complex nose. The palate was showing remarkably well for what it is, with a bright freshness rippling through ripe flavours of dark cherries and berries, and a bit of haw flakes. A bit on the light side on the midpalate at first, it fleshed out quite nicely to show richer fruit lined with some spice in time. In classic NSG fashion, this was still quite muscular and well-structured, a touch rustic almost, especially in the minerally finish, which showed a bite of wet stone and metal to go along with some dark fruit and black tea notes that echoed what we picked up on the nose. Strangely enough, there was still a lick of sweet oak in there somewhere, but this came across more as a seasoning than a distraction. All in all, maybe not a great wine, but a certainly a very pleasant one - really tasty, and drinking exactly where you would want it to be.

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• 1990 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  This was very good. It did take awhile to get off the mark though, at least on the palate. The nose was very pretty from first pour, with a very ripe 1990 character to its sweet scents of slightly roasted cherries and strawberries, some dried rose petals and a toss of dried earth. Very attractive. The palate was rather less so initially. A bit fizzy and cola-ish at the start, it was only after an hour where it calmed down into a delicious freshness, with bright flavours of ripe cherry and strawberry that seemed to belie the heat of the vintage. On the midpalate, the red fruited notes were flecked with savoury earth and meat, more dried flowers and a touch of fruit tea at the finish. Great stuff. It did remain a bit spritzy throughout, but not quite enough to distract after the wine had a chance to clam down and take on some air. Imperfections apart though, it was such a yummy wine, and drinking really nicely at the moment as well.

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• 2002 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Tanbark Hill 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

  This was a very enjoyable Napa Cab at 10 years of age. It had a very Bordelais nose, with roasted capsicums and ripe cassis notes matched by more old-world aromas of toasted earth, dried herbs and touches of tobacco. Very nice though. The palate spoke a lot more of its Napa origins, with a very sappy, fleshy mouthful of yummy cherries and cassis. Nicely balanced, almost elegant, and yet still well structured with slightly powdery but very ripe tannins and plush acidity that pulled the wine into a finish full of ripe red fruit and a final curl of tobacco and earth. Not the most complex of wines at this stage, but it has developed quite nicely and was very enjoyable even on the night. I would easily give this another 4-5 years before trying again though.

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• 2000 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 92 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  This wine may have had the edge over the French bottles on show because it paired best with the Tuscan food on show. Nevertheless, it was a very good showing. The nose was rather interesing. It still smelt quite primary, with sweet cherries and berry aromas at the fore, some earth, a bit of meat, then rather Italinate notes of dried herb, hints of spice and dried flowers. Unfortunately, there were also rather more distrubing side-notes, with quite a bit sweet oak scents and a little cardboardy twist that raised the spectre of TCA. I cannot say that I altogether liked the way the bouquet came together. Thankfully, the palate showed no signs of fault at all. In fact, i thought it was quite delicious, showing fresh flavours of cherries and berries lined with some dusty earth and seasoned with touches of spice. I liked the way the fruit showed on this one, singing in a clear tenor voice - masculine, yet bright and pure. With time, the wine opened up into a more savoury base, showing meat and earth and some minerality, all lined with fresh, tomato-toned acidity and ripe tannins. This needs a bit more time in the bottle too, maybe just 2-3 years, but I do like what I tasted (weird nose apart). Unsurprisingly, it was the best pairing with our Bistecca Fiorentina and a couple of the other dishes.

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