Gevreys with friends

A dinner party with friends with only a modest interest in wine. I'd thought that there was sufficient variety in Gevrey not to need to go further afield, but actually the three mature reds were pretty close in style. And on this occasion the differences clashed rather than complemented I felt, with the freshness and fruitiness of the youngsters making the more mature wines taste tired. The whites were all stunning.

• 1999 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  Gorgeous, gorgeous, rich and grand - to the manner born

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• 2010 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Intense, powdery, fine essence of chardonnay fruit, mouthwateringly sharp - for all its youth highly enjoyable

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• 2008 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Finely oaked, deep, spicy, but focused, gorgeous

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• 1999 Domaine Maume Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Grippy, earthy, fresh, a touch of animal, bracing

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• 1999 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Warmer than the Maume, riper, perhaps a hint of oxidation, rich and gamey - more rustic than I remembered

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• 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echezeaux Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  After the two 1999 villages, this was not just fruitier and fresher, it had so much more dimension, thrilling in its breadth

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• 2005 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Not closed, but much more sedate than the preceding wines - smooth, ripe, quite oaky - classy could do with more bite. Obviously it's young, but hard to see into its future

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• 1997 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Perhaps my expectations undermined this. I was very conscious of some green in this. Gamey and animal, and not as sweet or pretty as past bottles. But round the table, this proved a favourite. [just seen my preceding note from July and am struck by how similar this one is]

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• 2010 Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin La Croix des Champs

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  A bit of a waste. It seemed too small after the other wines, for all its attractiveness

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• 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Uttterly wonderful. Similar taste profile to the Aux Echezeaux, but a fuller and smoother.

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• 1989 Château Coutet Barsac

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Deep gold, thick, sumptuous, with plenty of botrytis, fresh, lovely

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