Lunch at Dezato

Dezato, Jalan Telok
Tasted Friday, November 2, 2012 by Paul S with 276 views

Introduction

Lunch with William and Kelvin.

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 2010 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 91 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    This was very enjoyable - even more so than the last bottle I thought. It had a really nice nose for one so young, with bits of chalk and earth underlying sweet scents of peach and nectarines, some flowers, and just a drop of petrol. Again, I found the palate rather sweet for a Kabinett, with juicy flavours of peach and nectarine on the attack, but it was also beautifully balanced by bright, fresh acidity and flinty minerally that cut through the luscious stone-fruited attack to emerge in a superbly cut finish. In word, this was balanced, superbly s in fact. There was also a good sense of grip and extract at the back-end, where more citrus notes of sweet lemon and grapefruit played alongside a firm underlayer of chalky mineral. Still very young, but this was a nice refreshing drink on a warm day, and a lovely pairing with sashimi. With a few more years under its belt, it should get even better.

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  • 2004 Gerhard Markowitsch Pinot Noir Reserve 88 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Carnuntum

    The great variability on these bottles is really starting to grate on me - this was the poorest of the 5 or 6 I have had so far, showing as a fairly decent wine, and not much more. It was so very different from the last two bottles that I had, especially on the nose with its blast of wood spice and sweet oak notes, with whiffs of glycerol and varnish that almost obscured rich fruited aromas of plums and blackberries tossed with a touch of earth. With time, a very meaty component, which I kinda liked, emerge as well, but the nose was definitely not great. Thankfully, the palate showed rather more poise, with slightly sweet flavours of black cherries and berries opening up across the midpalate. The nice depth was was there, as was the balancing acidity, but so were the rather in-your-face oak notes and an unusually obvious stain of alcohol. It finished more poorly than I remembered, with a slight shrivel of drying tannins and wood. This was quite from unrecognisable from previous occasions, where the wines showed more like pretty good Burgs than anything else. This bottle was drinkable, but not great.

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