EN vertical with JB

The Medlar, London
Tasted Monday, January 28, 2013 by SimonG with 513 views

Introduction

A chance to taste verticals of EN's Manzanilla and Fino, with a few others thrown in for good measure, with JB. Fascinating as the wines were served single blind to see if there was an obvious aged character with the older bottlings. A resounding no. Huge thanks to JB for the invitation and for providing the wines. Can't remember a tasting dinner where the wines were of such a consistently high standard - a real embarrassment of riches. And then PD produced three bottles of Madeira served double blind. For someone of very limited experience with Madeira, a wonderful opportunity to try three wines, at least two of which I'm never likely to see again. Contemplative, sensory and a real privilege. Good also to meet JH for the first time.

Flight 1 - Buffalo olives, aged Iberico ham, salted almonds (1 Note)

  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Amontillado 5 "NPI" 92 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Very rich, caramel laden nose. A touch of toasted nut. Lots of bite on the attack, clealy dry and rich through the mid palate, a touch of heat towards the end of the mid-palate and then fresh, and very long on the finish - the top notes and bottom notes especially linger long after the middle has faded. Quite intense. ****

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Flight 2 - Scallop sashimi with oyster vinaigrette, ginger, cucumber and tobiko (4 Notes)

32 and 8 tasted youngest and freshest. 16 in the middle and 22 least so, though it was very saline on the finish.

Flight 3 - Cornish gurnard with palourde clams, baby squid, fennel, salted almonds, gremolata and tapenade (4 Notes)

7 appeared the most complete and harmonious. 18 was rejected after bottling and replaced with another wine, so this was one of the few pre18 18s in existence. My order of preference 7,35,27, (18)

Flight 4 - Filet and cheek of middle white pork with boudin noir, chestnuts, sprouts, sage and squash (2 Notes)

Flight 5 (1 Note)

Gruyere de grade 24 months from BA and Comte 36months from Beillevaire

  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Palo Cortado 6 "Bota Punta" 93 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Montilla-Moriles

    Deep, slightly dull amber. Caramel with a nicely citrus lift on the nose. Again, good bite. Nicely long. Seems to combine a saline length with a nuttiness and a roundness with bite. An interesting contrast between rich, rounded and compex on the nose and a real bite on the palate. Not so keen, but a good **** if it's your thing.

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Flight 6 (3 Notes)

  • 1993 Barbeito Madeira Malvazia Cask Colheita - Cask 3a 93 Points

    Portugal, Madeira

    Single blind. Brown Demerara sugar nose. A sense of sweetness. Very sweet on the attack, rich through the mid palate and then more focus on the finish. Complex. ****

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  • 1910 Cossart Gordon & Co. Madeira Bual 95 Points

    Portugal, Madeira

    Double blind. More mute and savoury on the nose than the previous wine.a little drier and more concentrated. Some vibrancy still. Rich and long and concentrated. Still vital. Lovely. Very satisfying. *****

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  • NV Henriques & Henriques Madeira Grand Old Bual c1800 95 Points

    Portugal, Madeira

    Double blind. Provenance constrained to latest C18 to earliest C19. Slightly darker and more intense than the (Cossart 1910). Rich, dry seeming. Very rich and concentrated. Long and intense. Just so mellow, rich, but drying and with a lifting bite. A little less fresh and vibrant than (Cossart 1910) but more of a brooding intensity. One wouldn't guess there's a century between them. A one-off experience. *****

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Closing

Again, huge thanks to JB and PD for their generosity. The Medlar was on excellent form. Quite simply the best meal I've had there with all the courses on top form and tremendous matches for the wines. Bravo!

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