EN vertical with JB

The Medlar, London
Tasted Monday, January 28, 2013 by SimonG with 633 views

Introduction

A chance to taste verticals of EN's Manzanilla and Fino, with a few others thrown in for good measure, with JB. Fascinating as the wines were served single blind to see if there was an obvious aged character with the older bottlings. A resounding no. Huge thanks to JB for the invitation and for providing the wines. Can't remember a tasting dinner where the wines were of such a consistently high standard - a real embarrassment of riches. And then PD produced three bottles of Madeira served double blind. For someone of very limited experience with Madeira, a wonderful opportunity to try three wines, at least two of which I'm never likely to see again. Contemplative, sensory and a real privilege. Good also to meet JH for the first time.

Flight 1 - Buffalo olives, aged Iberico ham, salted almonds (1 Note)

  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Amontillado 5 "NPI" 92 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Very rich, caramel laden nose. A touch of toasted nut. Lots of bite on the attack, clealy dry and rich through the mid palate, a touch of heat towards the end of the mid-palate and then fresh, and very long on the finish - the top notes and bottom notes especially linger long after the middle has faded. Quite intense. ****

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Flight 2 - Scallop sashimi with oyster vinaigrette, ginger, cucumber and tobiko (4 Notes)

32 and 8 tasted youngest and freshest. 16 in the middle and 22 least so, though it was very saline on the finish.

  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla 32 "Navazos" 94 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Single blind. Mid gold. Moderate intensity, there's an applet acidity to the oxidation here. Quite fresh on the attack but very rounded through the core. Works well with food. Lots of grip and intensity and length with air. More salinity. ****1/2

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla 16 "Navazos" 93 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Single blind. Dark gold. Deeper tones on the nose. Richer and fuller and a little more harmonious than (32). More oxidative bite here. Again gets mor saline with air. Excellent but (32) a touch more harmonious. ****

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla 22 "Navazos" 92 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Single blind. Very dark gold. A little more lifted with a slightly herbal element on the nose, a hint of bruised apple. Some bite. Fresher than the nose suggests. He fulle and heaviest of the flight I think. ****

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla 8 "Las Cañas" 94 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Single blind. Mid gold. A little more volatile on the nose. Some bruised apple too. Seems quite young on the palate. Good bite and freshness. Lovely. Again, good with the food. ****1/2

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Flight 3 - Cornish gurnard with palourde clams, baby squid, fennel, salted almonds, gremolata and tapenade (4 Notes)

7 appeared the most complete and harmonious. 18 was rejected after bottling and replaced with another wine, so this was one of the few pre18 18s in existence. My order of preference 7,35,27, (18)

  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Fino 7 "Macharnudo Alto" 94 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Single blind. Mid gold. Initially quite subdued on the nose, then quite floral with a slightly herby and apple lift. Fresh, very rounded and complete. Long and fresh. Plenty of bite in the top notes. Harmonious and complete.

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Fino Nº 18 (rejected precursor) 90 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    The initial No 18 bottling that was never released having been rejected after bottling and replaced with what was then released as No18. Single blind. Ever so slightly fuller gold. Still nicely apple/herby. A bit of prickle on the attack and then a flatter, creamy finish. Lacks some bite and lift in the company. ***1/2

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Fino 35 "Macharnudo Alto" 94 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Single blind. Again, mid gold. Floral and apple scented. Almost a hint of lavender upfront before it blows off. Again nice bite, more freshness here. Long and tangy. Very good indeed. ****1/2

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Fino 27 "Macharnudo Alto" 94 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Single blind. Mid gold again. Herby apple again. Fresh. More silky like the first one (7) initially. Long and a bit richer on the finish. Lovely. ****1/2

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Flight 4 - Filet and cheek of middle white pork with boudin noir, chestnuts, sprouts, sage and squash (2 Notes)

  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada 30 1/15 95 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Single blind. Fuller colour than the finos. This one slightly deeper full gold than (10). Fresher, more floral, lavender scented. Long. Quite nutty. Really lovely. Wonderfully complex. Fantastic match with the food. *****

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada 10 "1/15" 93 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    Single blind. Ever so slightly cloudy. A bit muddier on the nose with caramel and a sense of richness. A bit shorter and flatter on the finish. Similar attack. Very good but not in the same class on this showing as (30). ****

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

Gruyere de grade 24 months from BA and Comte 36months from Beillevaire

  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Palo Cortado 6 "Bota Punta" 93 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Montilla-Moriles

    Deep, slightly dull amber. Caramel with a nicely citrus lift on the nose. Again, good bite. Nicely long. Seems to combine a saline length with a nuttiness and a roundness with bite. An interesting contrast between rich, rounded and compex on the nose and a real bite on the palate. Not so keen, but a good **** if it's your thing.

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Flight 6 (3 Notes)

  • 1993 Barbeito Madeira Malvazia Cask Colheita - Cask 3a 93 Points

    Portugal, Madeira

    Single blind. Brown Demerara sugar nose. A sense of sweetness. Very sweet on the attack, rich through the mid palate and then more focus on the finish. Complex. ****

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  • 1910 Cossart Gordon & Co. Madeira Bual 95 Points

    Portugal, Madeira

    Double blind. More mute and savoury on the nose than the previous wine.a little drier and more concentrated. Some vibrancy still. Rich and long and concentrated. Still vital. Lovely. Very satisfying. *****

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  • NV Henriques & Henriques Madeira Grand Old Bual c1800 95 Points

    Portugal, Madeira

    Double blind. Provenance constrained to latest C18 to earliest C19. Slightly darker and more intense than the (Cossart 1910). Rich, dry seeming. Very rich and concentrated. Long and intense. Just so mellow, rich, but drying and with a lifting bite. A little less fresh and vibrant than (Cossart 1910) but more of a brooding intensity. One wouldn't guess there's a century between them. A one-off experience. *****

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Closing

Again, huge thanks to JB and PD for their generosity. The Medlar was on excellent form. Quite simply the best meal I've had there with all the courses on top form and tremendous matches for the wines. Bravo!

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