Cityzen gathering – no great wines only great bottles

Cityzen, Washington DC
Tasted Thursday, February 7, 2013 by dcwino with 717 views

Introduction

The barolo King, Tom M was in town and six of us got together to drink some Burgundies and Barolis. Although we had only one corked bottle, my 99 Vogue Musigny, we also had a pair of champagnes that definitely underperformed. The 78 Rionda showed beautifully but not a 100 point experience for me. A great reminder that there are no great wines only great bottles. Nevertheless we had some memorable wines, ironically including the 78 Rionda. A minor complain, the sommelier served the 96 Barolis as the last flight which made it difficult to concentrate for me.

Flight 1 - The 96 Krug vs Salon (2 Notes)

  • 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Slightly more amber than expected and the flavor profile agrees. With the perfect provenance and the last bottle from the batch was definitely livelier. Brioche, honey and cupper. Medium mousse, a hint of oxidative note and a bit short finish. Had a bottle that was flirting with the perfect only a week ago. Still enjoyable.

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  • 1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    Not a Champagne day when neither the 96 Krug nor Salon are showing well. Clear and precise but something is not quite right. The nose is ever so slightly muted. Some thought closed. Not bad but not a representative bottle.

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Flight 2 - A mature white Burgundy (1 Note)

  • 1983 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

    The sommelier thought the wine was past its prime but Barry and I thought still sound. Strong botrytis note which one expects from the 83, this then becomes petrol, also honey and lemon. Medium concentration, oily and slightly lacking acidity. A bit simple in fruit expression and lacking the precision but still interesting and enjoyable.

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Flight 3 - A pair of the 78 Barolis (2 Notes)

Another great showing of the 78 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis

  • 1978 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 96 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    No great wines, only great bottles but my impression is identical to the last bottle drank two years ago. This is a very youthful wine also the fruit expression is very clean. Lots of red fruits, kirsch, tar and earth. Perhaps the identical profile as the last bottle but my rating is a couple points higher. Is this bottle better? Not so sure but 96 pts drinking experience. Impressive and extremely enjoyable.

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  • 1978 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 85 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Another example of no great wines as a bottle drank a year ago was very nice. This has a very strong sweaty sox nose. Once that blew off, void of fruits, only earth and iron. A bit off based on the last bottle.

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Flight 4 - Red burgs (4 Notes)

Both the 93 Leroy and the Arnoux were great. The 93 Lafarge suffered in comparison. The Vogue was terribly corked. Ces't la vie!

  • 1993 Domaine Leroy Corton-Renardes 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    Leroy always taste Leroy and this is no exception. Slightly reduced sweet and sour red fruits, soy, sous bois, Asian spices, light caramel, tea, tomato stew and cedar. Fully matured, sweet fruits, bright acidity and fully integrated tannins. There is a hint of earthiness and a bit coarse fruit that said Corton. Fully matured but enough fruit concentration to last for another three decades. Very enjoyable in very Leroy way.

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  • 1993 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Romanée St. Vivant 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

    The fruit expression is a bit darker than the Leroy. Black fruits, blackberries, blackberry jelly, spicy, clove and earth. Silky, delicate yet intense youthful palate. Although drinking beautifully now, it will improve a bit more. Serious yet lovely wine.

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  • 1993 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    This is a rustic style of Volnay that some folks love. The fruit is a bit muted, cedar, strong mineral presence and earth. A bit rustic palate. Serving next to the Leroy and Arnoux didn’t help.

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  • 1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

    Terribly corked but I can see this being great.

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Flight 5 - 78 Giacosa Rionda (1 Note)

  • 1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Collina Rionda 96 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    I am definitely a label whore and I was hoping that I would rate this 100 or at least 99. I had a monumental bottle from the same source in 2008 that I rated 99+. Although this was an exceptional wine, it wasn’t quite like the other bottle. Dry cherries, soy, balsamico, iron, rose, tar and earth. The palate is not as energetic, soft, sweet fruits and still a hint of dry tannins. Was it the balsamico based sauce? Not sure. This is an exceptional wine but I ever so slightly preferred the 93 Arnoux RSV as my WOTN. No perfect wines, only perfect bottles. I am not a Barolo expert but my guess is that your chance of having a perfect bottle of the 78 Rionda riserva is 50/50.

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Flight 6 - Younger barolis, relatively speaking of course (3 Notes)

Although I thought these wines were exceptional, I was still trying to love the 78 Rionda more which was not fair to the wines. There was also a Keller TBA which was wonderful.

  • 1988 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    This seems a bit softer than the 90 I had a few months back. I am also having a difficulty focusing as I wanted to spend more time with the Burgs and the Giacosa. Black fruits, tar, iron and a hint of dry fruits. Medium concentration, sweet dark fruits and nicely integrated tannins. Very enjoyable wine.

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  • 1996 Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Very youthful nose of black fruits, black cherries, dry cherries, cedar and earth. Excellent concentration. Definitely an excellent wine with a great potential but I can’t focus.

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  • 1996 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Black fruits, tar, dry cherries, a hint of anise and earth. Another wine that is still very youthful showing a great potential.

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Closing

It is always fun to share the wines with the Baltimoreans and the great time was had by all.

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